Project Candy BNR32

[gunner_imports]

Thought I'd post my current build/future build list for reference purposes... future modifications are still being researched and list is very likely to change a lot before parts are bought/installed.

Goal: Reliable 500-600hp. One or two track days per year, mainly daily driver for 6 months per year.

All helpful constructive comments are appreciated .

Any sponsors or otherwise who have parts available feel free to PM me prices.

1991 Nissan Skyline GTR RB26DETT (90,000kms)

Current Modifications
3.5" Stainless Steel Exhaust from headers back
K&N M's Cold Air Intake
Nismo 260km/h Speedo
Alpine CD Player
Impul Pedals
A/M Shift Knob
Viper Security System with Remote Unlock & Arm
North American Battery Conversion
4 HKS Lowering Springs
Front Adjustable GAB Struts
4 Z Rated Goodrich G Force Tires
Apexi Front Kevlar Brake Pads
300zx Rear Brakes
Mines A/M Boost Guage (0-1.4Bar)
A/M Headlights (needed for legalization)
Rear illuminated side markers (needed for legalization)
Rear High Mount Third Brake Light (needed for legalization)
Front Side Marker Reflectors (needed for legalization)
Daytime Running Lights (needed for legalization)
2 New Garrett GT2860R5 Turbos (put in at 88,000kms)
DriftWorks Wasted Spark Remote Coil Pack Kit


Future Modifications

ENGINE BOTTOM END

http://parts.stores.ebay.ca/Engines-...atZ33623QQtZlw

http://stores.ebay.ca/Erics-Performa...QQftidZ2QQtZkm

CP Pistons & Rings
http://www.xs-engineering.com/xsstor...idproduct=4193
$775
Cosworth Engine Bearings / Misc: Nissan RB25/26 - Rod
$65.55
Cosworth Engine Bearings / Misc: Nissan RB25/26 - Main
http://www.xs-engineering.com/xsstor...idproduct=4356
$141.55
Eagle h-beam rods with arp 2000 bolts
http://www.frsport.com/Eagle-CRS4783...26_p_8063.html
$519.95
Machine & Balance Cams
$600
Nismo Oil Pump
Jun Oil Pump Drive Collar
http://www.justjap.com/parts_nengine.htm
$296
8.5L oil sump with swinging gates
$618.18
Gates Race Series Timing Belt
$77

ENGINE HEAD
Tomei pon cams 260 deg with 9.15mm lift
$1099
Tomei type a Springs
$609
Ferrea 1mm oversized valves
Inlet $663.64
Exhaust $472.73

FUEL SYSTEM
Walbro Fuel Pump (255LPH)
-Website:[URL="http://xs-engineering.com/xsstore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=19&idproduct=842[/URL]
-Cost: EST. $200CDN
HKS Fuel Delivery Rail
-Website: http://www.perfectrun.com.au/perform...ksfuelrail.htm
-Cost: EST. $300CDN
HKS 680CC Fuel Injectors
-Website: http://www.nengun.com/hks/fuel-injectors
-Cost: EST. $700CDN
Fuel Regulator?

AIR INTAKE
Greddy Suction Kit - RB26DETT
http://www.jdmspeedshop.com/product_...ebee7193ed18d1
http://www.nengun.com/hks/racing-suction-kit-reloaded
$837-999
Bigger Front mount Intercooler?
Z32 MAFs
-Website: http://forums.gtrcanada.com/showthre...164#post299164
-Cost: EST. $270CDN

ELECTRONICS
POWER FC & FC COMMANDER (ECU)
-Website:http://www.perfectrun.com.au/perform...fccomputer.htm
-Cost: EST. $900CDN
APexi Boost Controller
-Website: http://www.perfectrun.com.au/perform...fccomputer.htm
-Cost: EST. $375CDN
Wasted Spark Coilpack Conversion
-Website: http://www.driftworks.com/catalog/pr...-pack-kit.html
-Cost: EST. $333.78CDN Delivered

[gunner_imports]

And some pictures...


Pretty clean A/M Accord headlight install. Very happy with how it turned out.


Hood paint is fading. My goal is to have her repainted eventually, but probably one of the last things I do... I'll probably pick up a vented CF hood before paint.


Back-end view. You can see the high-mount TBL and the side markers I installed for legalisation.


And a photo after she just got washed up at the park.

[tokes]

Save yourself 500 bucks and buy a pair of Z32 mafs from MWracing on here instead of getting the nismo ones.

Also, instead of spending 450 bucks on a 275 lph nismo pump, you can use that 500 bucks you save from using Z32 mafs and put it towards a real fuel system. I'd run either twin intank walbros, or a surge pot setup before I would spend that much on a Nismo pump.

