Project Dry Sump

[xcye]

I just finished building a dry sump system on my R32 GT-R. I believe it is first GT-R with dry sump system built in Canada. Everything works as expected. Idle oil pressure is at a solid 35psi, while the maximum pressure is adjustable.

I plan to produce a kit, if there is enough interest. So if you are interested to dry sump your skyline, please let me know by pm.

I will update thread with more details once I get some free time.

Here is a small update on the setup.

Here are some pictures of the finished product.

Oil Filter and Cooler Block

Aviaid Series2 4 Stage Dry Sump Pump and Front Oil Pickups

Mounting Bracket

Rear Oil Pickup

[gtrjon]

id be in for more info then price of course

[collector240sx]

Hi,

Nice setup, would have had mine done 2 years ago if it wouldn't be for my girlfriend. lol
I still love her. When you have a plan, it's always good to stick with it, otherwise it's
expensive and you go nowhere. If the Tomei goods ever sell, should have a dry sump
RB30 next summer.

Do you have more pics, would love to see how the dry sump oil tank fits, where you
passed all the lines and do you have any pics of under the alt. I wanted to put my
weaver 4 stage there, but by your photo, I'm starting to think the sway bar is
going to be a problem as it is, not even considering I wanted to drop the engine a
little because of the taller RB30 block.

And is that a 3 gal. oil tank ? how much oil does it take to fill now ? Do you use heaters to
warm your oil ? and how long does it take to bring the oil up to temp ?

I didn't see any oil coolers, are you thinking of adding one down the line or is your temp
already good enough with the added capacity. Have you even looked into adding one ?

Edit: How many teeth on both dry sump wheel and harmonic balancer wheel. Just to see
what ratio you went with ? Also what kind of oil and temp. where you running for that
35 psi idle pressure ?

Sorry about all the question, the thought did cross my mind to set up the system on the
stock engine I'm building to get the car moving again.

Thanks
J-F

[shaggy]

sweet setup, man! keep us updated

[xcye]

The whole process was basically a never stopping try and error process, since the GT-R engine bay was so confined. There were a lot of frustrations and pains during the process.

Currently the whole setup includes:
A 4 stage AVIAID series 2 pump.
A 2.5 gal oil tank (A 3.5 gal oil tank will fit as well) The total OIL that in the whole system is about 8-9L.
A oil breather tank
A Greedy Oil Filter relocation block with oil cooler output. (the oil cooler is in the passenger side fender well)
A custom made aluminum adapter which mounts the pump at the stock A/C compressor location.
A 1000hp ATI crank damper
A custom made mandrel for the damper.
A set of HTD drive gears and HTD belt.
A HKS oil filter relation Engine block adapter. (the stock oil cooler block is removed, as it does not do anything with dry sump setup)
A modified oil pan with 4 oil pick ups. (Only 3 are used currently)
A custom made oil pressure and temperature sensor adapter block with AN 10 fittings.
All scavenging lines are AN12 Earls Pro-lite. All pressure lines are AN10 Pro-lite (But, you can use -AN 16 for the scavenging return and -AN 12 for pressure lines as well).

I have thought about putting the pump under the alternator. But the pump would be too close to the sway bar. I noticed that there was dry sump setup from a NZ company which puts the pump under the alternator. However, besides $8000 price tag, they require whiteline sway bar and there is no way to fit lines larger than -10

The OIL heats up just as quick as stock setup in this warm summer weather. But, I do plan to add a warmer in a later date. A 150w battery warmer should fit around the tank nicely. If it does not, I will weld up a fitting on the tank and put an in-tank heater.

I will put up more pictures once I upload them from my camera.

Regarding the price of the kit, I do not know yet since I have not decided what are going to be included in the kit. I will figure all this out if there are enough demand on such a kit.

[DJ]

Im interested if the price is right

[xcye]

id be in for more info then price of course

Im interested if the price is right

I am thinking of producing a core kit that only includes essential items. So I can keep my job simple and you have the flexibility of choosing the parts you want.
The kit in mind contains:
A Stage 4 AVIAID Series 2 oil pump
A custom CNC machined aluminum adapter that mounts the pump to the engine.
A custom CNC machined aluminum mandrel for ATI 1000hp damper
A set of HTD drive gears and a HTD belt
A custom Peterson dry sump Oil tank (2.5Gal, 3 Gal or Per your request dimensions)
A engine oil feed adaptor

The price will likely to be around $3500.

