The Power of N1 turbos...

[Dragon Humper]

I stumbled across this video again in my search for other things. Any time someone asks what turbos they need I always think of this but can never find it on purpose. If you want mind blowing response and power enough to go low 10's in the quarter look no further.

Jon.

[bobbo]

I'm so glad I bought N1s. I've never been disappointed.

[cobrAA]

as a frenchy, the '' GTaaaaaaaaaar is fastaaaarrr '' is a quite funny accent that never ceased to put a smile on my face lol

Did they mention slick ? I guess they do. low 10s on N1 is pretty rare tho.. most people will do high or mid 11s.

[cobrAA]

as a frenchy, the '' GTaaaaaaaaaar is fastaaaarrr '' is a quite funny accent that never ceased to put a smile on my face lol

Did they mention slick ? I guess they do. low 10s on N1 is pretty rare tho.. most people will do high or mid 11s.

[Dragon Humper]

The time impressed me (street tires)...then I saw the trap speed. That thing is making hay like a chimp on crack...137mph with aero to run a road course (read: insane amounts of drag) is freaking epic. Granted that is on race fuel with a tune wound nice and tight on 1.7bar but....


Yoiks!



Jon.

[Skym]

Cool.

It's running 4.3 diffheads from a R32 GTS-4 (shorter gear ratio than factory 4.11).

Also not uncommon to see 460-550hp at engine with N1 turbo's, 260 duration cams. With higher octane gas, higher boost another +100hp is possible. With E85, probably can extract more hp at same boost level.

[bobbo]

^^^ very accurate.^^^
I'm making 427rwhp on 91 octane @16.5lbs with stock internals and R34 N1s.
According to Ontario Time attack PIP schedule that works out to 496.5 at the crank.
I've got 3 cans of 100 octane in the garage. Who knows what she could do on that?!? (rhetorical)

[Skym]

Basic boost up of a stock RB26 includes N1 turbo's, 260 duration cams.

Not all N1 turbo's are the same, as R32 N1 is around 400hp, R33 N1 around 440hp and R34 N1 around 455hp (posted it a while ago). They were from dyno testing in Japan by a tuner who just swapped the turbo's, running at same boost level from memory (years ago) and might have retuned to suit or used the same tune.

A RB20DET can produce with 98 / E85 mix (Martini fuel or similar) another +50hp at same boost level (dyno proven).

Not uncommon to reach the 400rwkw or 400awkw they mention in the videoclip (I think just over 400awkw with a GTR / RB26 is getting close to 700hp at engine, so low 10's sounds about right when around 640hp produces high 10's with a Group-A racecar), even with a high compression RB25DE+T conversion with E85 gas and be reliable as it can be when thrashed.

Also it might be holding onto the gear over the line which helps keep engine at full power and achieve slightly lower 1/4 mile. Some have gone from low 11's to high 10's that way.

A R33 N1 GTR racecar is known to do high 10's in Japan on a road course (testing facility), not a proper drag strip which puts question on why the Group-A racecar wasn't quicker (might be setup for track with more camber hence less traction or not driven hard enough).

[cobrAA]

^^^ very accurate.^^^
I'm making 427rwhp on 91 octane @16.5lbs with stock internals.
According to Ontario Time attack PIP schedule that works out to 496.5 at the crank.
I've got 3 cans of 100 octane in the garage. Who knows what she could do on that?!? (rhetorical)

best i saw with n1 on almasi's dyno is 470whp at about 18psi.

[Dragon Humper]

Imagine 25psi on a race fuel tune....AKA, a mans tune. I still firmly believe that all tunes should be done on race fuel to maximise your particular engine package at the most usable boost avail from it. Then dump the race fuel, turn the boost way down, fill the tank with the best pump fuel avail. in your area and then start turning up the boost untill you start to ping. Back off 2 psi and Bob's your uncle. That will leave you with a super sharp tune that will get the best mileage/power on the fuel you got at the pump and room to dump in some race fuel to shock and awe and know that you are perfectly safe.



Jon.

[bobbo]

I hear what you're saying but I feel it's safer to tune for worst case scenario. I'm using a PFC so no knock maps. If your fortunate enough to have an ecu that does have knock maps then above might be the way to go.

[Dragon Humper]

I'm rockin the PFC as well. The reallity is that an RB is VERY det. resistant. You really have to screw up to burn one down...I really would like to see the state of tune on one that melted a piston because it must be horrific.

I will concede that if you are running, say, N1s that you have much more to be carefull of because you can get 1.5 bar at 3000rpm. To make that much boost at that low of an RPM creates a challange...but, leaving the MAFs in place only makes it harder to tune the transition. The only way to go is the exact information that only a MAP sensor can provide for that transition zone into boost. If you are constantly on and off the throttle you need that to keep the leanouts to a minimum during that transition. Add a bunch of heatsoak from running really hard and there goes a ringland.

You can also have worst case with my method. If you are fine in cool weather with 1.2 bar and a good load of fuel, just back it off to 1 bar if its hot out. Remember, your tune is bang on so with all things being equal you should never have a tune related issue with det., only the usuall crap like bad gas...which you can fix by...turning the boost down.

I lived with that on my daily driver Dodge Omni 2.2l Turbo for 3 years with no issues at all. Sure it rattled a few times but...turn the boost down and all is well. That was with NO intercooler and CAST pistons too.




Jon.