thinkin bout swapping out the twins and puttin a single gt35r turbo in my r32 gtr. any input is great thanks.
thinkin bout swapping out the twins and puttin a single gt35r turbo in my r32 gtr. any input is great thanks.
1991 nissan skyline gt-r
1991 nissan hard body 4x4
1993 nissan hard body (drift truck project)
this horse has been beat to death so manyyyy times seriously.
1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R:512awhp @ 18psi on rgs dyno
I'm still running a completely stock setup but i believe you will need:
1. A new high mount manifold, if I ever went big single I would go a 6 boost, they are widely used in Aussie land and are twinscroll and the whole works http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for..._fromsearch__1 (the site is under construction right now but this is a used product someone is selling)
2. Then you will need to run steel braided water and oil lines because your stuck ones won't match up
3. your going to need to get a custom downpipe made to go from the turbo to your exhaust
4. Your gonna need to make some custom intercooler piping from the turbo to the cooler
5. If you wanna actually crank some numbers out of it and get it really spinning your going to need Bigger MAF's or ditch the MAF's completely and go with a MAP setup but you need an aftermarket ecu for that and will need to tap the MAP Sensor into your intake plenum
6. Then there is fueling, you will need a way bigger fuel pump and a second inline pump and also injectors and possible a fuel rail to deliver all that fuel
7. Now you have to go get it tuned so u don't lean out your AFR's and melt a piston and you will need to take it to a professiOnal to have it dyno tuned to keep the AFR's in a safe range under boost (14.7:1 out of boost and I think people usually tune in the 11-12:1 range under full boost) and he will set your timing for maximum torque and turbo spool
8. For the dyno tune your gonna need a wide and oxygen sensor to monitor your AFR's and also water temp, oil temp, oil pressure and boost would be the minimum amount of gauges I would get.
Oh I almost forgot you'll need an external wastegate to control the boost pressure and a metal head gasket and ARP head studs cuz over 14psi the stock ones don't last long
That's all I can really think of off the top of my head
I'm still running a completely stock setup but i believe you will need:
1. A new high mount manifold, if I ever went big single I would go a 6 boost, they are widely used in Aussie land and are twinscroll and the whole works http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for..._fromsearch__1 (the site is under construction right now but this is a used product someone is selling)
2. Then you will need to run steel braided water and oil lines because your stock ones won't match up
3. your going to need to get a custom downpipe made to go from the turbo to your exhaust
4. Your gonna need to make some custom intercooler piping from the turbo to the cooler
5. If you wanna actually crank some numbers out of it and get it really spinning your going to need Bigger MAF's or ditch the MAF's completely and go with a MAP setup but you need an aftermarket ecu for that and will need to tap the MAP Sensor into your intake plenum
6. Then there is fueling, you will need a way bigger fuel pump and a second inline pump and also injectors and possible a fuel rail to deliver all that fuel
7. Now you have to go get it tuned so u don't lean out your AFR's and melt a piston and you will need to take it to a professiOnal to have it dyno tuned to keep the AFR's in a safe range under boost (14.7:1 out of boost and I think people usually tune in the 11-12:1 range under full boost) and he will set your timing for maximum torque and turbo spool
8. For the dyno tune your gonna need a wide band oxygen sensor to monitor your AFR's and also water temp, oil temp, oil pressure and boost would be the minimum amount of gauges I would get.
Oh I almost forgot you'll need an external wastegate to control the boost pressure and a metal head gasket and ARP head studs cuz over 14psi the stock ones don't last long
That's all I can really think of off the top of my head
Seriously? GT-R Projects?
RB25 Powered RWD GT-R
great thanksdo you think i should? or do you think i should stay twin turbo?
1991 nissan skyline gt-r
1991 nissan hard body 4x4
1993 nissan hard body (drift truck project)
I was also thinking about the gt35r, because my T04e was leaking oil and had been rebuilt 3 times already. Luckly for me my car came set up as a single when I bought it, saved a lot of $. If I were you I would stay with the twin setup unless you wana go real big hp then single should be considered. If you are going single check out Borg Warner turbo's, better bang for the buck.
Single turbo ftw<3
Rak123 pretty much hit the nail on the head.
I ran a GT35R with a .82 rear housing on my R32 GTR. Had great top end, but was very very laggy. Not a very good street set up. The costs associated with it are also far more than the initial cost of the turbo. If you're looking at running 18-19PSI for around 450AWHP, you'll definitely need injectors/fuel rail/fuel pump etc. An aftermarket ECU will also have to go in. I used an Apexi Power FC De-Jetro without any hassles. You'll also need all custom piping and exhaust manifold to downpipe.
The list goes on and on. I'm not sure how much things are in the US, but it cost close to $20,000AUD (~$21,000USD) for the set up including all supporting mods. Also, what's your end power goal? If you're only chasing early to mid 400's, I'd suggest maybe some smaller turbos for better response. GT2530's are very popular with GTR owners here.
But when that external wastegate opens and you get sucked into your seat.. you'll forget about the gaping hole in your wallet.
Trust me.
Last edited by Gojira; 10-24-2011 at 12:06 PM.
Current car:
1999 R34 GTR V-Spec
Past cars:
1994 R32 GTR V-Spec II
1998 R34 GTT
1989 Z32 300ZX
i got 478 awhp right now. i got after market ecu. i really just wanna be the fastest car around my town haha . thanks for input everyone![]()
1991 nissan skyline gt-r
1991 nissan hard body 4x4
1993 nissan hard body (drift truck project)
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