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  • beacher1B0
    replied
    Ghost gets the pat on the back for calling that one.

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  • sunnypatz
    replied
    Haha it will be changed tomorrow. However, the car is staying for a week or two. Getting EVERYTHING I can afford done all in one shot, while the car is at NMX.

    Can't wait already...

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  • Ghost
    replied
    Bet it feels good it's not a $600+ problem

    Weakest part on the whole clutch system... hope you get a new one soon and get back to driving soon!

    Cheers!

    For the record a lot of people also mistake this issue with a bent clutch fork. Mainly cause the fork will sit sideways and appear bent when you look at it where it enters the bell housing.
    Last edited by Ghost; 06-20-2011, 09:19 PM.

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  • sunnypatz
    replied
    Here is the culprit!

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  • redrocket
    replied
    Originally posted by DarkCaporaL View Post
    So it's soft or hard?

    If it's soft and only engages at the last 1/2 inch of the pedal it could be a leak, an air bubble, a failed master or slave. I would start by inspecting for leaks and attempting to bleed the system. Have you checked your reservoir? Sometimes this can get low and suck up a huge air bubble if you keep it low.

    If it's hard and you can't press it down it can be a blocked line, loose cable or throw out bearing.
    lol to be honest, i have never bled my system and i have the whole soft til the last 2 inches engagement thing i know it is not proper but i like the feel better than a fully bled system, quick engagement, no catches, no leaks, good clutch, possibly an air pocket is what im guessing but im used to driving with it and i never lose feeling and miss my rev match or over rev when letting the clutch out so i think im just not going to touch it. it works fine.... i dont want to bust anything by messing with it

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  • Ghost
    replied
    It is and it will sir. I bought mine not running... 8 months it sat as I fixed and meticulously picked through and fixed/tuned her up... 8 months later I'm getting to the performance end... And it's a whole other world of pain then. But that's part of the fun
    Last edited by Ghost; 06-19-2011, 05:55 PM.

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  • sunnypatz
    replied
    Theres no noise at all from my transmission. I doubt it's just air in the lines because of the fact that there is so much play in the clutch fork... it has to be something inside the tranny if so correct?

    My buddy is going to take the tranny apart either tomorrow or day after, so I'll be sure to give you guys an update.

    I'm going ahead and getting a bunch of other stuff changed/ fixed at the same time.

    Following all the knitty gritty annoying maintenance stuff, going to start installing all my goodies! Tough owning a skyline when its not running, but it should be well worth the wait.

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  • Ghost
    replied
    Air in lines makes it easier to push down not harder... Sure way to know if your release bearings screwed is you'll hear it scraping/ squealing in the trans, and it's loud and very noticeable. Weakest point on these clutch systems is the pivot ball stud.. Not uncommon that these break.

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  • krystalized_jdm
    replied
    Try bleeding your clutch lines. I had a similiar issue and thought it was the release bearing. Turns out i had air in my lines

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  • beacher1B0
    replied
    You could upgrade and get a Nismo Pivot Ball.

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  • Ghost
    replied
    I'm not %100 sure on that but I believe that's the one I used on mine... It's been a while..

    Edit: just called my parts guy and yes. Pivot ball studs for Z32(300zx), rb20/25/26 are all the same.
    Last edited by Ghost; 06-19-2011, 12:19 PM.

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  • sunnypatz
    replied
    Perfect! I'm bringing the car to NelsonMX tomorrow to have it all worked out. He'll take care of it for sure. I'm definately considering swapping out the CMC and the Slave at the same time, might as well...don't want to run into a problem like this again!

    Oh and as for the ball stud.. it's for sure the same as the 300zx?

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  • Ghost
    replied
    Release (throw out) bearing is engaged/disengaged by the clutch fork which pivots on a ball stud just inside the bell housing. If the pivot ball stud is damaged the fork isn't sitting right or engaging/disengaging the release bearing properly. This prolly why you can still, sort of get into gear but with a lot of play in the pedal. In essence, your clutch fork is just flopping around doing nothing. Also why the fork seems loose and the slave pins not seated through it properly. The ball stud itself is like, $15 and I believe it's the same as a 300zx one... But yeah you gotta go inside your transmission now. You should be able to look inside the dust boot on the right side of the bell housing and see if the studs broken. Wouldn't hurt to switch out with a new slave at the same time...


    Did a quick search, theres Nismo ones you can get as well for around $10-$15...
    Last edited by Ghost; 06-19-2011, 02:10 AM.

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  • sunnypatz
    replied
    Can it also be a throwout bearing? Eitherway, I doubt this is a job I can do myself now... guess it's finally time to fork over cash for this car!

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  • Ghost
    replied
    Sounds like pivot ball...

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