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Thread: Bolt on Options - Advice Needed

  1. #1
    GTRCer Imation's Avatar
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    Bolt on Options - Advice Needed

    Like most I'm on a power quest. Currently I have found my self at cross roads on what to do next.
    I have a couple ideas on my mind but dont know which to go with. I was looking at a few options. Bolt on, build the head, or a bit of both.

    Option 1: Bolt on

    Drop in cam.
    Tomei Pon Type B (260 duration 9.15mm lift ) or HKS 272 duration 8.7mm lift. At $800+ is either option worth the money or the gains? I have searched but no one is very clear on the topic.w

    Manifolds
    Tomei Expreme exhaust manifolds
    Greddy intake plenum.
    Again are these necessary to upgrade to reach 500-550whp

    Greddy or HKS hard pipe kits

    Option 2 Build the head

    Go with larger cams such as a tomei pro cam or hks step 2 with more lift.
    tomei valve springs and lifters
    mild port and polish

    Current Setup:

    RB26. Aftermarket forged bottom end, arp head studs, metal headgasket, and nismo oil pump.
    Stock head
    650cc injectors, nismo fpr
    STOCK Fuel pump will be replace with either one or two walbro 255
    Turbos- gt2860r-5
    full 3" exhaust and
    trust intercooler
    apexi suction kit w 300zx maf's
    Currently using nistune, greddy profec B, and aem uego for tuning.

  2. #2
    GTRCer archaeic_bloke's Avatar
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    don't bother with exhaust manifolds... for the money and the installation work you can get a lot more else where.

    if your bottom end can take it (which a forged bottom end should be able to), i would go with your option 2...

    lemme put it this way.... the head is the thing that MAKES power... and the bottom end (block and pistons) TAKE that power... so ur limiting factor here is not what power you can "take" - its the head....

    so yah, a pair of cams, adjustable cam gears (to help dial in the power band), a mild port and polish, and crank up the boost .


    in all honesty though if your goal is around 500 whp, you can get there by just turning up ur boost to like 1.8 bar... the stock head is fairly good up to about that level.
    The SkyLife Community & News Website --> http://www.skylife4ever.com

  3. #3
    GTRCer Imation's Avatar
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    Ok so it seem like building a head is the way to go.
    What size cams can you put in before you get a lumpy idle.
    I drive the car a fair amount and don't want to give up practicality

  4. #4
    GTRCer derk's Avatar
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    you dont want too much duration if its gonna be a relatively stock car on the stock redline, high duration cams will move your powerband higher up the rpm range. for a street car, you want short duration, and big lift, otherwise it'll feel really laggy, and make the powerband rather unpractical for the street.

    but you cant really fit anything bigger than poncams without machining the head to clear bigger cams, so poncams are probably the way to go. together with a mild port and polish, meth, and turn up the boost along with the generic boltons like turbo outlets/downpipe/exhaust/intake, and a good tune, should make for a really streetable gtr with a fat powerband

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by derk View Post
    you dont want too much duration if its gonna be a relatively stock car on the stock redline, high duration cams will move your powerband higher up the rpm range. for a street car, you want short duration, and big lift, otherwise it'll feel really laggy, and make the powerband rather unpractical for the street.

    but you cant really fit anything bigger than poncams without machining the head to clear bigger cams, so poncams are probably the way to go. together with a mild port and polish, meth, and turn up the boost along with the generic boltons like turbo outlets/downpipe/exhaust/intake, and a good tune, should make for a really streetable gtr with a fat powerband
    Now I get it!!

    OEM is 248 btw! they make 252 but I guess it's stupid to change them for only 4 degrees.

  6. #6
    GTRCer archaeic_bloke's Avatar
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    i've heard a lot of good things from people running 264's or 272's and usually the lift we see with those is like 9.x mm lift or 10.2
    The SkyLife Community & News Website --> http://www.skylife4ever.com

  7. #7
    GTRCer Imation's Avatar
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    So how much lift can you run without machining the head to clear the lobes? I was looking at the pro cams with 10.25 and 270degree duration. Too much or should I go with the 260degree

    Also the stock cam duration is only 240 degrees?
    Last edited by Imation; 11-07-2010 at 12:00 PM.

  8. #8
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    248 I said.

  9. #9
    GTRCer derk's Avatar
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    i dont know the exact mm of lift, but pretty much any average cam that is in the 10's will require machining

    tomei makes a sweet 260deg 10.8mm cam that i want to try out

  10. #10
    GTRCer NismoS-tune's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by derk View Post
    i dont know the exact mm of lift, but pretty much any average cam that is in the 10's will require machining

    tomei makes a sweet 260deg 10.8mm cam that i want to try out
    Tomei's are nice till you have to use their $400+ buckets for their large cams. Bigger cams = laggier.

    People out there can make over 500whp on a stock head and GT2530s.

    Also, for the thread creator, these cars have been around over 20 years, they have been modded in soooo many ways it sick. You asked a noob question there. Check out some builds all over the world. Someone out there has done it.

    On that note, you should try twin T04Z SPL turbos.
    Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
    Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. For sale. $5500
    Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior.
    White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

    Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

    start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
    lol

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