[Bruizer]

I think the nismo MAFs are actually rated higher AND they're 70mm.
here is a chart to show the difference. Not much between the Z32 and Nismo however the nismo are rated higher. If you follow the Z32 line and keep in mind the path it is taking it's not at far (unless you believe that as soon as it meets the Nismo line it magically starts following the same path). Anyways it finishes around 800 kg/h. If I hadn't gone with Z32s and the Power FC had a nismo MAF selection, I'd have nismo units. They are still tunable with the PFC but not as easy as the Z32s.

[gunner_imports]

Save yourself 500 bucks and buy a pair of Z32 mafs from MWracing on here instead of getting the nismo ones.

Also, instead of spending 450 bucks on a 275 lph nismo pump, you can use that 500 bucks you save from using Z32 mafs and put it towards a real fuel system. I'd run either twin intank walbros, or a surge pot setup before I would spend that much on a Nismo pump.

Just the kind of info I was looking for! I'm sure the list will evolve a lot in the future...

[gunner_imports]

Z32 should be good for up to 600HP no?

[Braden @ JNS Imports]

yes, or you can run a D-Jetro power fc like myself and not have the problem of mafs bit harder to tune though

[gunner_imports]

Well, I fixed my MAF issue this spring (re-solder). But I still have a misfire at low throttle and it seems to be affected by temperature (hotter my engine, the worse it is).

Anyway, those are my symptoms and since I'm pretty sure every cylinder fires at WOT, I'm assuming it's coil packs, especially since they are 17 years old and everything in my engine bay seems to have been affected by heat (MAF was heat related also I'm pretty sure).

So my solution:
RB20/RB25/RB26 Wasted Spark Remote Coil Pack Kit


After doing a bit of research last night and deciding ordering just one coil pack would be kind of dumb, I came across a number of people who have installed this kit, and they all love it. I got it for about $335 CDN including shipping to my door from the UK. So, much cheaper than OEM coil packs, and apparently better than Splitfires and just as good as OEM.

We shall see...

I'm thinking I'll make a little video of the before and after for you guys to all make your own opinions. Should be on my door next week sometime!

D

[gunner_imports]

Alight... installed my wasted spark remote coil pack kit. Unfortunately it didn't get rid of my misfire, but still works and looks good. Here's a How-To/DIY for anyone else who wants to install this kit.

1. Start by trimming all insulation off the ignitor - to - coils loom.

Originally I labeled each ignition coil plug to avoid confusion later but it's really not necessary. Just pull out the loom as is and you'll be able to figure out what's what later.




Discovered my Igniter was a used RB20 Igniter... possibly the cause of my miss.



17 year old heat shrink that has been cooked is super hard. This was probably the hardest part of the job. Be careful not to cut any wires when you're getting this stuff off...




2. Study the wiring, note the cylinder 1 loop (for timing lights) and the earth wire ring (ground located behind cylinder 6 in BNR32s). These are both black, the rest all coloured, from left to right is GND, cyl6, cyl5, cyl4, cyl3, cyl2, cyl1 (also black).

3. The coil (one in the kit) is non-polarized, meaning it doesn't mater which way round it's wired. Each segment segment (there are 3) is an individual coil which are totally isolated from one another.

4. To power the coil, run the fat white wire from the 3 pin plug. In BNR32s, this should have been disconnected at the rear of the engine.



This supplies the power to coil. Run this wire to either the top 3 or the bottom 3 pins (remember it's non-polarized).




5. Now join cyl 6 & 1 wires, then connect to the coil on a left or right side (depends on where you want leads mounted) opposing a power wire. These are the GND pulse signals that fire the plugs.

6. Join cyl 5 & 2, connect to coil on an un-used tab (usually use the center one) opposing a power wire. Join cyl 3 & 4, connect to coil on an un-used tab (the last one left) opposing a power wire.





7. All tabs are now filled. 3 power feeds top or bottom, and the 6 GND trigger feeds (which you have bridged into 3). Insulate them so nothing can touch them (usually bend them over over, solder, then use a liquid electrical tape, insulated spade terminals are OK for people without irons).

8. Label the individual coils with there correct cyl on front somewhere. They are in pairs of cyl 1&6, cyl 2&5, and cyl 3&4.

9. Check everything twice especially that the cyl 1 black wire is NOT the GND, and you have the ignitor GND ready with ring to earth.

10. Mount the coil pack somewhere away from heat (not above exhaust).

11. Measure your ignition lead (spark plug wire looking things) length from a coil post to the plug. This will vary on where you install the pack.

I mounted my igniter above my fuel rail and my coil pack kit on the intake plenum. This is the coldest side of the engine and has a decent amount of room to play with. I also had to make some wire extensions to have it reach where I wanted it mounted.









I mounted my grounds from the igniter pack and coil pack kit to the original ground at the rear of the engine (just behind cyl 6). You would have had to take this off to get your loom out.



12. Plug in leads, label the ends with correct cyl and plug them all in.






13. Crank and then you're away!

Instructions say it should take between 1-2hours, but I took my time and took some pictures. Ended up taking me about 5 hours .

Hope this is useful for some!

D

[ybodnaruk]

Thanks Alot, it was really helpful