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first off here's the things you will need to change.
1. oilpan
2. transmission/slave cylinder
3. driveshaft
4. pinion yoke
5. trans crossmember
6. front axles
7. attessa pump and system
things not needed to be addressed or not really a walkthrough.
ecu (awd is fine)
wiring (just make sure your reverse sensor on the trans is wired up)
speedo (rb20 trans works perfect. rb25 has to be modded from electronic-cable.
for rb25 electronic-cable you need to buy this assembly (part number 3270202G17)
then pull off the rb25 gear off the electric assembly and use a 10mm drill bit to drill the center.
then slide it on the new assembly (after removing the old one of course) and use some glue to secure it.
1. starting with oil pan you can either mod your aluminum awd pan to be without the huge front differential case or just pull the axles and diff out and leave it as is.
or you can buy an rb oil pan. rb25 or 20 and modify it to work.
the differential does not share your engine oil so drain that nasty smelly gear oil out of there.
2. for the transmission its fairly simple. use an rb20 rwd trans or if you want it handle alot of power go rb25. you need the rubber mount for whichever trans you choose.
for the rb20 transmission your gonna need the rb20 slave cylinder. for rb25 transmission the awd slave cylinder works perfect.
3. now with driveshaft the awd one is useless. try and sell it or take it for steel scrap.
you need the gts-t driveshaft. (rb20 rwd) and it has to be a complete driveshaft.
the gtr and gts-4 have the gts-t's same mount to bolt up the gts-t's driveshaft. the steady bearing mount used for the gts-4/gtr driveshaft is no longer used. (the one you need it farther down the trans tunnel)
(this info is for rb25 trans only) when using a rb25 trans you will need to use a z32 TT yoke.
simply buy a z32 front driveshaft piece and cut the yoke off and weld it where the rb20 one was on the gts-t driveshaft.
the longer driveshaft is the gts-t one. the other is the z32tt one needed for rb25 trans
4. the pinion yoke. if you dont know what this is it bolts to the pinion gear on the front of the differential. it also gets bolted to the back of the drivshaft.
this HAS to be changed. i know for sure that z32 pinion yoke is perfect. i would assume gts-t one would too. maybe even s13. this has yet to be proven. to remove it you simply have to remove the decent size nut in the middle of it and use a pulley puller to remove it. ( i haz. you may borrow yes)
after its out gear oil will go everywhere! it is recommended to have a catch basin below to avoid that awesome gear oil everywhere.
put the new yoke on and start tightening it. this is very tricky to get right! lock your ebrake and turn it UNTIL it stops wobbling up and down. keep shaking it every little pull and try to hear/feel it clunking up and down. once you can not feel it doing that make sure you can turn the wheels easy with it after. if it has huge resistance you overtightened it. do NOT over tighten it or your pinion bearings will be ruined.
make sure to add gear oil to your diff now that you lost a little bit of it. pictures below
finished product
5. the crossmember is fairly straight forward. you use the awd one with the mounts unbolted from the middle.
next step is to weld 2 peices of 1.5" steel square tubing on it. like pictured below.
next drill 2 holes on the top tube to match your rubber trans mount. also pictured
6. front axle removal/mod. now this is a key step to save your front wheel bearings.
your gonna have to butcher your awd axles whether you want to or not. or trade a buddy that has busted ones and he can have your good ones if they are good.
they start out looking like this once removed
you have to tear the outer boot off. and i used a zip disk and kept cutting the bearing holder out untill i got them to look like this after (seen standing up) very messy work.
you have to bolt these on to keep your bearings intact. make sure you saved your hardware to bolt them on. should fit exactly the same. washer-nut-rubber bushing-lock washer-pin. they are 3/16 cotter pins if you broke yours getting them off.
what they look like installed.
7. now the attessa lines are gonna be in your way. there is one under the driveshaft that needs to go. it went into the back of the awd trans to activate the awd system. just snap the bugger off wiggle it back and forth and itll break. (it should have drained when you removed the trans) or do it properly and remove EVERY attessa line.
if i remember right that line is bolted to where you gotta bolt the driveshaft steady bearing. that mount for this line has to go. you need the steady bearing to be bolted all the way up.
either to remove the attessa pump and reservoir is up to you. in order to remove it the subframe has to come out. simplest way is to reach up (its above the diff like pictured below) and just unplug the electrical lines so it doesnt pump dry and be the most irritating sound ever.
pictured on top. the 2 round looking things are it.
and what it looks like removed.
if you are going with an entire different rb motor. ex: gts-t rb20 into gts-4. or rb20 into gtr.
you will need rb26 motor mounts and the aluminum brackets. they look like this
if you have any questions please ask away. i did this walkthrough for a friend but i have had others pm me and ask how to do this aswell.
