To remove or not to remove-ABS

[measrR32]

Should I remove my ABS, and to comptly remove it how hard is it? Are there any threads showing you how to remove it? CAnt find any maybe not looking hard enoughh,

[Skym]

R32 GTR N1 never had ABS (factory endurance racecar). It was a requirement for R33 GTR N1, R34 GTR N1 due to rule changes. Only decent ABS is F1 ABS, as it applies pressure in multiple stages to stop locking up when late braking which is the problem with single? stage ABS on most stock cars.

Here's a Group-A R32GTR (cold tyres, brakes) without ABS vs stock R32 GTR with ABS -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AwbbA3INlgA

Use R32 GTS-T Type-M master cylinder, hard lines, as designed to work with the 4pot front, 2pot rear brakes. I think ABS might be rigged (wired) to 4wd/ABS ECU that's located in the trunk on passenger side of underside of parcel tray. A mobile car electrician should be able to earth wiring properly to switch off any error codes. I would suggest getting a R32 workshop manual and look at wiring diagrams.

[NismoS-tune]

Why get rid of it? That's not an easy job...

I got rid of mine and all my car does now is brake funny or lock up (at high speeds, it's not nice, even if you're gental and 'pump' it lol.

[Skym]

I don't have ABS on my car and was done at factory. I don't have problems emergency braking from high speeds in the wet. Other cars lock up around me. Also at low speeds, didn't have a problem braking in emergency situation.

How did you set the brake bias from front to rear (it's adjustable)??? If set too much on front that might happen. The excessive wear on front rotors vs less wear on rear rotors will tell you if it has too much front bias. Also rotors not wearing evenly on same axle can cause brake lockup problems on one wheel (I had it on drivers side front wheel). Happens when brake hose fails internally (replace all brake hoses and both rotors, pads on the front) and wears one rotor more than the other. Always monitor brake rotor wear and listen for unusual sounds (brake caliper dragging), look for leaks on calipers, etc. The rubber brake hoses can get hit by rocks, leak (low fluid in brake resouvoir, hand brake light light's up on dash) and is sometimes hard to find unless press brakes very hard, hence why braided brake hoses are better (learnt it the hard way). Funny enough it was the same drivers side brake hose on my car that got hit by the rock.

[C-unit]

never have ABS and never will.

it's pretty easy, run a non-abs master and get either stock non-abs hardlines or make your own lines. Grab a proportional valves and you are good to go.

Easy swap but it's time consuming to set it right.

[Dragon Humper]

You don't need to change out the master, all you need to do is split the one line coming out of the orig. master (something that the ABS module does and what most other manufacturers do anyway). Bend up some new lines and your done. You could do a prop. valve just to have that adjustment (which I am doing) for about $75 if you shop around.

I am tossing my ABS because it leaks like a siv, and it will remove about 15lbs off of the front of the car.


Jon.

[NismoS-tune]

I swapped my master to an R33 one (ABS though it doens't matter) but it wasn't direct fitment, still no fluid level wiring...

[newalliance123]

Ya when I dropped ABS I used a R32 GTS master w/ non abs and it has the fluid level wiring in it.

Has anyone tried a bigger Z32 one? I was thinking if it was LHD then the ports probably come out the other side which could be better or worse not sure haven't looked it in a while...

[measrR32]

Sooo getting back to my question lol...
Should I remove it or not, is it worth the time cAuse I will so it over winter? And if I were to remove it I'd remove everything to do with the abs, how much lighter, pros and cons?!?! Help

[M13]

Like any deletion mod, if you aren't gonna do it right, don't do it.

Probably cheaper to look into a crashed non-ABS car and take parts off it.