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  • maximus140
    started a topic Question on max boost with a stock rb26dett

    Question on max boost with a stock rb26dett

    I just have a question on what kind of boost could you run with a rb26dett. If I had a goal of getting around 500-600 hp. While still running the dual turbo set-up. I have heard the stock turbos should not be pushed passed .7 bar....

    Is the stock long block capable of this(obviously I would upgrade the oil pump)?

    By going to larger turbos-what would recommend? or definately not use?

    as well- an idea on injector size...750cc?

    thanx for your help

  • maximus140
    replied
    Thanx alot for the info guys! Some good numbers. Had a idea, but was curious from other builds what works

    cheers!

    Leave a comment:


  • Skym
    replied
    You'll see the boost plot on dynograph drop at higher rpm's, boost levels when turbo's run out of puff.

    This is a good example, where you can see the boost plot dropping at higher rpm's, boost levels -

    http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vhpEGyEVhe...+R34+boost.jpg

    You can extract 430ps out of stock R32GTR turbo's with stock cams, stock intercooler, upgraded fuelsystem, etc. Add cams, intercooler, probably could extract more hp.

    Then 455ps out of R34 N1 turbo's (still factory turbo's, as they were sold on the Nur, N1 models) at a lower boost level with stock cams. But can push that out to 550ps with upgraded cams, upgraded intercooler, more boost.

    Then 445ps out of R33 N1 turbo's (still factory turbo's, as they were sold on the N1 models) at a lower boost level with stock cams. But can push to 540ps with upgraded cams, upgraded intercooler, more boost.

    This is a boost up on R34GTR (stock turbo's) with PowerFC + MAF vs HKS F-con Pro+ MAP -

    Power -

    http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_vhpEGyEVhe...BOOST+UP+1.jpg

    Boost -

    http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_vhpEGyEVhe...T+UP+BOOST.jpg

    Note: The MAP setup produces more hp with the same timing, fuel.

    To convert kw to hp just x by 1.341.

    Leave a comment:


  • Terrh
    replied
    Originally posted by tokes View Post
    They are or were R32 ceramic wheel'ed OEM's. Look at his build thread.
    Correct. Car (and the turbo, I believe) had 190,000KM on it when it failed.

    10,000% sure that it was an OEM ceramic R32 GTR turbo. Nothing special about it. Just a plain old R32 turbo.

    Leave a comment:


  • tokes
    replied
    Originally posted by NismoS-tune View Post
    Terrh, are they rebuilt with metal internals or R33/R34 OEMs?
    They are or were R32 ceramic wheel'ed OEM's. Look at his build thread.

    Leave a comment:


  • Eber
    replied
    I have seen the dyno graph and i have been there to see the results so yes it did happen, and yes you are wrong to be skepitcle. That information was never meant to leave the dyno anyway because there are better things to come. and it was the cams that made the huge difference paired with meth and tune

    Leave a comment:


  • NismoS-tune
    replied
    Terrh, are they rebuilt with metal internals or R33/R34 OEMs?

    Leave a comment:


  • Terrh
    replied
    Originally posted by MR666 View Post
    I Agree, Stock turbo's don't perform past .9 bar. Not to say you can't make them spin past that point but the amount of heat generated just defeats what your trying to do.

    On another point Water/Methanol is without a doubt a good addition to simulate a higher octane fuel.
    if that's the case, why did my car go 12.23 @ 0.9 bar and 11.52 @ ~1.6 bar?

    0.7 seconds and probably about 80 horsepower say you're wrong.

    Leave a comment:


  • NismoS-tune
    replied
    Originally posted by Nismo BKK View Post
    The r32 rb26dett compression number out of the factory is 171 psi. 140-160 psi is good for an rb26 that was never rebuilt with stock internals. I believe 117 psi is the lowest limit and I think about 14-15 psi is allowed for variances on all the cylinders. Having a strong motor is a must if you are doing a build for more hp.
    Thanks for the info. I had this already, I was just curious what kind of numbers he had...ops:

    Leave a comment:


  • Nismo BKK
    replied
    Originally posted by NismoS-tune View Post
    What would you consider acceptable for compression numbers and leakage.
    The r32 rb26dett compression number out of the factory is 171 psi. 140-160 psi is good for an rb26 that was never rebuilt with stock internals. I believe 117 psi is the lowest limit and I think about 14-15 psi is allowed for variances on all the cylinders. Having a strong motor is a must if you are doing a build for more hp.

