The most competitive R compounds are Hoosier A6/R6, Kumho V710, Hankook Z214 and the BFG R1. They are all 40 tread wear. The R1 seems to have the best size selection and a good price point. Most of the guys at the track swear by Hoosier and I am considering them for my next set. I run Hankook Z214 right now and I like them alot but they really lack sizes in 18". You would not want to run any of these on the street as you would destroy them fast, especially with negative camber and toe out.
The NT01, R888, and A048 do not have the same grip level as the tires mentioned above, although the A048 is now a 60 tread wear instead of 100. You can get away with drivng these back and forth to the track, but daily driving will wear them out fast.
You can not compare Extreme Performance tires (140-200 treadwear) to R comp's (40 to 100 tread wear). They are not even close to having equivalent performance.
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Haha very true.. One day! What rims are you running that are 16 lbs? That's a great weight for such a sized rim!Originally posted by NismoS-tune View PostI had heard that some R comps were overrated but not to the point hardcore street tires like RE11s are as good. This is my next set anyways. As for stock rim weight of 16, that's fine but it's better when you have 18x9.5 that weight 16 pounds and look nice
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Yea, I was looking at the sizes avail. in the RSR 595s. Like I said, good pricing but very limited sizing. I would really want a 245 or 255 50 series 16" tire but not a whole lot of man. make that size. There are some full-on race tires in that size but I want to drive that on the street.Originally posted by nelsonmxmarc View PostDo you mean in the federal range of tires?
These are some i could find in our tire size that are imo as good if not better than some overrated R compounds;
RT615k's
Z1's
RE-11's
Hoosier make some R compounds in that size too i believe! There are options! And the GTR rim size, and general rim is GREAT because they're only 16 lbs each..
I have yet to experience my Sumitomo's in warm weather so I might be pleasantly surprized in them. HTR-Z with a 180 AA/A tread rating, should be grippy enough, just hoping the latteral sidewall integrity is good enough. They really hooked well in a straight line though (see sig.).
Jon.
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I had heard that some R comps were overrated but not to the point hardcore street tires like RE11s are as good. This is my next set anyways. As for stock rim weight of 16, that's fine but it's better when you have 18x9.5 that weight 16 pounds and look nice
Originally posted by nelsonmxmarc View PostDo you mean in the federal range of tires?
These are some i could find in our tire size that are imo as good if not better than some overrated R compounds;
RT615k's
Z1's
RE-11's
Hoosier make some R compounds in that size too i believe! There are options! And the GTR rim size, and general rim is GREAT because they're only 16 lbs each..
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Do you mean in the federal range of tires?Good pricing, lousy tire size avail., I'm not into the "trendy" tire sizing that is going on these days. Hell, there isn't even a stock GTR 16" tire replacement size.........lame.
These are some i could find in our tire size that are imo as good if not better than some overrated R compounds;
RT615k's
Z1's
RE-11's
Hoosier make some R compounds in that size too i believe! There are options! And the GTR rim size, and general rim is GREAT because they're only 16 lbs each..Last edited by nelsonmxmarc; 02-17-2011, 11:35 PM.
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The truth..Originally posted by support@feastauto View PostThe Super Steel 595's are rock hard and I could see them being noisy as heck. Good for drift use and thats about it.
The absolute worst tires, along with the Ziex 912's. Super steels are hard as a rock, tons of flex and take forever to warm up.. Only upside is they're quite light..
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The Super Steel 595's are rock hard and I could see them being noisy as heck. Good for drift use and thats about it.Originally posted by Dragon Humper View PostThe tread looks like it would be quieter than other federals with a similar tread pattern, I hated them, noisy as hell.
Good pricing, lousy tire size avail., I'm not into the "trendy" tire sizing that is going on these days. Hell, there isn't even a stock GTR 16" tire replacement size.........lame.
Jon.