Regarding the OIL pan, I can modify it for you with a fee (how much the fee will be depends on how you want the pan to be). Or I can help you to have one made either by yourself or some welder you trust.

Let me know what you guys think. (Please keep in mind Hi Octane charges close to $9000 for their setup)

Hi,

Nice setup, would have had mine done 2 years ago if it wouldn't be for my girlfriend. lol
I still love her. When you have a plan, it's always good to stick with it, otherwise it's
expensive and you go nowhere. If the Tomei goods ever sell, should have a dry sump
RB30 next summer.

Do you have more pics, would love to see how the dry sump oil tank fits, where you
passed all the lines and do you have any pics of under the alt. I wanted to put my
weaver 4 stage there, but by your photo, I'm starting to think the sway bar is
going to be a problem as it is, not even considering I wanted to drop the engine a
little because of the taller RB30 block.

And is that a 3 gal. oil tank ? how much oil does it take to fill now ? Do you use heaters to
warm your oil ? and how long does it take to bring the oil up to temp ?

I didn't see any oil coolers, are you thinking of adding one down the line or is your temp
already good enough with the added capacity. Have you even looked into adding one ?

Edit: How many teeth on both dry sump wheel and harmonic balancer wheel. Just to see
what ratio you went with ? Also what kind of oil and temp. where you running for that
35 psi idle pressure ?

Sorry about all the question, the thought did cross my mind to set up the system on the
stock engine I'm building to get the car moving again.

Thanks
J-F

I get 35 psi at the following condition:
Full synthetic 5W40 LUBRO MOLY
Engine rev at 950 - 1000 rpm
90 Degree OIL Temperature


The ratio largely depends on the pump anyway. So, the ratio I use won't work for the weaver 4 stage unless both pumps have the same spec. If you can let me know exact spec of your pump, I may be able to help you out.

[xcye]

A few more pictures:

The tank is at where the stock BOV is


The oil cooler is in the passenger side fender


A push fan is the only option if the rad stays at its stock location.

[collector240sx]

The ratio largely depends on the pump anyway. So, the ratio I use won't work for the weaver 4 stage unless both pumps have the same spec. If you can let me know exact spec of your pump, I may be able to help you out.

Thanks for all the info and pics, helps a lot.

I already have gears to give me close to 2:1 with what I calculated should be close for the RB30 and my pump.
I don't mind doing a couple of trail and error, thats how we learn.

I'm glad to see how well the oil tank seam to fit there, but now I'm wondering if I'll be able to fit a pusher fan
behind my fat HKS intercooler, damn bugger is massive. The A/C fan is barely clearing it by a few mm. Unless
I'm able to back the radiator a little bit, hum.... And is it just me or is the oil tank pretty close to the intercooler
piping ?

Now the only other thing that is bugging me, is the clearance around the alt., since I already know the dry
sump is bound to hit the sway bar. I don't mind just redoing a whole new bracket for the alt. to raise it, as
long as there is space. Since the R30 block is a little taller I'm expecting a little of room, I just hope it's going
to be enough to let me lower the engine too.

BTW I see that you don't have anything to stop the air from going around your radiator (shroud), are you
going to fit some panel or just leave it open ? I have seen some noticeable difference from this simple mod.

Do you have a back up in case the belt snap/falls off ? I was looking into plumbing an electric pump, has a
primer and a back up, but they need a lot of juice, are not all compatible with hot oil, and would add
weight and more oil lines.

Do you have any video of your car and more pics of your oil pan ??

It's too bad there's not more people going to a dry sump system, keep up the good work.

[xcye]

A pressure side lines, Greddy Oil Filter Block, and A oil cooler.
(I do not really like the Greddy Oil Filter block, since the oil goes throught the filter first then to the cooler. Therefore if the cooler gets crashed then debris would go into the engine. )


A custom made adaptor block for oil temperature and pressure sensor.
There is how some of the lines are routed. The one, which is the lowest in the pictures, connects to the oil tank.



A custom made OIL temperature and pressure sensor adaptor block. It connects directly to a HSK oil feed to the engine. I made it since I want to know the pressure and tmeperature right before it enters the engine.



This is the HKS oil feed to the engine.