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Thread: Dyno result short 10hp

  1. #1
    GTRCer clone's Avatar
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    Dyno result short 10hp

    Result 209hp goal 220hp(OEM)

    My goal this summer was to get this beet up type m back to OEM spec, safe and reliable.
    I wanted to learn how to get a skyline smooth running.
    building power will come later.

    first dyno was 194hp running lean, with spikes in the graph and belts flapping. "dangerous!!"
    1. A new walbro fuel pump balanced out the air/fuel ratio
    2. timing belt, tentioner, idler bearing,water pump, splitfire ignition coils, cam sensor, igniter,corroded wires to the ECU solved the spikes.
    3. compression test 150 across
    4. extras- 3" HKS cat back exhaust, 18" rims,hsd coil overs Apexi air intake

    I am happy with the results. honestly I though the work I did would get over OEM hp.

    The car is almost 20 years old but what else can restrict OEM power?

    The only things I have left are:
    -wires to ignition coils are old
    -release bearing on clutch is making noise
    -timing could be adjusted
    -Could tune ECU for 94octain
    -Plugs are OEM #6 should go to #7 for the splitfire's

    Any thoughts

    OLD DYNO RESULT
    ---------------



    NEW DYNO RESULT
    ---------------
    Last edited by clone; 10-08-2011 at 07:14 PM.

  2. #2
    GTRCer clone's Avatar
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    wait wikipedia says:
    GTS-t, Type-M – 2.0 L RB20DET turbo I6, 212 hp (158 kW, 265 N m)

    I thought it was 220hp
    mabey I am not far off

  3. #3
    GTRCer Bugsly17's Avatar
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    Hp is a fictional, calculated number. Torque is what you want.
    GTRC-OG

  4. #4
    GTRCer clone's Avatar
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    max torque 188.71 what is OEM?

  5. #5
    cschepp's Avatar
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    Torque and rb should not be in the same sentence. If you want torque get a ls1
    Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!

  6. #6
    GTRCer clone's Avatar
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    ls1 camaro????

    just want the car to run right..it feels good now..I'll get the new graph up as soon as I can get my ftp server to work.

  7. #7
    GTRCer DreadedFist's Avatar
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    Factory rating is 212hp. Crank horsepower. In other words, assuming a roughly 15% driveline loss, you're making good power for an old car running bolt ons. Keep in mind dynos read differently. The dyno local to me would probably say you have 170 horsepower.

    Don't put all your hopes in a dyno number either, dynos are a tuning tool. The numbers the put out can vary so dramatically between dynos that the true HP is anyones guess. Best way to calculate is to determine trap speed in a quater mile run. Don't get to focused on peak numbers either. Making more peak power won't make your car faster. Making more power at the RPM you're at right now will make your car faster.

  8. #8
    GTRCer clone's Avatar
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    Thanks thats the answer I needed.
    So with the 15% I am at 240 crank horsepower. I know that's not how you tune, but at least I know the car is running well.
    Last edited by clone; 10-07-2011 at 04:52 PM.

  9. #9
    GTRCer clone's Avatar
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    just posted the new dyno on the first Thread. What do you think. The curve is smoth. and A/F is I belive at the right point.
    anything else I should look at?

  10. #10
    GTRCer
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    I'm guessing that's stock boost?

    My old RB20 setup was similar to your as far as bolt-ons go, however I had GTR injectors and an Rb25 GTT turbo.

    264whp & 227lb-ft torque @ 14.7psi
    285whp & 234lb-ft torque @ 18psi

    I kept it at 1-bar to stay safe, and the 264whp kept me happy
    Because race car.

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