DIY Remove a GTR Transmission

[mwracing]

I have a hoist so these instructions follow that effect.


Sorry no pictures thou I will try to dig some up in key points off the internet later.

And do not blame me for following these directions if you cause any harm to you, your friends, or your vehicle.


This is all from Memory but it was last friday, so should be good to go.




Step One, Disconnect Battery.

Go inside your car, disconnect your shifter knob, and leather boot.

For a GTR, pry back the rubber seal, and use a snapring plyers to remove the shifter completely. Saves you alot of alignment later on.

Clear the area.

Prepare your tools and a couple friends.



Unbolt the Slave Cylinder from the Tranny. Should be 2 bolts 12MM.

Unbolt the Front Driveshaft near diff. Use 2 12mm wrenches to break Nut/bolt. Remove all 4 and keep all your bolts well organized. Let the Driveshaft Dangle a little.

Now you can take your Slave cylinder up and sort of tuck it near the brake lines.

With Both of those out of the way, Now grab a Stubby 14mm Ratcheting Wrench, and start to unbolt the starter. Also unclip the single wire from the starter, and use a 12mm to remove the Lead Power wire to the Starter. (this is where the Battery disconnect is important. you will get a large shock if you didnt do it)

Now sorta Tuck the starter up and out of the way, you dont need to remove it.

Now walk to the back of the tranny. Unbolt the rear driveshaft. about 2-3 inches behind the tranny there are 4 large nut/bolts. i think 17mm.

use 2 17mm wrenches, Ratcheting wrenches do not fit.

The next part can get messy quick.
Get a 5/8 hose, and plug one end of it then,
Use a 17mm wrench and disconnect the Fluid line in the back of tranny.
Quickly after it breaks loose and starts ozzing all the fluid, shove the 5/8's hose over it, done. Stops leaking. Minor leak from tranny but over a liter if you dont plug the line.

once that is done, walk farther back, and unbolt the two bolts that house the driveshaft loop bushing/bearing. let that dangle aswell.

Now walk to downpipe, and remove it. single or twin, just remove it.


Now start upbolting the transmission, all are 14mm Bolts, one is a Nut/bolt combo. you can do all of them, but the top two are very hard to reach.

So after you got all but the top two done, remove the 4 bolts to the Transmission Crossmember. your tranny should dangle downwards 2-3 inches.
Go to the Slave Side, slide out the Front driveshaft from the splines and reach upwards and disconnect the Two Wiring Clips that lead to engine Harness. make sure the wires leading to Engine are free and clear of all hangers and holding clips and not still confined to the tranny.


With the tranny facing downwards a bit, you can see the two top bolts.

Use about 24-30 inches worth of extensions with a swivel joint right before the 14mm socket.

Bang off the top last two, ( the top right one also holds the tranny vent hoses bracket remember to put that back on )

And Grab your friends. We did not have a tranny jack to use, So 3 people made it more comfortable to life/move/drop.

Support the rear side of the tranny, and wiggle it free from the Engine. They are still somewhat supported by the dowle pins. Once they break free, HOLD ON. (having the shifter removed makes this step alot easier)

Wiggle the tranny back a few inches till it completely seperates, and slowly drop it to the ground. Whip off the sweat on your forhead, and inspect things.

Some people like to replace the Fork Pivot bolt, I suggest the Throw out bearing aswell if it didnt come in your clutch kit.

So now, Unbolt the pressure plate, Where a mask, the clutch dust isnt good to breath in.
remove the clutch disc, and unbolt the 6 Flywheel bolts from the Engine.


If you are using a clutch kit, without replacing the flywheel. get it machined.

now, bolt on the new machined/new Flywheel 105-115 ft/lbs.

put the clutch plate back in, use an alignment tool. 24 tooth spline, same as KA24.

Bolt on the Pressure plate with Alignment tool perfectly centered.

remove the alignment tool, your done with it now.

put a little grease in the input shaft hole in the crank, some on the face of the fork pivot bolt, and some on the splines of the clutch disc. JUST A LITTLE and only in the groove.

Grab your friends again, lift it up, make the tranny align into the center of the clutch disc, wiggle a bit, and it should slide right in, keep pushing until the transmission fits into the dowle pin grooves. and Start a few threads, especially the Nut/bolt one, you can get that fairly snug before you let go.


And reverse the procedure for everything else.

3-5 hours total with all parts awaiting for swap.

[NismoS-tune]

good write up. Took me the whole weekend with a bit of help, no hoist...

[bignate]

its actually not a bad job with a hoist and air tools.

[Nathyne]

This guide is great! i am pulling my first transmission now but i had a question.

I read in the other thread that they jacked up the front of the engine to relieve some of the force on the crankshaft and to make it easier to line the transmission up i was wondering if this was a concern at all.

I will take a few pics as i'm doing it aswell and post them up.

front driveshaft

be careful with these bolts i ended up rounding one... oops


rear driveshaft


wrench you need to get that damn starter top bolt


I didn't take any of me doing it a little hard when you're doing it by yourself. I'll be taking out the transmission tomorrow and i'll post some pics of that aswell

Anyone have opinions on jacking the front of the engine up?

[Shane_Sawatzki]

just wanted to add an easier way of getting the top starter bolt, remove the battery and use a 3 foot extension with a swivle socket, works like a charm