Hicas or not? / Solid rear bushings

[chew_bacco]

What’s the better way to go for handling: to keep the hicas system, put in a lock bar or change out the rear sub frame from a non hicas car like an early 90s 240?

I have heard a lot of people say a lot of different things about hicas but have never gotten any really good info to make a decision upon. I have the rear sub frame dropped out of my Gtr right now so I thought it’s time to make a decision about how it’s going to go back together.

When the car is finished I am shooting for a 500-650whp car that will mostly just be a street car and only see the track a few times. Not sure how well the hicas will do with the extra power?

Also does anyone know how well the AMS solid bushings on the rear sub frame perform and what’s the best way to remove the old rubber ones?

Anyone who has some knowledge on this will be greatly appreciated.

[pmurr181]

Hey,

So as for the hicks i would remove that garbage right away and either buy a cheap lock bar or go with a tome lock kit which is the more preferred method because you can get rid of rear ball joints.

As for the AMS solid aluminum subframe bushings they work great for me. If you have a gtr or GTS4 then you are going to need to either make a large washer or use washers because the gtr and GTs4 subframe posts are lounger and with the AMS solid bushings it brings it closer to frame of car and you run out of thread. As for gst-t they will work great.

[frankiman]

get rid of everything HICAS, buy something that replaces the whole rear actuation; tie rods and rod ends included, something like the Driftworks Total hicas eleminator

and you don't need to remove the old rubber bushings, the AMS solid ones fit right over them, and buy GTR specific parts and you won't have any problem

[pmurr181]

No the solid aluminum sold subframe bushings do not fit right over them that is only if you are doing the solid aluminum subframe collars they go over top.

In my opinion if your gonna be done there for a quick fix then do the collars if you wanna do long term do the solid aluminum bushings. i Have them in my gts4 and i drive it all year round in the winter and its fine.

[Black BNR32]

see if you can meet a couple gtr owners in calgary...one with hicas, one without. test. make decision. done.

[Dragon Humper]

I got 700 odd HP and the hicas works fine for me, it just adds about 100lbs to the car and that reason alone is why it has to go.

Jon.

[Black BNR32]

I'm goint to make up some delrin bushings to replace the rubber ones used in the AMS and driftworks kits. will report back next summer.

[xcye]

I'd say "delete HICAS all the way". I had HICAS before. It made the car feel funny when cornering. I deleted the whole system, which made the car a lot more predictable.

I recommend Nismo subframe bushings, which are on my car right now, for a street car. Have driven a car with solid bushings before, the noise was unbearable for me on street.

That's my $0.02

[Dragon Humper]

Oh yea, I do plan on using the DriftWorks hicas delete kit. Mostly because it looks like it won't rip apart once I start to tickle the 9s with drag radials next year. I have a delete bar if you want it, I don't want to trust the tie rods and ends that thread into the bar with a hopefully 1.3 to 1.4 sec 60'.

[Skym]

With nolathane bushes on hub side, you might get a bit of play. HICAS lock kit with solid joints is best (Japan). At least that's what I was told.

On Gibson Group-A R32 GTR they had a simple / redesigned balljoint design on hub side -

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...171505315.jpeg

I was told that factory don't grease the outer balljoint on hub side at factory (even though it has a nipple to grease it) and due to this it wears, creates play. This takes out inner joint on HICAS rack (regreased both sides on my car with outer balljoints, made a difference). Aftermarket balljoint is pre greased. The balljoint on hub side can be removed without removing hub. But takes around 1 hour each side.