1. oilpan
2. transmission/slave cylinder
3. driveshaft
4. pinion yoke
5. trans crossmember
6. front axles
7. attessa pump and system
things not needed to be addressed or not really a walkthrough.
ecu (awd is fine)
wiring (just make sure your reverse sensor on the trans is wired up)
speedo (rb20 trans works perfect. rb25 has to be modded from electronic-cable.
for rb25 electronic-cable you need to buy this assembly (part number 3270202G17)
then pull off the rb25 gear off the electric assembly and use a 10mm drill bit to drill the center.
then slide it on the new assembly (after removing the old one of course) and use some glue to secure it.
1. starting with oil pan you can either mod your aluminum awd pan to be without the huge front differential case or just pull the axles and diff out and leave it as is.
or you can buy an rb oil pan. rb25 or 20 and modify it to work.
the differential does not share your engine oil so drain that nasty smelly gear oil out of there.
2. for the transmission its fairly simple. use an rb20 rwd trans or if you want it handle alot of power go rb25. you need the rubber mount for whichever trans you choose.
for the rb20 transmission your gonna need the rb20 slave cylinder. for rb25 transmission the awd slave cylinder works perfect.
3. now with driveshaft the awd one is useless. try and sell it or take it for steel scrap.
you need the gts-t driveshaft. (rb20 rwd) and it has to be a complete driveshaft.
the gtr and gts-4 have the gts-t's same mount to bolt up the gts-t's driveshaft. the steady bearing mount used for the gts-4/gtr driveshaft is no longer used. (the one you need it farther down the trans tunnel)
(this info is for rb25 trans only) when using a rb25 trans you will need to use a z32 TT yoke.
simply buy a z32 front driveshaft piece and cut the yoke off and weld it where the rb20 one was on the gts-t driveshaft.
the longer driveshaft is the gts-t one. the other is the z32tt one needed for rb25 trans
4. the pinion yoke. if you dont know what this is it bolts to the pinion gear on the front of the differential. it also gets bolted to the back of the drivshaft.
this HAS to be changed. i know for sure that z32 pinion yoke is perfect. i would assume gts-t one would too. maybe even s13. this has yet to be proven. to remove it you simply have to remove the decent size nut in the middle of it and use a pulley puller to remove it. ( i haz. you may borrow yes)
after its out gear oil will go everywhere! it is recommended to have a catch basin below to avoid that awesome gear oil everywhere.
put the new yoke on and start tightening it. this is very tricky to get right! lock your ebrake and turn it UNTIL it stops wobbling up and down. keep shaking it every little pull and try to hear/feel it clunking up and down. once you can not feel it doing that make sure you can turn the wheels easy with it after. if it has huge resistance you overtightened it. do NOT over tighten it or your pinion bearings will be ruined.
make sure to add gear oil to your diff now that you lost a little bit of it. pictures below
finished product
5. the crossmember is fairly straight forward. you use the awd one with the mounts unbolted from the middle.
next step is to weld 2 peices of 1.5" steel square tubing on it. like pictured below.
next drill 2 holes on the top tube to match your rubber trans mount. also pictured
6. front axle removal/mod. now this is a key step to save your front wheel bearings.
your gonna have to butcher your awd axles whether you want to or not. or trade a buddy that has busted ones and he can have your good ones if they are good.
they start out looking like this once removed
you have to tear the outer boot off. and i used a zip disk and kept cutting the bearing holder out untill i got them to look like this after (seen standing up) very messy work.
you have to bolt these on to keep your bearings intact. make sure you saved your hardware to bolt them on. should fit exactly the same. washer-nut-rubber bushing-lock washer-pin. they are 3/16 cotter pins if you broke yours getting them off.
what they look like installed.
7. now the attessa lines are gonna be in your way. there is one under the driveshaft that needs to go. it went into the back of the awd trans to activate the awd system. just snap the bugger off wiggle it back and forth and itll break. (it should have drained when you removed the trans) or do it properly and remove EVERY attessa line.
if i remember right that line is bolted to where you gotta bolt the driveshaft steady bearing. that mount for this line has to go. you need the steady bearing to be bolted all the way up.
either to remove the attessa pump and reservoir is up to you. in order to remove it the subframe has to come out. simplest way is to reach up (its above the diff like pictured below) and just unplug the electrical lines so it doesnt pump dry and be the most irritating sound ever.
pictured on top. the 2 round looking things are it.
and what it looks like removed.
if you are going with an entire different rb motor. ex: gts-t rb20 into gts-4. or rb20 into gtr.
you will need rb26 motor mounts and the aluminum brackets. they look like this
if you have any questions please ask away. i did this walkthrough for a friend but i have had others pm me and ask how to do this aswell.
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