    Leave a comment:


  • Terrh
    replied
    different engines, different flow rates, etc, same turbo on a different motor is going to require a different boost level to flow a similar amount of air.


    Anyways, I ran ~1.3 bar most of this summer. 1.8 bar on nitrous in the fall. I had a turbo fail at 0.8 bar after all of that in the winter. So who knows what it'll stand up to. I put about 20,000KM on the car at 1.0+ bar.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dragon Humper
    replied
    Originally posted by falcon View Post
    at 22 PSI the stock turbos are WAY out of their efficiency zone on their compressor map. All they are doing at that point is blowing hot air into your engine.
    Oh hell yea, but that doesn't mean you still can't make reliable power. Dodge guys have been running the same basic turbo (just one with WAY crappier turbines) on 2.2l and 2.5l for 20 years at 20 to 23 psi. All you need to do is control the heat with a better than stock FMI and Water/Meth. I ran my turbo at 18psi for 3 years, and boosted ALOT (with NO intercooler). Guys from Kamloops I'm sure will remember a blue Omni GLHturbo that could smoke the tires through 3 gears.

    Andrew also had a standalone that was on the money with the tune which is most of the battle. From what I have read (and plan to test) the stock internals will hold 450 awhp reliably as long as the motor is healthy, the tune is spot on and you don't spin her much past 7500rpm.


    Jon.

    Leave a comment:


  • maximus140
    replied
    Thanx for all the info guys. I appreciate it. Being a mechanic by trade(18 years) I am looking forward to building up my Skyline . Just wanted to find out what were some good directions to pursue.
    The car as it sits now-
    1993 GT-R,
    89,300 kms( very low KMS for a '93- about 6,000 kms a year!?)
    HKS exhaust
    Trust Intercooler
    Oil cooler and filter relocation kit
    Air Intake kit
    Greddy timing belt and cover
    HKS timing gears
    HKS boost control
    Electronic torque split
    turbo timer
    Apexi Power FC

    I have done a compression test,ect. I am ivery good shape in this dept. that's why I asked.
    I have headers, Devil's own water/ meth,Larger fuel rail,Sard fuel pump to install.....

    I thought while I had the exhaust apart I would put Garrett GT2860R-5 turbos in

    Leave a comment:


  • MR666
    replied
    I Agree, Stock turbo's don't perform past .9 bar. Not to say you can't make them spin past that point but the amount of heat generated just defeats what your trying to do.

    On another point Water/Methanol is without a doubt a good addition to simulate a higher octane fuel.

    Leave a comment:


  • falcon
    replied
    Originally posted by kneacsu View Post
    Stock turbos can go well over 7psi. A certain person on here was dyno'd at 487whp? with stock turbos.
    they have yet to show a dyno sheet so I am skeptical, and at the dyno blow up day it ran 27PSI and didn't even hit the power they claimed was hit previously on 22PSI. Not saying it didn't happen, but I would like to see a dyno sheet.



    and he said .7 which I assume he meant BAR. That is approx 10-11PSI.... 12-13psi is what I would say is the max for the stock turbos from a reliability standpoint.

    Originally posted by Dragon Humper View Post
    Yup, 27psi IIRC. Water/Meth can work wonders. It popped at 27 but Andrew ran 22 psi for a very long time with Water/Meth. Ran 11.70's at 122mph IIRC. Stock turbos can produce the goods.




    Jon.
    at 22 PSI the stock turbos are WAY out of their efficiency zone on their compressor map. All they are doing at that point is blowing hot air into your engine.

    Leave a comment:

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