Anyone here track their GTS on the stock 4-Piston calipers?

[MKIV]

I been looking into what I'll need for my first lapping experience next year, and everyone recommends the same things, suspension, brakes, tires, etc.

As far as brakes go, would the stock GTS-T/Z32 4-piston calipers suffice for a beginner?

And for anyone else who's upgraded, what do you upgrade to? (R33 Brembo's?)

[Zacho]

They will be more than adequate. Pad choice is really important.

If you want the stopping power, deal with some brake dust & some noise and get some good track pads. In my opinion it is a small trade off for being able to really lay on the brakes and know they will be there. Fade can sneak up on you. Just be careful with "street&track" rated pads. Do some research to avoid disappointment.

Being your 1st time out though, I'd take whatever you have provided it isn't economy garbage & your track isn't super hard on brakes. You probably won't be near as hard on your brakes as if you knew the track & your car.

[M13]

zero problem with good pads and fluid (fresh bleed a must).

was locking up wheels fine on every last lap of every heat.

[MKIV]

Thanks guys, I've done some reading on pads, looks like lots of guys use Hawk?

And I'll definitely make sure to bleed out the system before I go, thanks M13

[canu_50]

I personnaly track my car and sale track oriented part. I use some hawk hp+ on my daily driver monday night lapping car. The skyline will use pfc01 pad wich is a lot more aggressive. One important thing is brake fluid dot4 like the motul rbf600 or 660 or the gulf rf800-1000 is a great oil that will most likely be enough. Disc dony go all out brembo disc all around are worth 55$ a disc so at this price if u run the right pad you will not encounter waving. If you have any question pm me

[Skym]

Brake fade is due to heat transfer from brake pads to caliper to brake fluid. When brake fluid overheats you get brake fade. That's why you upgrade to 600+ boiling? point? brake fluid as mentioned above and fit brake ducting to keep brake rotors consistantly in a certain temp range. Also brake pads come in different temperature ranges. Street spec brake pads are low temp, racepads are high temp.

I would read this PDF, as is a good guide as to what is needed -

http://www.racebrakes.co.nz/pdf/brake_upgrade.pdf

For stock brakes, braided brake hoses (Nismo or similar with Teflon cover over braided hose to prevent dirt, etc getting into braid), brake master cylinder stopper (Cusco or similar), high temp race spec brakepads, brake ducting. Brake ducting should provide air to whole rotor, not just the middle of rotor.

With brake rotors, 2 piece brake rotor can be cheaper (replace disc part) than 1 piece to replace if on racetrack alot and tend to not warp as centre of brake rotor is separate to disc part (less heat transfer) and have a bigger gap down down middle of disc part compared to stock brake rotor which aids in better cooling of brake disc.

A good example of this bigger gap down middle of disc is on Project MU 2 piece brake rotors -

http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/prod...tor_scrpro.php

The best brake rotors that don't fade for whole race have the disc part made of carbon fibre, but very expensive.

[Daryl @ RightDrive]

Very nice post! ^^
As said, a good set of pads and fluid will do you well. Good pads include Hawk, EBC, Project Mu, Endless, Nismo etc. For fluids I've always used Motul 5.1, works great!

[canu_50]

The 5.1 is usually more expensive and doesn't withstand the eat aswell as the dot 4. The highest brake fluid out there is the castrol SRf but it is for sale at 100$/liter. You don't need that.

Also i know skym is talking about 2 piece rotors, but there are compagny that has 2 piece for dirt cheap, that i wouldn't personnally touch with a 10 foot pole. The plain brembo all around really does the job for those weekend lapper. And when you go in the real 2-piece you will be looking at 300$/disc the first time( DBA-PFC) and then pay 200$ per replacement, which is the same price as the dba4000 let say. ( i am not accurate on the price exemple here)

You are totally right in what you are saying, but for a starter not all of this is necessary, really start with good brake fluid and pads like the HP+ not to expensive and a very good for most user. Also what tire are you be running?

[MKIV]

Thanks for that reply, I'm really undecided about what brake fluid to use because I never knew how costly it can get.

As far as tires go, I haven't decided that yet. I'm running a 9.5" wide rear so perhaps a 255/r17 in the rear...but as far as brand I want something that's street legal and driveable because the Skyline is still 95% daily driver.

[Skym]

With brake fluid, go with what is recommended by brake specialist. But make sure it's 600+.

With tyres he probably means will the brakes overpower the tyres when braking. Are they street tyres , semi slicks, slicks, what brand??? Also does car have adjustable arms to adjust alignment (contact patch of tyre due to camber, etc settings)???

Alot of 1 piece stock type replacement rotors I've seen on track day cars get heaps of little cracks in them and need to be replaced after a track day. They are cheap to replace, but I wouldn't trust them on my car for alot of laps on track days with upgraded brake pads. The Project U rotors don't seem to have that problem on a GTR racecar with semi slicks. Just the normal wear and tear on the disc part. When I mean cheaper for 2 piece rotors, talking about Project U 2 piece vs Project U single piece rotors.

Also braided lines with Teflon cover help to stop leaking onto racetrack if rock hits brake lines. It does happen, even when on the road.

Brake master cylinder stopper helps to stop brake master cylinder taking a dive towards the road under hard braking. Must have with braided brake lines.

Also look into a external way to adjust brake bias from front to rear, as adjusting it correctly does make a Skyline brake better and get even rotor wear.