JF dry sump GTR

[collector240sx]

Hi,

First off, I have just bought my first skyline GTR about a week ago from
a friend who had lost hope on it. Basicaly he's a bodywork kind of man,
not really into the mechanical aspect. Fortunatly for me I got the car
for basically what he had done to it in body work, neadless to said the
body is now mint on it.

Unfortunatly, the engine is blown. It didn't bother me because I have
a 240sx with rb25det and had already bought a tomei fully counter
balance crank shaft, Carrillo rods and JE piston's barely used from
a guy in England last year, and was just planning on putting it in the
skyline. When I purchased the parts I had noticed some detonation on
one of the piston, but didn't pay any attention. Unfortunatly I have
recently noticed that the damage is worst then I had anticipated. The
middle of the piston has basicaly caved in a little and I no longer am
planning on using them.

My first choice would most definatly be tomei with cooling channel,
but unfortunatly the budget right now doesn't allow it right now.
Since I already have my mind set on a dry sump setup.

Right now I'm trying to explore my option, option that would allow me
to finish my built bottom block so I could enjoy that car this summer.
I don't plan in pushing much power right away in fact I have just
purchased some stock turbo's to repace my own who had bend shaft.

You could said I'm a patient guy who like thing build right the first time.

I have heard of people using sr20 piston because of the bigger wrist pin,
I would really like to know what is your vue on this setup. Is it worth it ?

I'm also considering rebuilding the engine with the stock part, since
material has already been added to the crank shaft, and it would
only need to be machine. The stock piston are still good and I would
only need one more stock rod to have a stock bottom. So I could take
my time and build the other engine like I really want.

I will be adding picture off the car every time I can, and will also try
to show every modification has detail has possible when I do them.

I will be adding a list of parts that I have and what I will be looking to buy.

But like most build espect updates to be slow. lol

Edit: The girlfriend found 2 pics of the cars 2 years ago at a local car show
since they are the only pics I have I thought I might has well post them.

[mcfly]

You don't need a bigger pin, 21mm is more then enough and you can get 22mm rods/pistons off the shelf if you want.

Do you require a dry sump? What will your car be used for and what rpm are you going to turn it to? Judging by the fact you did not mention anything head related i will guess you are keeping it fairly low key in which case a 3500 dry sump system wont really be in the budget either

[collector240sx]

Thanks for your input, but the dry sump is already ordered.

I don't mind building my own dry sump setup, since it's going to
cost me about the price of a tomei, greddy or jun oil pump. lol
And I'm pretty sure that every gtr around my place have had
the curse of the broken oil pump.

I don't mind putting money in a car, what I don't like it putting
money in a cars twice because it wasn't done right the first time.

I'm pretty mutch set on rebuilding the block with stock parts
right now, just because I would like to enjoy it for the summer,
but I will be building an other engine on the side. With all the
goodies. Just need a good spare block (I already know where
there might be one), pistons (not sure wich one yet), ARP bolts,
and bearings. Of course there will be some machining involve too.

But, yeah except for the dry sump the engine should be close to
stock, the head will just be port match for now and the cams are
going to stay stock. Might be getting the AEM EMS in a month
or two, not sure yet.

Here a little list of what the other engine should consist of :

RB stock block ( checked for ...)
Tomei fully counter balanced crank (already have it)
Carrillo rods (already have it)
???? pistons ( would like tomei with cooling channel )
???? bearing (not sure yet )
ARP main, head, rod bolts
Head will have 1mm over size intake and exhaust valve.
??? cams ( should have around 280 duration 9-10.8 lift)
??? spring (double spring)
titanium retainer clips
(I seen someone using 2JZ lifter buckets, but I'll check)
A port job on the head
Thinking of a HKS manifold
With T51R (SPL or KAI)
???? waste gate
Might keep my sard blow of valve
??? Injectors (1000cc +)
??? fuel pump (undecided yet, maybe a weldon or aeromotive)
other misc items
HKS 4'' intercooler (already on the car)
Exhaust might be over size from the 3.5'' on it to over 4'' if I
can find the pipes around here. Will be custom made.
??? intake ( not sure yet will see)
Upgraded tranny ( not sure getrag, ppg, ...)
??? upgraded diffs
Maybe upgraded CV shafts and drive shafts
I know theres more ...

Will be aiming for 800hp at the wheel, maybe more will see then.

I might have to sell my RB25DET 240sx to finish this build, if I loose
patience, but I will still be able to play with my girlfriend soon to be
2JZ powered 240sx. lol

Now, my biggest problem is my girlfriend is jalouse of my new
acquisition. lol

P.S. A lot of the parts I'm after might need to be ordered from
out of the country, soo those are the one I'm going to take my
time on and wait till the $can goes back up at least a little bit.

P.S.S. I know the price of a build like this, the reason the price
aren't there, is if by any chance the girlfriend where to see this,
I would be has good has dead. lol Aldo I'm starting to wonder
wich is more expensive. :roll:

[collector240sx]

Damn, forgot the engine will see about 10k-11k rpm.

The dry sump I bought is a weaver 4 stage dry sump.
Oil cooler not sure yet but might be using Mr. transmission
oil cooler the 11'' by 11'' one and use a small fan behind, that
would come on when oil would go over a certain temp.
Filter will be relocated to where the batterie is usually, the
red top optima will be in the back of the car, with welding
wire bringning power up front ( 0 guages lol ). I'm still
looking for my oil tank, might go with a moroso or a paterson.
And I'm not sure yet where I could get an oil termostat.

I'm wishing that I'm going to be able to make the dry sump fit
under the alternator. This way I could keep the A/C, for now.
Keep in mind I won't always be alone in the car, my alpine
type X sub (1000w rms) might be able to muffle her voice.
But the girlfriend knows how to trow a punch. lol

[collector240sx]

Just an update, got some stuff in.

so here is my new (used) dry sump.



Found a Remote Oil Filter/Thermostatic Oil Cooler Adapter Kit. Now just got
to check if that diesel filter is going to fit, for less than 5$ it's worth a try.



Also found this from the same seller, had 2 size and I couldn't choose,
so I bought both, here is a pic of the smaller size. Should receive the
other one soon.

[falcon]

haha... ****.


I wish the greddy kit that I installed had the "use backup wrench" warning... would have saved some time fixing my mistake

[EtienneGignac]

What does that mean exactly ?

[bignate]

What does that mean exactly ?

I think there is a hex below the fitting on the cooler that your need to hold with a wrench while you tighten down your fitting on the hose end, am i correct? Probly to stop you tearing the fitting off.

[NismoS-tune]

I'm always happy to see a car owner/builder talk about all the parts they want but then I get way more exited when he actually has the money to put where his mouth is. Sadly, I'm nearly $30k+ into my car and still no engine components... so right now, I'm all talk lol. You know what you want, not let's see this through. I need encouragement to one day start my project car. My wife oversees many of my purchases sadly.

[Andrewc]

Damn, forgot the engine will see about 10k-11k rpm.

From what i understand, making power at this kindof rpm with the rb26 requires massive modifications to the head, not to mention every other part of the engine. Back a few years ago i used to read up on exvitermini and he dumped a ridiculous amount of money into his gtr to achieve the best possible numbers with it. Not sure if his site is still around or not, but if i remember correctly his went up to 12k or so. Personally if i had the cash for it, i would most likely go for a hollinger (os giken also makes one, not sure if its just a hollinger though) gear box instead and build a reliable rb26 without the high rpm setup. That's really dependent on what you plan on doing with the car though.