break in methods

**gtrjon** · 08-05-2011, 02:26 AM

Hey guys so as my build comes to an end im researching different break in methods. i know everyone has their own method that they swear by but just trying to get some different perspectives. so what do you guys do for your break ins? how many miles? hard or solf? what oil do you run?

**hozer** · 08-05-2011, 11:40 AM

Drive softly and try to run a decent rev range; vary your speed and revs as often as possible. And if you do give it a pull (gonna be irresistable... trust me :P) every now and then, you'll be fine really.

Run regular mineral oil for the first 1000km and change it every 200km, then switch to synthetic. Synthetic off the start doesnt allow for enough wear on new parts and taking off the imperfections of bored cylinder etc..

Wouldnt really "drive" the car till a couple thousand km at least. My tuner wouldn't even dyno it till 5000km

**gtrjon** · 08-05-2011, 11:49 AM

Wouldnt really "drive" the car till a couple thousand km at least. My tuner wouldn't even dyno it till 5000km[/QUOTE]

really?? i was just gna hit 1000km then do the oil change to synthetic then dyno!... gna have the break in tune with 1bar of boost and 6k limiter

**Black BNR32** · 08-05-2011, 12:14 PM

in my inexperienced opinion, the most important part is to change the oil right after the first time you bring it up to temp. a magnetic oil drain is a good idea.

**cobrAA** · 08-05-2011, 01:00 PM

Well our local tuner will break in the engine on the dyno lol

**hozer** · 08-05-2011, 01:33 PM

Originally Posted by cobrAA

Well our local tuner will break in the engine on the dyno lol

This is not a good idea... Awful actually.

As for the 5000km thing, I really do believe thats a strecth, but I would drive at least 1000km (which it seems you plan to do).

The essential idea of your break in is to:
Seat all you seals and gaskets
'Wear' out the impurities and imperfections left on the machine internals.
have something fail while you are driving like a little bi1ch instead of exploding on the dyno.

First 2 are important, 3rd is upto your comfort zone/level

I wouldn't personally trust a GT-R on a dyno with new everything till a couple thousand km. I had my fuel pump fail, oil relocation kit piece fail, and various other problems within the first couple thousand. Bunk pieces that in the event they had hit dyno probably would have cost me a lot more. This however is just my personal preference/recommendation

**evilgtr** · 08-05-2011, 06:47 PM

Lots of valid points, like cobraa says iv met tuners that the break in happens on the dyno then straight to the tune. There is no set required km's. The most important thing is make sure your compression is within a few psi from cylinder to cylinder. This is a clear indication that all your rings and valve train have seated equally. After that tune away.

I had the shop that built my motor break my engine in to, they waste gates were unhooked and the car was drove around downtown Vancouver which provided all different driving conditions. Frequent compression tests were done along the way and I believe is was somewhere around 600km before it was ready to tune

**GTRADDICT** · 08-05-2011, 07:46 PM

This is what Rob from RIPS said... hit em pretty hard after you have done a 3-5 minute warm up and cool down from the initial start up, just so you can check for leaks and bleed the cooling system properly etc.

I usually do 20-30 minutes then change the oil to the same running in oil, then do another 30-45 minutes getting up to around 3/4 power and around 1500-2000rpm off peek.

Then change the oil to the good stuff and go for it.

Me speaking now... You want pressure on the rings. So you need some boost and some vacuum. No cruise controle type driving. I would set de rev limiter to around 5k-5.5k at the most... You only want boost not so much the rev. I would do that for <1000Km then go for the full tune. It's your machine your choice. But it has to see boost or some load (N/A engines) at least. Do baby the fawk out of it... your rings will never seal right and your comp will prob. be low

And for god sakes... Make sure everything is tight!

**Skym** · 08-05-2011, 08:10 PM

Nismo does it with engine on engine dyno and tune, engine in the car and tune checked on hub dyno, road tune / check.

It's mentioned on their website -

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory...news_1012.html

You'll need a translator if browser doesn't automatically translate it.

As far as I know, racecar teams do it the same way as Nismo does it, but last step is on racetrack, not road.

I think why a engine dyno is used, because you can hold at constant rpm for a long period, as shown in this videoclip -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXMLJv_p9jo

On road you won't be able to hold engine at constant rpm for a long period of time hence engine dyno is best, safer.

**GTRADDICT** · 08-05-2011, 10:11 PM

Originally Posted by Skym

Nismo does it with engine on engine dyno and tune, engine in the car and tune checked on hub dyno, road tune / check.

It's mentioned on their website -

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory...news_1012.html

You'll need a translator if browser doesn't automatically translate it.

As far as I know, racecar teams do it the same way as Nismo does it, but last step is on racetrack, not road.

I think why a engine dyno is used, because you can hold at constant rpm for a long period, as shown in this videoclip -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXMLJv_p9jo

On road you won't be able to hold engine at constant rpm for a long period of time hence engine dyno is best, safer.

If you are at constant RPM there is no load on the rings so therefore less force and the rings to pop them outwards (Ring applying pressure on cylinder) Meaby it's just me.