FS: 'Toro' Plug-n-Play Ls2 Conversion Harnesses

[ToroGTS]

I've been doing Ls2 Coil conversions on RB20/25/26's locally and selling a couple pre-made harnesses shipped.
These harnesses are the result of multiple tested designs, professionally soldered, loomed and sealed with heat shrink.
You will be required to solder or crimp (butt connectors provided) 8 wires, and fasten 6 wires to the oem coil bracket using the original screws. The full pictorial installation instructions can be found at the link below:

The Ls2 ignition conversion replaces the entire OEM ignition system forward of the ECU, eliminating the commonly defective OEM ignitor and coils. The Ls2 system sparks with 120 milliamp output versus the OEM 40 milliamp system, and will support power goals above and beyond what is safe for any internally stock engine.

The harness is sized and designed to fit into the engine coil valley and have coils mount in place of the original coil cover, but allows for various coil placement as you see fit:


A full plug-and-play harness, ready to connect to your coils and fire your engine, is ~$220 shipped (price may change with shipping location)



If you are confident that you can solder your own connectors, I can provide the harness without connectors for $150 shipped anywhere:

Parts new or used, and full installation locally (Calgary, Okotokes, Red Deer and surrounding areas) can be sourced or provided.

Please PM for details, or question and comment below.

Thanks

J

[ToroGTS]

HOW TO: Toro's Plug-n-Play Ls2 Conversion Harness Install

You will receive a harness in the mail, either with or without Ls2 connectors:



1.) Remove your negative battery terminal to protect your ECU and other electronics.
If you've received the complete harness skip to step 3.


2.) If soldering/crimping in your own connectors, solder the wires by color. Harness wires are all color coded, with the exception of the sequencer ground which is BLACK on the harness and BROWN on the Ls2 connector and my connector diagram below. Solder the 6 loose BLACK wires with ring terminals to the BLACK wire on your Ls2 four pin connectors.



3.) Remove your coil cover, then your old OEM coils while keeping the small screws for later use. Unclip the OEM ignition harness from the signal OUTPUT side of the ignitor, leaving the ignitor still plugged in on the signal INPUT side (the wire coming from under the rear of the intake manifold). In total you will be disconnecting one 3 pin connector and one 7 pin connector from the front (signal output side) of the ignitor. Remove all OEM coil system parts and set aside. You will never use or replace these again.


4.)You will see 6 individually labelled green wires, one for each cylinder.


On the signal INPUT side of the ignitor, you will see that each connector wire running into the ignitor is labeled with a cylinder #. Pry the back of the female part of connector off with a flat head to expose all the wires. I have labeled here as a precaution and to make demonstration easier.


Cut and strip back each signal input wire from the female side of ignitor connector (DO IT ONE BY ONE) and solder or crimp (butt connectors provided) each signal input wire to each corresponding green cylinder signal wire. I cannot stress enough that this should be done carefully for each wire separately. There is no margin for error on this step.

5.) There is a single RED wire on the main harness labeled '12V', this is your switched 12 volt power supply for all coils. There is a single BLACK wire on the main harness labeled 'G', this is your sequencer or ECU signal ground wire.


Crimp or solder the RED 12 volt wire to the middle thicker WHITE wire on the 3 pin connector you disconnected earlier. Crimp/solder the BLACK ECU ground wire to the left most wire of the 3 pin connector (looking at connector with clip on bottom side, see pic below). I left the 3 pin connector on here for demo purposes, but typically I will hard wire everything and get rid of this connector.


6.) At this point plug in your Ls2 coils and connector the plug wires from coil to spark plug. The remaining 6 short BLACK wires with ring terminals are your individual primary coil ground. The charge that goes through the plug tip grounds through this wire (and the plugs threaded head to block), so you should ground it relatively near the related plug. Bolt each ring terminal to the OEM coil bracket using the OEM small screws that had held in the original coils.


7.) Everything is complete. Reconnect your negative battery cable, crank normally and you should have your engine roaring to life with new vigor and sound. Typically there will be a moment of hesitation as the ECU reacts to the new, much more powerful and efficient ignition system. Here is a video of a first crank after conversion for comparison:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNcbZrcxhuY

For those with standalone ECU, to achieve maximum spark energy set spark dwell to between 4 and 4.5 milliseconds. Personally, I have observed that the coils may auto-discharge and cause misfire when dwell is set above 5 ms! I've installed or run this set up on several OEM ECU's or chipped ECU with no issue and all the positive benefits.

8.) Enjoy a lifetime of widely available replacement coils and limitless ignition capability.

[supersayianjim]

how much shipped to the states??? and do you have pay-pal??

[supersayianjim]

awesome!!!

[ToroGTS]

Ok I just deleted the whole tutorial thinking it was double posting in this thread..... time to re type I guess.

I would take Pay Pal, Email money transfer, Cash on Delivery from canada post. Will ship world wide.

Will pm you about shipping to the states.

[nick-nismo]

wow man $220's for some wires, i though this was supposed to be a budget mod. $220 is more than i paid after getting the coils, the plug wires, pigtails, custom bracket to mount them, AND built my own harness for it all. !!

[ToroGTS]

Those who have the time, skills, knowledge, tools and experience to feel comfortable pulling parts from junkyards and make their own harness will do that. The huge amount of people who want the certainty and convenience of having it made for them will buy a harness and plug it in. I value my time and money, spent driving around town to get parts and materials, sitting at my kitchen table after work cutting, stripping and soldering these things together, installing them on other people vehicles, taking pictures of everything I do and posting detailed DIY's that will help the people who get my harness, and those doing their own conversion who are confused about where to find a switched 12v source, what connector grounds and colors are what, ect.

[Dragon Humper]

And for those of you that are going to take this on, I humbley suggest that you take the factory 12v supply for the coils and use that to switch a relay to feed the coils. The factory supply is pretty pathetic and these coils will consume a bit less than double the current draw of the factory coils. I am willing to bet that the voltage is not quite up to par either. The relay will supply 14 volts and take the strain off of the 20+ year old factory harness.

It's also a great place to put a switch for a theft deterrent.



Jon.

[nimblestix]

^ +1

This is a good idea. I've completed this swap and posted a diy for anyone that is interested. However I did not include a relay in my installation and am now considering adding one for peice of mind.

Sent from a galaxy far, far, away.

[ToroGTS]

Thanks Dragon, that is an awesome idea and if I can get my hands on relays, I'll post pics for the DIY and include a length appropriate wire with terminal and relay in these kits. For the record though, I've never really seen any issues up to around 16 psi on an rb20 using the above 12v source. Unsure if there is a boost level that will compromise it.. With appropriate dwell settings I've seen guys pushing 20+ around the web.

J

[Dragon Humper]

The factory dwell settings are a touch short so that will help take the strain off of a purely stock retrofit. Still way more spark strength than stock. It's more the guys with an aftermarket ECU that can max out the dwell that will really draw on the factory harness. These coils are expected to draw X amount based on a motor turning 6000rpm max, 8000rpm and the dwell cranked up (approx. 170%) will really be pulling some amps.

Just a quick fyi.....

Jon.

[nick-nismo]

I guess it did take me all day to make the harness, and your time in money fair enough.
Just some usefull info.
I didn't have to start adjusting stock dwell untill 20 psi, now I'm up around 30% increase over stock. Holding fine @ 23 psi. Stock 12v supply aswell.

[cobrAA]

I would also like to see the aluminium bracket to fit in the engine bay. anyone has done it?

[ToroGTS]

The mounting rail pictured was made using the oem coil cover. Just drew a line 1.5'' along the left side edge and cut with a dremel cutting disc, sanded the paint off and drilled holes. Went to rona and got some longer brass screws and threaded a number of nuts onto them. Used a crown nut for the last bolt and viola.

[ToroGTS]

Now Posted on Ebay:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/251255526238?...#ht_500wt_1414

Currently have 2 with connectors made & ready to go.