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Thread: RB25DET Neo Vs RB30

  1. #11
    GTRCer 91SkylineGts-t's Avatar
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    Was that a NEO Or Just a beefy RB25? Im waiting to hear today what the compression test is for the NEO motor But even if it bad i think im going to rebuild the motor with forged internals. And put a Semi-Retarded turbo on it and call it good with a few supporting mods like the fuel system EMS,BC and i think that will give me what im after. Or at least be a good start

  2. #12
    GTRCer Skym's Avatar
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    As far as I know a R33 RB25DET. I've seen a R34GTT for sale with a Neo RB25DET producing a claimed 550hp.

    Most with RB25DET tend to fit a stock RB26 bottomend (RB26 crank, RB26 conrods, RB26 pistons). I probably would keep the RB26 crank (R34 GTR RB26 crank), fit H beam conrods, forged pistons if was going to forge it.

  3. #13
    GTRCer 91SkylineGts-t's Avatar
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    So are you saying use a RB25DET/RB25DET NEO with an rb26 bottom end?? Instead of forged?

  4. #14
    GTRCer Skym's Avatar
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    I mean you could fit a forged RB26 spec bottomend (increased capacity) inside RB25DET shortblock for near to the same cost as a forged RB25DET bottomend. The extra cost is the stock RB26 crank, which might make the forged bottomend cost more. The stock RB20, RB25, RB26 conrods are forged I beam conrods. But as far as I know forged H beam conrods are stronger.

    There are 5 options with RB25DET (actually there are more options if you go with a stroked RB26 bottomend like RB 2.7 litre, RB 2.8 litre).

    Option 1 -

    Aftermarket forged RB25 pistons
    Stock I beam RB25 conrods (shotpenned, etc)
    Stock RB25 crank
    ARP conrod bolts
    ACL race bearings
    ARP mains bolts

    Option 2 (stronger) -

    Aftermarket forged RB25 pistons
    Aftermarket H beam RB25 conrods (they should be shipped with ARP conrod bolts)
    Stock RB25 crank
    ACL race bearings
    ARP mains bolts

    Option 3 -

    Aftermarket forged RB26 pistons
    Stock I beam RB26 Conrods (shotpenned, etc)
    Stock RB26 crank
    ARP conrod bolts
    ACL race bearings
    ARP mains bolts

    Option 4 (stronger) -

    Aftermarket forged RB26 pistons,
    Aftermarket H beam RB26 Conrods (they should be shipped with ARP conrod bolts)
    Stock RB26 crank
    ACL racebearings
    ARP mains bolts

    Option 5 (over the top but strong) -

    Aftermarket Tomei forged RB26 pistons,
    Aftermarket Tomei H beam RB26 Conrods (they should be shipped with conrod bolts)
    Tomei full counter RB26 crank (stronger than stock RB26 crank)
    Tomei bearings
    ARP mains bolts

  5. #15
    GTRCer 91SkylineGts-t's Avatar
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    Ok this might sound dumb but for option 5 would i be using the rb25 bottom end or a rb26 bottom end.

  6. #16
    GTRCer Skym's Avatar
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    Option 5 is more of a top of the line RB26 bottomend, designed for over 1000hp. Some who want more hp (big single), fit the HKS RB28 bottomend.

    When extracting alot of HP, you would also look at filling the short block with VHT block filler (increases shortblock strength) + fit a good quality aftermarket harmonic damper to stop shortblock from cracking.

    Info on the Tomei full counter crank -

    http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-ca...rankshaft.html

  7. #17
    GTRCer 91SkylineGts-t's Avatar
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    Ok well there is way too many options for the RB motors. Im still new to the whole import scene I wana get into drifting nothing crazy just like a weekend hobby. Im almost 100% sure im going to buy that neo motor. Like i said my goal is 450-550 hp. If you had the neo with 4000-5000 to spend. What would be my best best to get what im after?. Like i was saying my plan was just to beef up the NEO, Plus the supporting mods. Upgrade the fuel system,FMIC and a decent turbo. Would that get me close to what im after for my goal? If not please help me fill in the blanks

  8. #18
    GTRCer Skym's Avatar
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    There are few on this forum that drift. It's probably best to get some advice from them.

