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Thread: Hicas or not? / Solid rear bushings

  1. #1
    GTRCer
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    Hicas or not? / Solid rear bushings

    Hicas or not? / Solid rear bushings

    What’s the better way to go for handling: to keep the hicas system, put in a lock bar or change out the rear sub frame from a non hicas car like an early 90s 240?

    I have heard a lot of people say a lot of different things about hicas but have never gotten any really good info to make a decision upon. I have the rear sub frame dropped out of my Gtr right now so I thought it’s time to make a decision about how it’s going to go back together.

    When the car is finished I am shooting for a 500-650whp car that will mostly just be a street car and only see the track a few times. Not sure how well the hicas will do with the extra power?

    Also does anyone know how well the AMS solid bushings on the rear sub frame perform and what’s the best way to remove the old rubber ones?

    Anyone who has some knowledge on this will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    GTRCer
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    If I were you, I'd delete the Hicas with a lockbar and replace the bushings with Nismo ones.

  3. #3
    GTRCer S13Jordie's Avatar
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    I had AMS aluminum subframe bushings on my 240 and they provided a solid feel. The car slid smoothly but was still bearable to drive on the street. To get the old bushings out, pull your subframe and set the old bushings on fire with a torch. Let them burn out, then use a hacksaw/sawzall to cut the metal ring out. just be careful not to cut through the actual subframe.

    For easy installation, put the ALuminum bushings in a freezer overnight before the install. Use your torch to heat up the subframe. Expansion of the subframe due to heat and the contraction of the aluminum bushings allows the bushings to slide into place with a little persuasion from a rubber mallet

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