incase anyone needs a link on the fix for my problem heres the link:
bad connectors!
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New symptoms. Wants to stall
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*UPDATE*
After the cold winter, i took my car back out and continued my journey to get this thing back up and running properly. It turned out i had 2 separate problems on my vehicle simultaneously. 1) Bad maf connectors 2) messed up CAS. When the car is on the road and i feel a sudden lost of throttle (like no response to throttle what so ever) it was definately my CAS. After changing my cas, and retiming it, the car was running great and no more sudden stalls and throttle response. However, after a few weeks of driving, a new problem began. The car would all of a sudden go into limp mode (i get throttle response, but can not rev over 2500rpm). After messing around with the mafs, it was still going into limp mode. By luck i wiggled the connector going to the rear turbo and sure enough it was going in and out of limp mode. I read from a thread that because filters have been changed out from the box filter, it has more play on the whole assembly, hence it could damage these connection if the filters are not fully secured. Even though, it may feel like the filters are fully secure, when the car is under high throttle, it can still have a bit more play then it would if it was on its oem filter. Hope this update helps others, as i have spent so much time and money trying to figure out my problem. Now i'm in the process of looking for a set of working connectors and replace the ones i have.
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Yeap.Originally posted by Rides View PostI will try the propane way first. So I just let the gas out of the torch and run it by the lines to see if there is any change in idle sound correct?
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I will try the propane way first. So I just let the gas out of the torch and run it by the lines to see if there is any change in idle sound correct?Originally posted by DarkCaporaL View PostYou can either use a propane torch in the engine bay while the engine is running and run it near the lines. If the engine revs/sound changes then there's a leak where you just passed.
Or you can block off both MAF intakes and pressurize the system using compressed air through any other vaccum hose. You will hear hissing if thi ere's a leak. This method requires a compressor though.
Thanks man will try that now.
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You can either use a propane torch in the engine bay while the engine is running and run it near the lines. If the engine revs/sound changes then there's a leak where you just passed.Originally posted by Rides View PostNo, what's the best way to check for leaks? And which lines should I check?
Or you can block off both MAF intakes and pressurize the system using compressed air through any other vaccum hose. You will hear hissing if there's a leak. This method requires a compressor though.
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I had the negative terminal diconnected while cleaning maf, this resets ecu right?
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No, what's the best way to check for leaks? And which lines should I check?
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So here an update on my situation. After cleaning the maf it definately made a difference. When slowing down the rpm stays constant and no signs of stalling. Sit at about 950 to 1000. Drove for about 30 mins to see if there were any reaction and nothing. Car runs very smooth. Close to my home, I decided to push the car a bit more and put a bit more boost into it, and when I let off and applied just a bit of throttle pressure, the rpm dipped a bit and seem to have no power. Almost like the air/fuel ratio wasn't balance for a bit. Maybe too rich for about 2 secs. When I pull up to my driveway, and got out my turbo timer was set to 5 minutes. 3 minutes into my timer, the rpm drop to about 300 and was just about to stall, but it picked back up before it did. I put the key back in and let it ran for another 10 minutes and there was no more stalling issues. So I just turn it off.
What should I look for in this case? Mind you, before I cleaned my mafs yesterday, the car was choking very severally. Stalled about 3x at idle and lost of power when under load, got home and stalled a few more times.
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Or go with Apexi filters. I believe they are dry filters. K&N would work on a MAP based engine.Originally posted by Rides View PostYa I read up on the consequences of oiling the filter. It has a chance to gunk up your maf sensors. I was told it's best to change filters frequently.
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Ya I read up on the consequences of oiling the filter. It has a chance to gunk up your maf sensors. I was told it's best to change filters frequently.
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Sometimes an air leak inbetween the MAF and Turbo inlet causes similar issues and makes the car run super rich (blue haze at low rpm). I have similar problems with my GTR (I used brake clean on my MAFs and messed them up). Also sometime they get coated with crap if you put new K&N filters and make the mistake of oiling them. (I also have done this).
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