Strange Boost issue

[andy66]

As the title states im having a very stranger issue. A couple nights ago i left my car outside at my office while i was out of town overnight. Came back it had snowed a maybe 10-15cms and been really cold -10 - -15 and a with the wind chill it was around -30. Definitely didn`t plan on it being that cold here in the Okanagan overnight just a freak cold snap. Anyways the car ran perfectly fine on the way up to my office monday morning but when i came back tuesday night my new battery ( had it for maybe 2 months ) was dead from the cold . Got someone to jump start it , let it warm up really well before driving the car and started to drive home. Basically long story short when i`m driving as soon as /right before the turbos spool up it feels like ive hit a brick wall but even once they`ve spooled up somewhat its like im not getting any power. I have an aftermarket Greddy boost gauge and normally the car boosts to 1bar but now it wont go past 0.7 bar. Even when the car is creating boost it feels a lot more sluggish and slower then it should. I've read the whole fix your hesitation thread I just don't know how to attack this. What could cause my battery to die , and the car to not boost properly over night ?

[nimblestix]

wastegate actuator frozen/stuck? That a my quick guess

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[andy66]

That was something that crossed my mind but wouldn't the car being driven and the heat from the engine unfreeze them if they were frozen?

[feyd182]

Cracked IC couplers or boost leak maybe? There must be some sort of parasitic draw on your battery, the cold would help it to die even faster. Windchill doesn't affect cars, I run mine in minus 35 with no issues she just creaks and groans a bit.
I'd start looking for leaks, vacuum and boost and at least try to rule those two out. Frozen actuators are a possibility, but the problem should have cleared up after driving for a while with the heat created in the engine bay.
Hopefully it's something minor!

[DarkCaporaL]

If your boost went down it's either a leak in your system or the ECU is pulling timing for some reason.

[cschepp]

^ I've never heard of the ecu doing that. Can you explain that a little further?

[DarkCaporaL]

If the ECU detect knocks it goes into safe mode/richer/knock maps and restricts boost. Easy way to know if it's the ECU causing low boost is to reset it. The first pull you do should reach full boost but then the ECU will switch into safe mode right after if it's still detecting knock.

This can be cause by bad fuel for example.

There are a few threads on here with people that experienced this.

Skym is better at explaining this than I am lol.

[andy66]

I think i can rule bad fuel out it's the same chevron 94 it had it in all week leading up to this. The problem started after it sat overnight in the cold. I dont know much about fuel going bad though..Ill reset the ecu tonight when i get home from work and see if it will even hit full boost on the first pull. If it doesn't hit full boost i can rule out the ECU going into the knock maps right? So far ive ran a propane torch around the IC pipes and i didnt hear the idle change ill take the bumper back off and try again and try to do a boost leak test with an air compressor. Anyone have any pointers on how to do it right the first time haha. Any other ideas on what it might be?