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The tread looks like it would be quieter than other federals with a similar tread pattern, I hated them, noisy as hell.
Good pricing, lousy tire size avail., I'm not into the "trendy" tire sizing that is going on these days. Hell, there isn't even a stock GTR 16" tire replacement size.........lame.
Jon.Last edited by Dragon Humper; 02-17-2011, 08:19 PM.
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18x9! My memory must be failing....Originally posted by Super_Dude View PostR34 gtr wheels are 18x9 not 18x10
Nitto is owned by toyo
nt05=r1r
nt01=r888
Same compounds but nitto uses a tread pattern that is cheaper to produce and thus a worse tire overall.
As for R comps it really depends how much life/grip your looking for
wanna clean house and go threw a few sets a season? Go with 275/35 hankook z214 super soft compounds.
Wanna be go a bit faster and last the whole season with an affordable tire? Go with 245/40 nt01's
There are tons of tires in between these to suit your needs. Easiest thing to do is find someone running something simiar to you and see what they like. I guess thats what your doing here but I would check out what high power evo and sti guys like.
Unfortuantly all the best r comps arent available in north america. Bridgestone RE11S, hankook td's, yokohama a050, et
Dont forget, r comps fit wider than regular tires and keep your street tires on for rainy days.
Thx for the input. You know cost is secondary to winning race class.
I'll probably start with my street tires and get suspension tuned before the first timed event. Then get a test and tune day on race rubber and chase Rob down like a hunted dog.
Adam,
Thanks for the pointer to the Federal product. Might have to try a set!
Dan
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Dan,
I wouldn't rule out the affordable RS-R option through Federal. The RS-R 595 has raised quite a stir in Japan. Making big features in certain grip circles. Tsukuba Circuit for instance, many many drivers are taking this affordable tire option and nearly matching high dollar S tire lap times.
As for abuse and what not, they can & will hold up. Ive personally put a ton of laps on one complete set and they never once got greasy. Even after lengthy use (30+ minutes)
Only draw back I would have to say is the poor tread rating. Around 140 I think. And that they are sometimes a bit heavier than others on the market due to having heavily wound steel belted sidewalls.
Here is the pattern for you.

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R34 gtr wheels are 18x9 not 18x10
Nitto is owned by toyo
nt05=r1r
nt01=r888
Same compounds but nitto uses a tread pattern that is cheaper to produce and thus a worse tire overall.
As for R comps it really depends how much life/grip your looking for
wanna clean house and go threw a few sets a season? Go with 275/35 hankook z214 super soft compounds.
Wanna be go a bit faster and last the whole season with an affordable tire? Go with 245/40 nt01's
There are tons of tires in between these to suit your needs. Easiest thing to do is find someone running something simiar to you and see what they like. I guess thats what your doing here but I would check out what high power evo and sti guys like.
Unfortuantly all the best r comps arent available in north america. Bridgestone RE11S, hankook td's, yokohama a050, et
Dont forget, r comps fit wider than regular tires and keep your street tires on for rainy days.
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I've seen front torque applied rolling on throttle in 5th at highway speeds on dry pavement. Slippage under these conditions seems a remote possibility, but even if there was some slippage involved, I'd expect at least that much on the track even with R compounds.Originally posted by hozer View PostSo based on my understanding of factory attesa settings, the system doesn't work and electronically split torque unless slippage is happening somewhere. It can vary the torque based on the 3-axis sensor but I dont think it happens without slipping... I could however be wrong on this
My TSC allows me to attenuate the lateral g's reported to the ATESSA computer via a potentiometer. If you turn it all the way, it tells the AWD computer the car is going straight even if you're pulling a full g cornering. Of course this would result in severe understeer and you wouldn't go to that extreme....
Yes, the 295 section would have something to do with the reported damage. When your loads keep going up, something's got to give. If the tire won't break traction, something else will break. The only thing wrong with simply replacing the broken part with something stronger is that sooner or later you end up breaking something very expensive or with a long delivery time. I think there are many GTR's running R compounds without drivetrain or suspension failures, so I'll keep my tire width reasonable and drive smoothly.