    But as far as I know some have drifted with 175rwkw. Power is not everything when drifting. But hp helps to catch up and stay with (or even pass if you are lucky, when the other dude screws up) a high hp driftcar on racetracks with long straights that go into tight S bends.

    Also drifting takes a toll on drivetrain (gearbox, driveshaft's, etc), engine, etc. Not to mention panel, bodykit damage from hitting other cars or other cars hitting you. Or even catching the curbs with bodykit or bouncing onto grass which removes the front bumper.

    I would aim for a reliable 400hp from the RB25DET NEO and concentrate on suspension setup, like Tein incabin adjustable suspension, GTR rear swaybar, welded in rollcage, shimmed stock R32 LSD (makes it act like a 1.5 way LSD). The weak points with 400hp, will be the R32 GTS drivetrain. Fitting a R33 RB25DET gearbox, custom propshaft, R32 GTR diffhead, R32 GTR halfshaft's can help to solve those problem area's.

    Below are some threads on SAU (Skylines AUstralia) with turbo specs, mods, etc to extract 270rwkw+ or 426hp+ at engine from a RB25DET (you'll need to login to view photo's) -

    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...r-t189495.html

    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...6#entry3100546

    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...6#entry3710806

    The above links give you idea of what mods you need to produce those results. Also I would add to the above mods in the links above -

    -Metal headgasket (1.2mm to lower compression to 8.5:1, like RB20, RB26)
    -ARP head bolts + ARP grease
    -Nissan repair gasket kit (used for rebuilds and includes intake, exhaust gaskets, sump gasket, camcover gaskets, etc)
    -Sump baffle plate (to prevent oilpickup uncovering and causing the oil pressure to drop, which can cause the engine or turbo to fail)
    -Engine oilcooler + sandwich plate with thermostat

  9. #19
    GTRCer 91SkylineGts-t's Avatar
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    Right on thanks alot man for all your help. You really know your ****!. I think Ive got a good idea of what I need to do/get to reach my goal. But as the the Roll cage. Are they a must have for drifting on a track. Cause i still want to use my car for Daily driver. I dont want fuly set my car up for drifting but i wouldnt mind giving it a try. But thanks for your help

  10. #20
    GTRCer Skym's Avatar
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    You're welcome. I don't know as much as some on these and other forums, professionals, etc, but thanks for the kind words.

    Here's a how to on shimming stock LSD -

    http://www.d1nz.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9610

    There are alot of people into drifting downunder, even some are using Holden cars with V8's + twin turbo's, R34 Skylines with Holden V8's (I think it's a Corvette V8 motor) + twin turbo's, which are different to import motors. Basically I've noticed V8's have power throughout power band instead of peaky power band with import motors. Also I've noticed even GTR (RB26) motors can have this peaky power band problem.

    Nissan use a Nissan V8 in their new R35 SuperGT racecar -

    http://www.autocult.com.au/NewsDetail.aspx?id=509

    If your more familiar with V8's, maybe fit a Nissan V8 motor, like this R31 Skyline with a Nissan VH41 V8 (This 4.1 litre engine sounds awesome bouncing of the rev limiter) -

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0sb2q7sfAk&NR=1

    Drive by -

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXDEX5TEXX8

    Here's the R34 Skyline drift car with twinturbo V8 -

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eloUq...eature=related

    Drifting, etc -

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Pl0M...eature=related

    VH45 (4.5litre) in a S14 -

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QOKsR...eature=related

    Where I am located, you can get away with a half cage, as long as your head doesn't hit the rollcage in a accident, which can be rectified with a race spec seat that has head bracing. If you go full rollcage, I think you need a motorsport authority card, log book, etc and must compete in at least 2 events a year. Rollcage is a must have in drifting, just for safety purposes, like hitting tyre barriers at speed, etc, which could happen. Most tend to trailer their drift cars to events.

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