Ignition or Fuel need suggestions !!!

[jdmtypes]

I'm looking for some direction in tracing a problem. Here's a bit of history, at the start of the season my car was having an issue firing up an running normal. Meaning it would start run for a bit then start to hesitate rpm's would drop up an down an the car sounded like it was going to stall. If I shut it off then it would not turn back over without a boost. It was suggested I change out the alternator which I did with a new one. It seemed to work for awhile, but now its back to doing the same thing, but less frequently. Funny thing is when it hesitates/ almost dies just my aftermarket afr an tach flash on an off too with the hesitation. It almost seems like the car is shutting off an starting back up, no other gauges/or anything in the instrument panel in the car flickers like that durning its episode. Now I have noticed that the last 2 times I have started the car I have to give it a touch of the gas pedal to get it to fire, the car sat for a year an half with a 1/2 tank of fuel in it. That fuel has since been burnt an new stuff put in, the fuel pump was a brand new tomei which got used about 1000KM before the car was stored. Not sure where to go from here, is it ignition issues, fuel issues, electronic issues ? ? ? ? I'm in need of some SERIOUS help !!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks in advance for any an all input.

Ar

[GTRADDICT]

TPS and check the batterie with a load test. Your car runs on the batterie which is maintained by the alternator. New fuel filter. You can always look at the MAF solders. Could give the MAF's a clean also.

Nick

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

Fuel pump relay. Rewire your tomei directly to the battery with a new relay and that should do it. I had exactly the same issue and bypassing the factory relay and installing my own directly to the battery solved it. The only thing you need from the factory harness is the fuel pump signal wire, it's what turns the pump on and off with the ignition.


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[Skym]

Hardwire fuelpump kit -

http://www.deatschwerks.com/products...stallation-kit

Random stutter = airleak just behind AFM's.

Faulty TPS can make engine stall randomly. But incorrectly adjusted TPS (not on idle contact) can make rpm needle drop below idle rpm when slowing down on a hill with aircon, light's, etc on. When TPS is on idle contact, ECU kicks rpm up when slowing down.