1990 BNR32 from the USA

[curtisgoodman]

i practiced on a 4 cylinder vw engine for my first... old chev and ford v8s are pretty simple too... there's always machining that needs to be done by a professional and a lot of new specialty tools will need to be borrowed or purchased to measure tolerances and clearances... but it's doable for sure... winter, basement, engine stand, work bench...

[grapejuice]

i practiced on a 4 cylinder vw engine for my first... old chev and ford v8s are pretty simple too... there's always machining that needs to be done by a professional and a lot of new specialty tools will need to be borrowed or purchased to measure tolerances and clearances... but it's doable for sure... winter, basement, engine stand, work bench...

That's sort of what I'm leaning toward, the engine runs great other than not making the power it should and it's not burning oil as far as I know. But I don't have the money to build it right now anyway as I have wheels coming that I just bought, so will just drive it for now. I still want to tear into the turbos a little too to see what they are looking like.

I was also reading yesterday that altitude effects compression, being that I live in Denver we are over 5000 ft above sea level...so where someone may normally see 150 on a cylinder, here it would be around 128 which would mean my engine isn't as bad as I'm thinking.

[grapejuice]

So, I installed a new boost controller, Blitz SBC I-D to replace the old Blitz that came in the car which was so old it was hard to read the screen. And now that I can actually see how much boost I'm making, the car feels much stronger and makes me want to get the car back on the dyno. My tuner said the old controller wouldn't let him turn up the boost at all but starting to think he was just being lazy, but have it set right now to peak around 11.5 psi and the butt dyno feels more power for sure.

Also got my new wheels on which I got through Adam @ Feast, so excited to find these wheels and be in such good condition as well. They are 18x9.5" +15 Rays CE28n's and went with a 255/35 tire. Clay bar'd the car as well which really cleaned up the paint nicely!

[Special_K]

Nice wheel choice and the paint cleaned up well!

I agree with what others have said. Compression numbers can vary depending on many things. What's more important is that they're consistent between cylinders which it seems they are so I wouldn't rebuild until something breaks or you want to upgrade internals.

[grapejuice]

Nice wheel choice and the paint cleaned up well!

I agree with what others have said. Compression numbers can vary depending on many things. What's more important is that they're consistent between cylinders which it seems they are so I wouldn't rebuild until something breaks or you want to upgrade internals.

Thanks!

And I agree too, definitely not planning to just tear the engine down...will look into new turbos soon and upgrade the fuel system.

[bobbo]

When you did your compression test did you hold the throttle open?
It may have an affect on your numbers.

[grapejuice]

When you did your compression test did you hold the throttle open?
It may have an affect on your numbers.

Did not hold the throttle open, how would that affect it?

[amnash]

Ya get engine fully warm. Make sure your battery is good. Drop of oil into cylinder then crank WOT until pressure stops rising will give you most accurate reading in each cylinder. Needs to be warm to close ring gaps. WOT to let the air in better. And good battery as your just cranking the starter and if that's weak you'll get low numbers also

[Dragon Humper]

115ish is quite a bit low. My former RB with a T88 on it and pushing 800hp was in the 140 range which is pretty low (on purpose). Unless this engine was previously making 800+ and was stripped of all its go fast goodies before going to auction, I would say it is really tired and/or the cam timing might be way off and it is bleeding off compression. One tooth off on the intake would do that and it would still run decently enough.


By the way, my old car is in your neck of the woods, Colorado Springs.


Jon.

[grapejuice]

Ya get engine fully warm. Make sure your battery is good. Drop of oil into cylinder then crank WOT until pressure stops rising will give you most accurate reading in each cylinder. Needs to be warm to close ring gaps. WOT to let the air in better. And good battery as your just cranking the starter and if that's weak you'll get low numbers also

I'm definitely feeling like I need to re-test it as engine was pretty much cold since we did the front CV boots before doing the compression test, so it definitely had a few hours to cool off.

115ish is quite a bit low. My former RB with a T88 on it and pushing 800hp was in the 140 range which is pretty low (on purpose). Unless this engine was previously making 800+ and was stripped of all its go fast goodies before going to auction, I would say it is really tired and/or the cam timing might be way off and it is bleeding off compression. One tooth off on the intake would do that and it would still run decently enough.


By the way, my old car is in your neck of the woods, Colorado Springs.


Jon.

Yeah I definitely don't know the extend of what could have been on this car before or if the engine is even stock for that manner. There are signs of a few things that were on the car at one time then taken off...thinking my plan at this point is to get some new turbos, re-seal the valve covers and put a new fuel pump in (since I don't know what is in there) and re-tune. But first I still want to get it back on the dyno with the new boost controller and see what it makes now since the butt-dyno is reading higher.

Never seen your old car, you sold it with 800 hp I'm assuming?

[grapejuice]

Little feature and photo shoot a good friend of mine did for his blog, can also find my old GTST on there too.

http://rogue-spirit.com/2015/11/17/grapejuices-r32-skyline-2-0-now-with-more-gt-r/#more-511

[grapejuice]

Few updates, installed some adjustable rear camber arms as with the stock ones I was maxed out with adjustment at 3.5 degrees on the passenger side and 1.5 degrees on the drivers side. Also put in a Hicas delete bar even though my hicas already had the lock out spacers I came to find out. Fixed a couple power steering leaks and had the engine bay detailed, now ready for a little paint.


Also installed new wing spacers to replace the old cracked ones, snapped a quick pick with the wing off:


Starting to replace pieces around the engine to figure why I'm not making the power I should be, started with new yellow jacket coil packs. I currently have some Nismo turbos on the way from Adam @ Feast along with a new front pipe and catch can. Next will be ordering new injectors and fuel pump, planning to run E85 and then with all that installed go re-tune and see what happens!

[grapejuice]

Little set back, have the car at a window glass shop to strip the silicone off my rear window trim and replace the trim with new. The glass was loose already in the car so looked to be not an issue pulling the glass to make the repair. But when they where pulling the wiper motor out, something happened and the glass popped. Trying to find a new one now, well used new one since Nissan has discontinued this window.

[louis110]

ouch! that's known to happen when you try to pull the rear wiper motor out. Call Right Drive Parts. They stock windshields, but not sure about rear windows.

[grapejuice]

ouch! that's known to happen when you try to pull the rear wiper motor out. Call Right Drive Parts. They stock windshields, but not sure about rear windows.

I've already been talking with them and rear windows are discontinued, so they are checking on sourcing a used one. But found one in Florida at Rivsu, just waiting on a final quote and pictures! I did not know that was common when pulling out the wiper motor.