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Thread: Freshly rebuilt engine- Keep stalling, doesn't hold idle.

  1. #1
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    Freshly rebuilt engine- Keep stalling, doesn't hold idle.

    So yeah the title say that I got my motor running but after 5 seconds, it will simply dies. no idle at all. If I give him gas, that's fine. motor will run ''fine''.

    However, we had to move the car so we started it maybe 3 minutes and now it takes mor elike 15 second before stalling. so could it be normal? like, at this time, I don't wantto f*ck up anything but if it's normal than we will continue to press on the gaz for the next 20 kms and should be good after or not?

    So question is.. does rebuild motor need to be ''centered'' by running a couple of kms before driving fine or should they drive fine right off the first crank?

    Now, 2 peoples told me about TPS, IDLE IAAC valve ( obviously!),maf,injector wiring,coilpack.

    Everything was runninf fine when we pull out the motor so worst case, someone dropped a piece on the floor, I dunno.. but beside this, I can't see why any of these pieces could of been broken when they were running just fine 3 months ago.

    Thanks for your times.
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    GTRCer DarkCaporaL's Avatar
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    Make sure a vac line didn't come off.
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  3. #3
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    check your base ignition timing...should be 20 degrees...use the negative wire on coil 1 for your timing light
    oh hai!

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    I would first check ECU for error code; then check all the wires, connectors, and hoses Then, check the spark plugs. They may have been flaud. Then do a compression test.

  5. #5
    GTRCer Bruizer's Avatar
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    Timing is most likely your issue. If you changed any parts, time for tuning but change your timing first.

    Is it the same engine and same specs or big cams, bore and other goodies? Tuner cars mean you should tune after Any change reslly

    My rebuilt engine was at 2 degrees ATDC. I put it to 15 BTDC, with no cnage to my no idle. My proble was I adjusted my throttle sensor and threw my throttle range out. Ecu thought I was at 2% throttle when I was try to idle at 0. Easy fix, re Ali rated my sensor, I have a stand alone ecu though.

    What's your AFRs at? Mine were at 11 when idling rough. Buy a timing light and correct it or get a mechanic to set up your new engine which could be totally different then the ecu thinks it is.
    Last edited by Bruizer; 07-18-2011 at 04:24 PM.
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  6. #6
    GTRCer Bruizer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xcye View Post
    I would first check ECU for error code; then check all the wires, connectors, and hoses Then, check the spark plugs. They may have been flaud. Then do a compression test.
    Waste of time me thinks, timing is out and compression tests are meaningless that early. Some new engines read really low till in the 1000km. If the car runs fine on throttle and won't idle, forget plugs, comp test and hoses. Are you doing a hard break in or girly easy one? Either way, idling a new engine is wrong and your builder/mechanic shoulda said that.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruizer View Post
    Waste of time me thinks, timing is out and compression tests are meaningless that early. Some new engines read really low till in the 1000km. If the car runs fine on throttle and won't idle, forget plugs, comp test and hoses. Are you doing a hard break in or girly easy one? Either way, idling a new engine is wrong and your builder/mechanic shoulda said that.
    There's a different between idling smoothly and stalling if I don't hit the gaz no!? With new cams, I don't expect it to be as smooth as before but there's still a line between stalling and staying on lol

    It seriously don't look good. here's what our diagnotistic is. me and my friend are shocked, I will have a mechanic/tuner take care of it.

    1) Car is CRAZY HOT after 2 minute of running. valve cover and charge pipe particulary.

    2) Leaking Prestone

    3) exhaust gaz buff white cloud.. and smell sugar.

    4) Doesn't keep idle

    The car before the rebuild was running perfect and already tuned last year. we changed the cam for poncam and overbore by .5mm. reinstalled everything and here's the problem.
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  8. #8
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    You've mentioned all the signs of a headgasket failiure.
    Quote Originally Posted by cobrAA View Post
    There's a different between idling smoothly and stalling if I don't hit the gaz no!? With new cams, I don't expect it to be as smooth as before but there's still a line between stalling and staying on lol

    It seriously don't look good. here's what our diagnotistic is. me and my friend are shocked, I will have a mechanic/tuner take care of it.

    1) Car is CRAZY HOT after 2 minute of running. valve cover and charge pipe particulary.

    2) Leaking Prestone

    3) exhaust gaz buff white cloud.. and smell sugar.

    4) Doesn't keep idle

    The car before the rebuild was running perfect and already tuned last year. we changed the cam for poncam and overbore by .5mm. reinstalled everything and here's the problem.
    My car keeps on stealing my money .

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    High Heat can be bad timing. Happen to my truck w/ 350 cid and to my lancer when we did the timing belt (skiped a tooth)
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