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Thread: first startup after engine build, no exhaust is this OK? any suggestions or tips?

  1. #1
    GTRCer R32GT-R's Avatar
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    first startup after engine build, no exhaust is this OK? any suggestions or tips?

    I am starting my new engine for the initial idle and 2000 rpm idle breakin and setup. is it OK to run it with just the down pipe on, i.e.. no exhaust. will this reduction in back pressure hurt anything. it will still have some, just not as much as it would with the exhaust on.

    any tips?
    Last edited by R32GT-R; 11-20-2011 at 06:33 PM.
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  2. #2
    GTRCer Skym's Avatar
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    Louder, might be harder to start (use throttle), A/F ratio might be affected due to narrowband or wideband o2 sensor is close to exhaust exit (I think more oxygen / o2 = lean), if on stock type of downpipe only. Also can't run wideband back enough in frontpipe to get accurate reading (less turbulence), as there isn't a frontpipe to put it into.

    At least fill turbo or turbo's with oil, so don't dry start. Dry start can cause early turbo failure.

    If have new cams, cam break in procedure -

    http://www.camshaftshop.co.nz/index....procedure.html

    It mentions filling crankcase with oil.
    Last edited by Skym; 11-20-2011 at 08:34 PM.
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  3. #3
    GTRCer R32GT-R's Avatar
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    great article thanks...
    Trust T618Z,Carrillo Rods,CP Pistons,Tomei 280 10.8 lift ProCams, Tomei Spec C Springs, N1 Block, ARP, ATI, ATL, Bosch 044,Sard 800cc,PFC,Z32 etc.......

    FS: tomei 2.6 full counter crank, reground/nitrated.

  4. #4
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    Great info.
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    GTRCer R32GT-R's Avatar
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    it went good, video in my build thread, tomorrow i will take it for a drive if time permits
    Trust T618Z,Carrillo Rods,CP Pistons,Tomei 280 10.8 lift ProCams, Tomei Spec C Springs, N1 Block, ARP, ATI, ATL, Bosch 044,Sard 800cc,PFC,Z32 etc.......

    FS: tomei 2.6 full counter crank, reground/nitrated.

  6. #6
    GTRCer NismoS-tune's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R32GT-R View Post
    it went good, video in my build thread, tomorrow i will take it for a drive if time permits
    Wait, what? You didn't drive it the first time your started it? tisk tisk tisk. I guess we all break in differently, are you going with an easy break in?
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  7. #7
    GTRCer R32GT-R's Avatar
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    i kept revs cycling between 2000-3000 rpm , AFR at 14-16 for 15 mins to break in my cams, mate buckets to lobes.

    next time it starts it will be semi aggressively run for 100 or so kilometres up to 6500 rpm's.

    than its tuning time.
    Trust T618Z,Carrillo Rods,CP Pistons,Tomei 280 10.8 lift ProCams, Tomei Spec C Springs, N1 Block, ARP, ATI, ATL, Bosch 044,Sard 800cc,PFC,Z32 etc.......

    FS: tomei 2.6 full counter crank, reground/nitrated.

  8. #8
    GTRCer Dakota_gsx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skym View Post
    Louder, might be harder to start (use throttle), A/F ratio might be affected due to narrowband or wideband o2 sensor is close to exhaust exit (I think more oxygen / o2 = lean), if on stock type of downpipe only. Also can't run wideband back enough in frontpipe to get accurate reading (less turbulence), as there isn't a frontpipe to put it into.

    At least fill turbo or turbo's with oil, so don't dry start. Dry start can cause early turbo failure.

    If have new cams, cam break in procedure -

    http://www.camshaftshop.co.nz/index....procedure.html

    It mentions filling crankcase with oil.
    I just used lots of assembly lube with cams when i built my motor last year,
    And before you fire it up for the first time, disconnect the fuel pump fuse, and turn the motor over a bunch to get the oil pump pushing oil through the engine and parts.
    Or in my case, flow it out the oil gallery where i should have put a plug in
    Last edited by Dakota_gsx; 12-10-2011 at 11:02 AM.

  9. #9
    GTRCer NismoS-tune's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dakota_gsx View Post
    I just used lots of assembly lube with cams when i built my motor last year,
    And before you fire it up for the first time, disconnect the fuel pump fuse, and turn the motor over a bunch to get the oil pump pushing oil through the engine and parts.
    Or in my case, flow it out the oil gallery where i should have put a plug in
    You know, by disconnecting the fuel pump fuse, you'll still get some fuel squirted in the engine. That's why we disconnect the CAS instead no injection happens.
    Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
    Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. For sale. $5500
    Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior.
    White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

    Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

    start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
    lol

  10. #10
    GTRCer Dakota_gsx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NismoS-tune View Post
    You know, by disconnecting the fuel pump fuse, you'll still get some fuel squirted in the engine. That's why we disconnect the CAS instead no injection happens.
    This is on original build though. My fuel rail was taken out during the build, guess i should have specified that. But unplugging the CAS definitely sounds smarter. Thanks!

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