Steering lock and other fun activities

[esh]

I've been doing a bit of research lately on getting more angle on a r32.

I've come up with several options depending on how much angle increase you want or how much you want to spend:

1. Steering angle spacers
- like these - http://www.driftworks.com/shop/suspe...cers-3014.html
- it's the cheapest solution
- but might not have enough thread left on the inner tie rod and you need to use loctite

- I've also seen this, where the spacer is just on one side : http://zilvia.net/f/suspension/34509...0-shipped.html
- you would have to recenter your steering rack


2. Aftermarket (inner) tie rods with built in spacers
- these are usually much stronger than oem
- have a built in spacer (usually 5-6 mm) and longer thread so that you don't run out
- a lot more expensive than just the spacers above
- you could add spacers to these for even more angle
- examples include uras super tie rod, tein tie rod, kazama auto tie rod



3. Aftermarket outer tie rod ends
- Not sure how much angle increase they provide
- stronger than oem
- Used for bumpsteer correction and make tie rod more parallel (like it was before lowering car)
- examples include kazama outer tie rod end, super now outer tie rod end



4. Grind down the bumpstops
- After adding spacers or installing aftermarket tie rods w/ spacers
- Be careful here as for some people, taking off too much has led to overcentering


5. One sided spacer + aftermarket tie rod end kit
- This includes the one sided spacer from 1. above and aftermarket tie rod ends
- Still uses oem inner tie rods so cheaper than getting both aftermarket tie rods and ends
- examples include the super now kit (http://www.supernow.co.jp/shop/out.cgi?0+10) , stance usa super angle kit (according to their front page there is an hcr32 application)

- sidenote: super now also makes adapters for increasing the outer tie rod end length (blue part in pic above)


6. Overcentering correction
- you can move the steering rack forward
- use offset rack spacers such as these from driftworks: http://www.driftworks.com/shop/drift...k-spacers.html...you will need to shorten the tie rods


7. Modified knuckles
- Provide more angle and some suspension geometry correction (varies)
- Choices include:

a) Custom made...find somebody that's good at welding to do them for you.

b) KP Race Engineering knuckles http://kpi.squarespace.com/steering-...modifications/
- used by Ian Fournier and Mat Rodgers of Drift Safari Team http://driftsafari.com/team/ian


c) NP Wonder Knuckles (made by Nigel ?)
- These are popular in Australia I believe
- nisskid aka Stewy on SAU uses them and he gets some serious angle...see vid

NOTE: above options involve modifying stock r32 knuckles


d) Powered by Max knuckles?
- http://www.gtfactory.jp/cms/page.php?15

e) Driftworks Geomaster knuckles?
- http://www.driftworks.com/shop/suspe...ster-hubs.html


8. Swap R32 front suspension for Macpherson S-chassis front suspension
- Driftworks R32 has done it...http://www.driftworks.com/the-driftw...ion-explained/
- RHDskyline is attempting it...http://forums.gtrcanada.com/general-...-susp-r32.html


Now for some Drift Tengoku
Copied from swiftmini's post here: http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drif...ard-hub-6.html

*to begin with he says that using spacers give you more lock
*then he shows how little thread is left
*teins are fitted for strength and better thread engagement
*grind back the bumpstops, gives you more lock
*kazama outer are fitted because they lower the outer end, making the tie rod more parallel, thus pushing or pulling the knuckle round more (ha may also be mentioning overcentre probs)
*showing that the mods shown give you an extra 1/4 turn on the steering wheel
*Bash lower arm to give the tierod end clearance and bashing the chassis rail for clearance

*d1 cars lock comparison
*modded knuckles for quicker steering, more lock, reduced ackerman, roll centre correction ect ect
*Talking about quicker reaction, less spins, more angle throughout. well as far as i can tell anyways.



Alright, that's all I have for now on steering angle. Please correct me if I'm wrong anywhere as I don't want to spread misinformation .



Now as for swaybars, I haven't looked into them enough, but I found skym's post in this thread to be very helpful:

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-tech...-fit-gtst.html

I'm thinking maybe we can use aftermarket s13 swaybars? They seem to have many more options...

Maybe roll-center correction can help too.


End of essay post

[Skym]

Bigger front swaybar than rear swaybar (factory setup on GTS-T) increases rear wheel grip and produces understeer. Bigger rear swaybar than front swaybar increases front wheel grip (GTR rear swaybar on R32 GTS-T) and produces oversteer. Adjustable swaybars allow which wheel to get more grip.

Swaybars are worked out based on shock valving, spring rates, application, so setup to work together as a package (why you buy a suspension kit with swaybars, springs, shocks, etc, as it's been worked out for you). Swaybars essentially increase spring rate without increasing spring rate. Swaybars do this by combining spring rates of left, right side springs and applying to loaded side of car which pushes away and keeps inner wheel on ground that increases lateral grip. If you turn right, left side of car is loaded. If you turn left, right side of car is loaded.

From what I understand and have noticed :-

Japan = higher spring rates, softer + lighter swaybars.

Outside Japan = lower spring rates, bigger + heavier (Whiteline) swaybars. But that's only one suspension manufacturer.

Different ways of thinking, but similar result which reduces bodyroll. Also using higher spring rates decreases ride comfort and is not good for stock chassis that's weak (could warp chassis). More for track use with rollcage. Bigger swaybars increase chassis rigidity and achieves the same result without scarificing ride comfort or warping chassis.

Some Skyline, Silvia, Z32 parts are interchangeable with each other. Brakes, swaybars, etc.

Another option is Kmac swaybars remount the outerlinks on swaybars (different place on front, rear control arms). They are easier to adjust when on racetrack, as are a sliding adjustment setup, similar to F1, Bathurst cars. Also can adjust them more due to being a sliding setup and are lighter to being a hollow swaybar.

Kmac mention what swaybars fit in rear of R32, R33, R34 Skyline -

http://www.k-mac.com/pages/swaybars/listofkits.htm

Also with Kmac you are dealing directly with a manufacturer, so can make custom parts to your requirements, from springs to custom shocks, swaybars.

Can fit a S13 front powersteering rack, as a person in Japan has done it in this article -

http://www.jdm-option.com/eng/feature/06_02/r32.html

Requires a few adjustments to control arms, but fits.