2860r-5 Turbo Shuffle

[Bruizer]

Nice!

What intake Y pipe do you have? It's unusual for garrett twins to never shuffle

I went to a different twin turbo kit to completely kill the shuffle rather than keeping my -5low

[DougTaylor]

I have a separate HKS pipes and mushrooms to each turbo, then outflow from turbos goes to a Greddy dual inlet FMIC.

[84ML32]

Hmmmmm HKS manifolds with an equalization pipe eh? I've been reading a little bit on the Aussie forums and noticed they mention something similar but across the charge pipes. Also reference the fact that the OEM charge pipes and inlet pipes were corrugated rubber which helps slow down the flow. They also mentioned that apparently the OEM recirc valves bypassed slightly in vacuum and just a bit above negative plus the two position wastegate solenoid (high/low). I have the OEM piping but the previous owner had removed the recirculating valves and the cross over tube. Also the resonator box was gone. I'm not gonna try sourcing this stuff out though. I have also read that depending on how severe it is the shuffle can be eliminated through tuning. I was thinking maybe baffling the charge pipes and wondered if anyone else has tried this? If so did it work? If I'm leaning in the wrong direction maybe I'll have to shell out for the manifolds...

[Bruizer]

I tried lots but in the end I went after more modern turbos and intake piping so the shuffle went away

[curtisgoodman]

i changed the twin turbo charge pipe to a custom one and mine went completely away and i had bad shuffle... now they merge into a Y at the bottom

[84ML32]

Yeah I think mine might be in the tune. I have the greddy charge pipe kit with the "y" collector near where it passes through the wheel well. Also have the greddy surge tank two piece intake manifold. Running the stock intercooler piping with a 3"-4" reducer at the inlet of the intake manifold. Stock exhaust manifolds and down pipes ceramic coated in/out. Stainless collector. OEM (brand new) cat and a 3" cat back apexi TI exhaust. Car doesn't lurch or hop when the shuffle happens, just annoying. Anyone had any luck with eliminating it through tuning? Anyone recommend good tuning shops in the GTA that have experience with haltech and RB's? Or maybe now just get a test pipe now that the emissions is good for another cycle? Maybe it's causing the restriction and causing the velocity to be too high before it leaves the cat?

[Bruizer]

Tuning can help some too... When was it last tuned again?

I have a used test pipe/decat for sale along with a new Tomei titanium decat pipe and a used said racing cat (designed to allow much more flow than stock but still be emission friendly)

Pm for details if you're interested.

[84ML32]

Got it tuned in the spring after the usual 6 month winter rebuild that ended up taking me 5 & 1/2 years. I don't doubt the guys ability but he seemed a bit unfocused and don't think he gave it as much attention as was required. I'm actually leaning towards the test pipe idea as its really not a bad shuffle compared to some of the stories I've read. However funds are holding me back from aggressively pursuing the fix at the moment (damn you Xmas!) Plus I need to sort out some minor fluid leaks which will hopefully be looked after this weekend. Thanks for the offer on the bits Bruizer, I'll PM you later about those.

[Bruizer]

My used cat delete is $75 if you want it... swaps in place in less than 10 mins if nothing is rusted solid.

[mista_mr2]

Anyone recommend good tuning shops in the GTA that have experience with haltech and RB's?

Contact Radek @ RS Tuning. He is a RB Specialist. He has tuned many of the MBAutocare skylines which have had great success over the last 5 years, most using stock motors with bolt-on goodies. I've been blown away with how much power he can make at low boost. His shop car is an BNR32 as well. He uses a proper dyno and does load-based VE tuning.


For the OP:
In my experience with 2JZ's and its twins, surging of the compressors is usually a direct result of the incorrect spring in the BOV. It's the most often overlooked component of a BOV, issues related to this are something that cannot be 'tuned out' as it is a mechanical issue.


edit: I just looked at the OP's location, didn't realize you're on the other side of the country... I would recommend finding a reputable RB/Nissan Tuner in your area and having a consult with them to aid in finding the gremlin causing your shuffle. With any luck they will have some parts/springs etc laying around to work with.

my .02

[84ML32]

I hear you on the spring selection. Mine should probably be replaced as I can't tell what colour it is (green,pink etc) however I even pulled both Bov's out and serviced them. One of the piston coatings was worn and was letting boost pass by even when shut so I made a blank off plate out of 3/16 plate aluminum and rtv'd it shut and capped that valves pressure hose. Nothing changed after I did this though. Still hear the surge very subtly at idle and it increases as you climb the revs until about 34-3600rpm @4-6psi. I removed the boost controller and have the wastgates operating with no valve so they are set at 12psi. I did this because of my limited knowledge of bov's and requiring to change springs at higher boost. Single BOV acts just as it should on throttle release in low rev (normal) or high rev shifts. And of course the RS website is down for maintenance so I can't even see his criteria for an efficient tuning session. Guess I'll call on Monday to pick his brain for a few mins. Thanks mista, for the .02

[mista_mr2]

http://rstuning.ca/#about

[84ML32]

Thanks Mista, still have to get my leaks sorted before I go see him.