RB26DETT rod knock. Common problem?

[albertm7]

thread hijacked jk
sorta off topic here but where can I find a service manual for the r33 gt-r? I've searched the forums and I could only find one for the r32 gt-r and I'd rather not pay $200+ to get it from the Nissan dealership in Calgary. Oh and do the service manuals for the r33 gt-r differ from the r33 gt-r v-spec? I'm pretty sure it would be since they have different suspension setups but I just want to confirm since my hookup said he could get a v-spec for me if I wanted.
Thanks again guys

[MarusGTR]

93 and up; it's an upgrade, after all

[Ricky_Bobby]

just to clarify, when you say Post 93, do you mean 89-92 have the collar?? or 93 and up have the updated crank/collar ?

He said R33 GTR, so it has the updated crank/collar. Post 93's R32's have it also.
R33 GTR = 1995-1998.
Like people are saying though be ready for repairs.
Most GTR's were likely driven as a GTR should be......

[MarusGTR]

I garantee your car is not going to be the "virgin" you think it is. I had a GTR for 5 years at 1bar on stock everthing, plus whatever the previous owner did with it, plus what the new owner is doing to it. All hard driving the way it's meant.

If I were test riding in a car I'm trying to buy and the guy drives it really slow and gentle, I'd be worried something was wrong and he was scared to break it before I bought it. The GTRs I bought were both driven hard infront of me to confirm they were in tiptop shape. Then again, you're an engineer (most likely still in school, student) so I won't hold the lack of common sense against you

I'm an EIT, or graduate, not a P Eng yet since I'm in a Masters.

I wouldn't mind if someone would drive the car hard -properly- and -maintained-. The guy missshifted 3rd and handled the car one-hander; he only had "go fast" in mind. And also half-assing drifts in small neighborhoods. He didn't notice his rear QP had cancer and his intercooler had three dents in it.

I wont hold your opinion against you, even if it's satire was directed towards young engineers. I know we're not respected much, and I know there's poor examples of young engineers out there, but I try to show professionalism to my senior peers and make the best of the profession. Basically, you don't know me lol, wathever.

Obviously, I wasn't looking for a virgin GTR. But I do know the difference how a small stress increment can affect any component's integrity and lifespan. But, to the extent of the limits of the car, yes it's good to push it. I know that stuff craps out once you dont use it, but there's a difference between putting it through it's paces all the time and doing it while still maintaining and caring for the car though, but I'm not preaching ro you, since you have a nice GTR of your own and you probably care for it too, hopefully.

Call me paranoid for keeping close to my hear the fact that I was scraping money together to buy my dream car. I could tell the guy didn't care about his car, that was key. I'm gonna beat my GTR when its -ready- to do so. A first full service should do the trick, and I'll keep it under 8000RPM for the time being. Missing common sence? Don't think so, friend, though I admit that I could of written my previous post a little better.

Forgot: I do lack common sense in the hands-on approach of mechanics, since I've been studying my whole life, but I'm hoping to learn fast.

[NismoS-tune]

Good luck with finding a low mileage GTR, from my end the best I could do was buying a 130000km stock GTR. Still waiting for it to get shipped. Two others I was interested in were boosted at 1bar and had the same mileage. I wouldn't mess with boosted ceramic turbines, centrifugal and pressure fatigue of a brittle material? No thanks. Being that way for who knows how long, oh boy.

One of the 1bar GTR's had been raced long ago, since I noticed a faded balast sticker in the rear QP window. And man was it ever solid! The driver was pretty brutal on it, pretty much powering through every corner he could. Why do that with a potential buyer? Beats me. I should of checked the turbos to see if they were aftermarket, but the guy was in a hurry.

I just hope to god the pump's already been modified on mine, probably not, but not knowing exactly what I'm working with, it's internal condition and maintenance schedule is pretty much a nightmare for an engineer like me.

I don't have the car yet, so call it a very uneducated guess, but if you find something mechanically decent and some mild mileage, maybe you're gonna be fine running it as a mild weekender? I'm planning this for the next two years, while doing some basic RB26 essential maintenance (change timing belt, fluids etc) after that, who knows what my curriculum will give me...*sigh* I just hope I can get somewhere with this car someday.

I garantee your car is not going to be the "virgin" you think it is. I had a GTR for 5 years at 1bar on stock everthing, plus whatever the previous owner did with it, plus what the new owner is doing to it. All hard driving the way it's meant.

If I were test riding in a car I'm trying to buy and the guy drives it really slow and gentle, I'd be worried something was wrong and he was scared to break it before I bought it. The GTRs I bought were both driven hard infront of me to confirm they were in tiptop shape. Then again, you're an engineer (most likely still in school, student) so I won't hold the lack of common sense against you

[RixR32]

He said R33 GTR, so it has the updated crank/collar. Post 93's R32's have it also.
R33 GTR = 1995-1998.
Like people are saying though be ready for repairs.
Most GTR's were likely driven as a GTR should be......

[MarusGTR]

Man, when i was in the market for my GTR, there was one in northern quebec that had something crazy like 4000km on it. The thing was absolutely immaculate.. Looked like it just came out of the showroom. Was like 20,000$ though

God**** that would be sweet as molasses. Now that I have the R32 just have to make sure my baby doesn't blow up. And the interior needs a refresher. Man, 4000kms would be driving bliss and worry free, and I do love that R32 interior, fits me so nicely, wish I could drive it all the time.

[TW]

Man, when i was in the market for my GTR, there was one in northern quebec that had something crazy like 4000km on it. The thing was absolutely immaculate.. Looked like it just came out of the showroom. Was like 20,000$ though

[MarusGTR]

Yeah I plan to try to get one completely stock but the mileage, I might have to make compromises.

Thanks for the honest input guys, I'm still gonna get the car, might be a bad idea with my mechanical expertise but hey that's how you learn lol

Oh I have a 97 Honda Accord as my backup car, super reliable so no worries about getting to school

Good luck with finding a low mileage GTR, from my end the best I could do was buying a 130000km stock GTR. Still waiting for it to get shipped. Two others I was interested in were boosted at 1bar and had the same mileage. I wouldn't mess with boosted ceramic turbines, centrifugal and pressure fatigue of a brittle material? No thanks. Being that way for who knows how long, oh boy.

One of the 1bar GTR's had been raced long ago, since I noticed a faded balast sticker in the rear QP window. And man was it ever solid! The driver was pretty brutal on it, pretty much powering through every corner he could. Why do that with a potential buyer? Beats me. I should of checked the turbos to see if they were aftermarket, but the guy was in a hurry.

I just hope to god the pump's already been modified on mine, probably not, but not knowing exactly what I'm working with, it's internal condition and maintenance schedule is pretty much a nightmare for an engineer like me.

I don't have the car yet, so call it a very uneducated guess, but if you find something mechanically decent and some mild mileage, maybe you're gonna be fine running it as a mild weekender? I'm planning this for the next two years, while doing some basic RB26 essential maintenance (change timing belt, fluids etc) after that, who knows what my curriculum will give me...*sigh* I just hope I can get somewhere with this car someday.

[albertm7]

spend the extra cash for one that has low mileage and relatively stock then change the oil pump collar right away.

Yeah I plan to try to get one completely stock but the mileage, I might have to make compromises.

Thanks for the honest input guys, I'm still gonna get the car, might be a bad idea with my mechanical expertise but hey that's how you learn lol

Oh I have a 97 Honda Accord as my backup car, super reliable so no worries about getting to school

[Nismoist]

spend the extra cash for one that has low mileage and relatively stock then change the oil pump collar right away.

+1

Also look at 93+ cars as they fixed some of the problems including the oil pump issue.

[NismoS-tune]

If you want the car, forget the other guys talking and just go buy it. If and when it breaks down (they all do at some point whether it's 1km or 100,000km away) dish out the cash, fix it and drive it again. No one buys a 15-20 year old sports car thinking it won't break or not cost any cash. Trust me, it'll break somehow and you'll crack the wallet out. Sometimes it's $200, sometimes's it's $20,000. Anyone can buy a sports car like this but not many can afford it. You'll know what I mean when the time comes. I spend more time fixing my cars then I do driving, cause they're 20 years old, japanese expensive (unlike ford which all the parts for 2x more power is like 1/10th the price) and break.

buy it and deal with it or don't chance what WILL happen and get something with warranty. A new Evo or STI has warranty when it breaks, worry free, even if you blow the engine (happened to a friend's 6 month old STI). It'll most likely be cheaper in the long run, be faster stock for stock and not leakass.

What's your primary car/truck? Cause if it breaks, how you getting to school?

[greddytrustGTR]

spend the extra cash for one that has low mileage and relatively stock then change the oil pump collar right away.

[GTRADDICT]

Hooray for small parts that are hiding behind a lot of other small parts!

[BenC]

Depends on how bad it is but generally you and the mad scientist will have to rip apart the block and machine your crank, maybe replace or machine the rod that spun, and of course the bearings that are fried almost a complete short block rebuild. Getting the block dipped and cleaned is also a good idea to get any bearing material out of it

That's just to fix the knock. Then there's the infamous oil problems you'll probably want to fix to protect your investment