Cheers,
Dan
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So based on my understanding of factory attesa settings, the system doesn't work and electronically split torque unless slippage is happening somewhere. It can vary the torque based on the 3-axis sensor but I dont think it happens without slipping... I could however be wrong on this
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Tire widths that were on the damaged car were huge lol 295's but it was largely due to the fact that to much power was being kept on the road because of the tires. Now I have no clue how old these tie rods were or what condition they were in, but consensus was that it was because of the tires.Originally posted by GTR-Dad View PostI'll be swapping wheels for track days, so the only street these tires will see is there and back. If I'm lazy, they might see a day or two after the track day as well.
I've got a torque split controller, but not one that locks the transfer case. It let's me control how much torque reduction you get during cornering. I can dial up the front torque to minimize wheelspin during corner exit, but I don't want to bump into power understeer either. I can balance it though with suspension setup and torque split.
Good input. Thx! What tire widths are you aware of that have been involved in damage?
I'm also curious about what you mean by 'lost power' in the AWD control context. My observation is that torque split setpoint is based on relative slip between fronts and rears, longitudinal g's (it'll send torque to the front with NO slip if you're accellerating), lateral g's (harder cornering = less front torque), and I've heard that it uses input from steering wheel angle, but I haven't verified this.
As described above, I'm OK with swapping tires for track days, so I'll probably go fairly agressive. I've run the Dunlop Direzzas for a season and like them very much. Just want more grip! I've also heard the RE11's are nice, but I think they compare more with the Starspecs than a full R comp.
Dan
When I said lost power, I meant it as in lost power being layed to the pavement, bad word to have used though now that I read over it.
I'm unsure of what setup your torque controller allows you to have but from the factory I believe that torque does not go to the front wheels until your rears start to slip. Again from the factory it was setup for oversteer and the harder you corner the LESS power it sends to the front.
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I'll be swapping wheels for track days, so the only street these tires will see is there and back. If I'm lazy, they might see a day or two after the track day as well.Originally posted by Terrh View PostNT01's are good.
Hoosiers are the best but they don't last on the street. Do you have a torque split controller? my R compounds did not like the way my GTR handled torque bias, they'd lose grip if they spun, and the GTR wants to spin the rears exiting corners all the time.
I've got a torque split controller, but not one that locks the transfer case. It let's me control how much torque reduction you get during cornering. I can dial up the front torque to minimize wheelspin during corner exit, but I don't want to bump into power understeer either. I can balance it though with suspension setup and torque split.
Good input. Thx! What tire widths are you aware of that have been involved in damage?Originally posted by hozer View PostDepends solely on how much "streetability" or "trackability" you want. Better depends largely on what you expect out of the tire.
I would try some different ones tbh, get some NT05's run em, if you want more track get some NT01's, you want even more track get some R6's.
Also as a side note R compounds have been know to cause issues on skylines, the AWD system functions in part due to slipping tires and lost power... If your tires don't allow for this you may not be going as fast as you could be because your not benefiting from the AWD. In an extreme case I would imagine that it could start breaking things (tie rods probably). Nissan didn't factory supply R's for this very reason I presume.
I'm also curious about what you mean by 'lost power' in the AWD control context. My observation is that torque split setpoint is based on relative slip between fronts and rears, longitudinal g's (it'll send torque to the front with NO slip if you're accellerating), lateral g's (harder cornering = less front torque), and I've heard that it uses input from steering wheel angle, but I haven't verified this.
As described above, I'm OK with swapping tires for track days, so I'll probably go fairly agressive. I've run the Dunlop Direzzas for a season and like them very much. Just want more grip! I've also heard the RE11's are nice, but I think they compare more with the Starspecs than a full R comp.
Dan
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