She wont start :(

[beng2k]

Hey guys

Well, I decided to light her up tonite, and after checking everything I could think of, it wont start. I did do a few mods since the last time I started it. Its an RB20 in an S13. I put an RB25 turbo on it and replaced all the gaskets. Never disconnected the O2 sensor.

I did put GTR injectors, and wired up some 10w10a resistors on each line before the injectors as per the sticky by Matt. I didnt have them flow tested, but I assume unfortunately that they are fine. I did go with a chipped ECU I bought from someone in the states. It was tuned by EO Performance. The ECU flashes a cool Code 55.

There is gas to the stock FPR and the Walbro is definitely pumping. I did rearrange my homemade FMIC. My AVC-R for some reason shows 0 with igniton, and only goes to about -20 mmHg when cranking. I dont recall what it used to do because I never payed attention to it.

I do hear a few clicking sounds, like relays, near the ABS actuator and windshield wiper motor on the passenger side, but I wouldnt suspect that to cause not starting.

I checked vaccum lines and didnt notice anything not connected. It was way to cold to give it a good check, even the garage was like so cold and its insulated. Any ideas?

Thanks!

[Stinky_1]

does it smell like gas out the tail pipe?

2 things and engine needs to start, gas and spark.

I am guessing that your tuned ecu was programmed for the bigger injectors? If not you are flooding your engine and it wont start. Keep trying it like that and the plugs will foul then it will never start.

If your sure the ecu is right for your injectors then its time to check spark. but I am putting my money on injectors flooding the engine.

[shore_rider]

Are there a couple relay things behind your ecu? i know that in my skyline that happened and i could hear the clicking and it ended up being a the ignition fuse under the hood. although my car wasnt cranking at all, but it's worth checking. good luck

[lucky_cefiro]

ok, mark CAS's position, unbolt it, remove it (don't worry only fits back in 1 way) turn the key to ON but don't crank the motor. Now go and rotate the CAS you should hear the injectors firing, you will also hear the fuel pump kick in.


This sounds similar to the problem i had starting the cefiro the first time after the injector, intake, fmic, turbo install. I found that by turning the cas a few times, then re-installing it would catch. It was one of those, problems (for me) that eventually solved itself.

[kelaog]

I heard that if you hit the crank sensor with a mallet it starts, or was it the crank motor... something like that LOL.

Ohh and I know I sound like I'm pointing out something that isnt' the problem, but!!!! I know rb's don't start unless the thermostat is connected and some other temp sensor.. give it a shot

[Stinky_1]

thats the starter that you hit with a mallot to start the engine. But that only works when the engine will NOT crank over. His is cranking, just not firing.

[JR]

You can "tap" MAP/MAF sensors to get things working as well. If you can get at the injectors check resistance on them. There is a good chance that if you did all that work and now it not starting, you may have left someone simple unplugged or unhooked.

[beng2k]

I'm also leaning towards injectors also, since its the only part I changed that would possibly have an effect on starting. Im pretty sure the ECU is fine, Ill take out a plug and coilpack and ground it to the block and check for a spark, and Im not overly comforatble taking the CAS off since I dont wanna fudge anything else up. I will also check for injector ticking during cranking though.

Im going to eat dinner and take a hot shower before I go outside to work on it again. Ill report back a lil' later once I know a bit more.

I seem to recall taking apart the things under the TB area and recall one spot on the TB that has a mini bung on it facing the cabin that I couldnt find a hose for.

When turning the CAS, does it have to go back in the exact same way and postition as you took it out, Im assuming yes.

Ohh and the ECU is reprogrammed for the 440cc injectors on Stock MAF.

Anywhoo, more to follow.

Thanks

[lucky_cefiro]

Brian, the Cas only fits in 1 way, it has a key cut in it.

So if you mark the cas and cam cover with 2 lines showing where you took it off, when you put it back on, line the lines up and everything will be gravy.

The "key" is a half circle, but the cas rotates side to side(like a distributor would), so be sure to mark it before you take it off.

[beng2k]

Taking it off would require removing the rad....which I just put in and refilled. As a second way I think of diagnosing the fuel/spark issue was I got my dad to crank it over while I listened for the ticking....but it was absent or my hearing sucks.

I then proceeded to take off out my No. 1 coilpack and remove the spark plug. It was dry, and didnt smell like gas. I thought it should.

There is no odor it the exhaust that I could notice. The resistance showed 0.9ohms on the No.1 coilpack. I didnt test the rest.

The resistor pieces were from Curcuit City. The were 10ohm10w resistors. They looked like green cylinders about an inch or so long, and no thicker than 0.7cm and had to metal pieces comming out of them. IIRC, I didnt wire them to the black ground wires for the injectors, I believe I used the other one. (Not sure of the colour)

If it was a fuel delivery problem, would it be more likely the ECU, injectors, or in the wiring of the resistors to the injectors.

I will try and check the resistance on the injectors tommororw, its supposed to be nice and warm What should the resistance be on them?

On a side note, where does the line comming off the FPR and the manifold go to?

Thanks!

[lucky_cefiro]

It doesn't matter what wire you attach the resistor inline to, 1 of the 2 wires and it works. It's really really hard to mess that up.


As far as the vaccuum goes, i have no idea, been so long since i played with a standard plenum.

[beng2k]

So its looking more like injectors or ECU than?

[beng2k]

I do not have an osciliscope to check the pulses. It really is a PITA to get to injectors 4-6 so I did inspection at the Midpoint harness.

Injector 1:

Resistance on Injector: 2.1ohm
Pin 2 Voltage: 11.5V
Pin1 to ECU Resistance: 00.4ohm

Injector 2:

Resistance on Injector: 2.0ohm
Pin 2 Voltage: 11.5V
Pin1 to ECU Resistance: 00.3ohm

Injector 3:

Resistance on Injector: 2.0ohm
Pin 2 Voltage: 11.6V
Pin1 to ECU Resistance: 00.5ohm

Measured at RB20 MId-Harness for Injectors 4,5,6.
Voltage Measurements were 11.5V across pin 3 and 4,5,6.

Injector 4:

Resistance between terminal 3 and 5: NO CHANGE

Injector 5:

Resistance between terminals 3 and 6: 12.1ohm (Supposed to be ~13-14ohm with RB20 injectors, Since the Rb26 doesnt have this midpoint harness, Im unsure of what the correct value would be. This should meausre 2-3ohms for the RB26 injectors?)

Injector 6:

Resistance between terminals 3 and 4: 12.1ohm


I think thats all the measurements I took looking at my scrap paper. If you need more info just LMK.

Thanks!

[beng2k]

Suggested to me by a friend was to run the stock ECU in hopes of determining if the ECU is operating correctly. Using the stock ECU, I still get no gas to the plugs.

Should I just buy new injectors with the right impedence, remove the resistors, resolder the wires and try?

[lucky_cefiro]

re-sauder the wires and put the stockers back in see if it makes a difference.

sorry i'm not near my setup or i could be of more help.