+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 25

Thread: Suspension set-up and alignment specs

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Morinville, AB
    Posts
    939

    Suspension set-up and alignment specs

    i am currently installing a new suspension and need to know what other owners are using for alignment specs. the car is a R32 GTST and is going to be used for street driving and auto-X. does anyone know of a reputable shop in the Edmonton area that can do a quality alignment (without taking my car for a joy-ride...)

    Front:
    Apexi coilovers (lowered ~ 1.5")
    FUCAs (adjustable)
    Lower control arms (adjustable)
    front tension rod (adjustable)
    castor arms (adjustable)
    upper strut brace

    Rear:
    Apexi coilovers (lowered ~ 1.5")
    RUCAs (adjustable)
    lower control arms (adjustable)
    upper traction rods (adjustable)
    HICAS lockout with adjustable tie-rods
    upper strut brace

    thanks for your help
    Current Vehicles (yes...all of them)
    1991 Suzuki GSX-R 750,
    2006 Custom Chopper for sale $35,000,
    1991 Nissan Skyline GTS-ST Type-M (twincharged project),
    1991 Toyota Celsior C-Type Supercharged,
    1966 Pontiac Beaumont
    2008 GMC Acadia
    1965 Ducati 250 'cafe racer'

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Whitby
    Posts
    6,071
    Once you find a good baseline, I suggest buying a contact tire pyrometer and taking measurements on the track after each session. You will find that what tire you run + how you drive will affect the baseline numbers, so it's hard to really tell what a surefire bang-on setup will be unless the person has the exact same suspension, tire, race weight, driving style.

    I suggest getting it corner balanced as well.
    Race. Win. Live.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Morinville, AB
    Posts
    939
    so i need someone to give me a good baseline.
    Current Vehicles (yes...all of them)
    1991 Suzuki GSX-R 750,
    2006 Custom Chopper for sale $35,000,
    1991 Nissan Skyline GTS-ST Type-M (twincharged project),
    1991 Toyota Celsior C-Type Supercharged,
    1966 Pontiac Beaumont
    2008 GMC Acadia
    1965 Ducati 250 'cafe racer'

  4. #4
    GTRCer Transparent Skyline's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    264
    -2.5 camber
    1/32 toe in
    5 degress of caster

    -2.0 camber
    1/64 toe in

    I am running 245/45/16 hankook RS2 i am about the same right as you an have compatible parts list so this should be alright. This Set up has worked well for me in the past at auto X and track days tyres dont seem to chunk and heat even....But with this little amount of toe in its kind of a bitch on the road..

  5. #5

    frankiman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Montreal's south shore, Qc
    Posts
    3,113
    you can check out the GTR chassis setup database
    http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-tec...ase-49559.html


    and for the alignment, i just brought my car to the local Nissan dealer, the alignment guy also owns a skyline,
    told him what specs i wanted, and he put it all on the dot

    *** New chapter (46) - So fresh and so clean ***

    [links to all chapters in first post]

  6. #6
    GTRCer
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    237
    For the rear toe setting, I like a little toe out... it makes for a nice crisp turn in. Try 1\32 toe out. Remember, what is optimal for the street will likely not be optimal for the auto cross track and vice-versa.

  7. #7
    GTRCer Bugsly17's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    calgary
    Posts
    609
    Use oem specs.


    and nothing else.

  8. #8
    GTRCer Skym's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    South
    Posts
    6,702
    Factory alignment specs are good for factory suspension setup. But gives a good base to work from. Alignment specs depends on your setup (spring rates, shock valving, swaybars, ride height, tyre pressures, etc). Also application like street, racetrack, dragstrip, etc. Like for example on racetrack you tend to run more camber on rear for cornering, but on dragstrip you do the opposite when looking for maximum traction when rear squats.

    Also I would get a tool to measure heat across tyre, as it tells you what's going on with the tyres and can make adjustments to alignment, tyre pressures to suit.
    The most epic signature ever "epic".

    Yes, indeed, Let's Roll, (Yes, Let's ride the automobile)

  9. #9
    GTRCer plankworx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    464
    I ran this for a couple of grip sessions, worked quite well;

    front:
    -2.2deg camber
    1/32 toe-out
    ~8deg castor
    with your adj. lca's, widen each side by 1/8-1/4"

    rear:
    -2.5deg camber
    0 toe
    stock track-width

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Morinville, AB
    Posts
    939
    ok, so if it is mainly street (summer only) and occasional track?

    front camber: -2.5°
    front caster: 7.0°
    front toe: 0°

    rear camber: -2.0°
    rear toe: 0.5° in
    Current Vehicles (yes...all of them)
    1991 Suzuki GSX-R 750,
    2006 Custom Chopper for sale $35,000,
    1991 Nissan Skyline GTS-ST Type-M (twincharged project),
    1991 Toyota Celsior C-Type Supercharged,
    1966 Pontiac Beaumont
    2008 GMC Acadia
    1965 Ducati 250 'cafe racer'

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts