Found a stripped hole in head, what now...

[Bruizer]

While replacing all my tomei cam cap studs with another $200 set, I found 1 that came out with full threads meaning the hole is stripped. Even with a new stud, it won't torque (stud starts lifting out at 1/3 of the minimum required torque.

So since the body around the hole is too small foe a helicoil, what's the best solution?
It's holding just barely and the other stud on that cap is good.
Do I:

Leave it and hope it holds at 10000rpm
Pull it out, clean it and reinstall with red locktite (don't care if it never comes out again; next time it's a new engine)
Reinstall it with JB weld, let it cure and torque nut after?
Drill hole slightly bigger, tap to whatever and JB weld in place
Pull engine out, part out and go rb30.

It's a new rb26, everything has been improved except for valves. Everything is done and waiting on this issue to start breaking in. Reason for fella if studs is that I had to pull out 8 of them to reduce the length and clear new baffles, found they were stretched beyond acceptable usage. Engine was Built by a respectable shop, no names to Protect the Guilty, rather than complain and fight I'll just swallow the $220 loss.

Thanks

[cortexx]

I would drill and tap the hole and get a stud made for it a size larger. If that doesnt hold, replace the head.

I was thinking about this and i remember having a similar problem years ago , to make sure the new stud was a tight fit we used a new tap , mounted it in a drill press and dulled it running some fine emery cloth over the thread edges . when we screwed the stud into it , the fit was very tight because the studs threads being slightly shallower increased the interference with the stud alot , it was so tight we couldnt remove it after we inserted it. You should also throw the stud in the freezer to shrink it slightly and make it easier to screw in if you do this.

[RGB]

Same thing happened to me, but it was a bolt for the exhaust manifold. One of the bolts didn't come out at all. Torched the head off, then bored it to the next size up very carefully, and then had to modify the manifold hole a bit to allow the new stud to pass through. You have to be really careful because of the oil and coolant journals, but it's very possible as long as you stay straight as an arrow. Re-reading I see you're talking about a different spot on the engine, but the suggestion still stands.

I agree with Cortexx here.

[Bruizer]

Gonna look for a 6mm x 1 helicoil kit and see where that gets me. Everything is in the car, I pull they head off im building a new engine. Sick of fixing this bs

[dark_sky]

i did this in march on a 98 neon 2.4 srt4. cam cap bolt striped bad!! so i taped and papered the head so nothing got in the motor. drilled tapped and helicoiled it. i did it in the car.

[GTRADDICT]

+1 Helicoil. I would search into it a bit before just to be sure...

[Bruizer]

+1 Helicoil. I would search into it a bit before just to be sure...

Lol how come you say +1 if you're not sure.

It's the only right fix that can be done with the head in the car, I'm just nervous about making the hole straight as one of the studs has a bent hole where the cap nearly had to be jammed in but torqued.
Intake side now, 14 more studs to install this morning. Going to hunt for a M6x1 helicoil kit after, in case I find something else...

[Speeddm]

Use a Helicoil. Ive used them lots in race blocks. They work great wa better option then uppn gth esize of bolts. Make sure you use the correct lock-tite or it will turn out wne you remove the bolt. Thats a pain.

[Black BNR32]

what is the wall thickness (from the inside of the hole to outside) at the thinnest point?