Help with broken turbo stud...

[Boot]

So after having my rb25 turbo fail a few weeks ago on my first drive of the year I decided I didnt have the cash for a new turbo and would just replace the 25 with my stock rb20 turbo for the summer and do a new turbo next winter. However while removing one of the 4 nuts holding the turbo tight onto the exhaust manifold the nut cross threaded and I busted the stud.

Thankfully the stud busted with an inch or so still sticking out of the manifold. Whats my best bet? Welding a nut on the stud and turning it out? Using an extractor? Which way do the studs turn out? (left or right?)

Does anybody have part #'s on those particular studs?

Thanks

[nelsonmxmarc]

I'm not sure how the oem studs are anchored, but if you're lucky, they're threaded inserts. IF NOT, worst case scenario you remove the broken stud with an extractor, clean the hole and thread the insert. Then you can go about replacing it with a short bolt as opposed to a stud.

Damn rb25 turbos.. Same thing happened to me on day one.. LOL

[amnash]

drill it out if you can get at it. rent a 90 degree drill from local hardware store? seems easier then welding

[Boot]

Thanks guys. Interesting. Ive never really seen a 90 degree drill in action. I guess welding just seems the simplest answer to me because I have access to one for free at a friends. But like Marc said, it depends on how the studs are anchored. There doesnt seem to much info on them. There's gotta be someone on gtrc who has done the same thing and removed the stud(s)?

This whole situation is the only thing keeping me from putting insurance back on the car and hitting the streets! Frustrating to say the least.

[amnash]

if it were me i would try soak in wd40 for a bit first then try some vice grips on there just to break the torque. not the best method but easiest to just try first. get the vice grips on nice n' tight. German tight. "goodN'tight"

[Boot]

Hahah the 'goodn'tight' vise grip method was the first one I tried! But I might give it one more go before bringing in the big guns. I think I might also try using a torch to heat up the area around the stud and hopefully that will break some of the corrosion loose.

[Supraclean]

Hey Boot the studs are regular screw in. So if you can weld a nut on it and try and take her out. Turning to the left will loosen it, it is NOT reverse or anything tricky. I wasn't so lucky and had 2 bust of inside. Damn cylinder 6 was the worst!

Also I would recommend putting aftermarket studs in aswell but ur engine is still in your car so Oem will do just fine so you can replace your turbo.

[craftz]

Yea, put some heat to it and then shock quench with water. If you have to try this method several times before drilling. The studs are much harder than the surrounding material. Start with a smaller drill and then finish with the proper size for threading. I have not had much luck with spiral extractors as they expand the stud you are trying to remove and sometimes jam it in harder. I have been through this on my own turbo and countless other broken studs at work. Carbide drills work great but don't ever break one off or you will be paying someone to EDM the stud. Also try "Release All" or similar penetrant. These compounds are much better than wd 40 at breaking down rust. Like Supraclean says, righty tighty, lefty loosey.

[Boot]

Thanks a ton for the info Craftz and Supra. I was pretty sure they were not reverse thread but its good to know for sure! Welding is probably the path I am going to try first. I want to avoid using drill bits and spiral extractors as long as possible. I will be at the shop tomorrow so I guess I will find out what method worked best or what worked at all.
Thanks again