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  • GT-R Modifications and costs

    I think this covers most modifications and costs related to the engine. Most of the costs are on the high side. But I like to quote high rather than low.

    GT-R Upgrades and costs:

    Stock the GT-R is rated at 280 horsepower in Japan . This rating is conservative. The limiting factor here in California is our fuel which is 91 octane.

    There are many brands of parts , so the prices can vary . All horsepower ratings are at the wheels. The stock turbos will work up to around 400 wheel horsepower. Above this the ceramic exhaust wheel has been known to break off. These prices do not include labor . These prices do not include the cost of shipping if necessary. These prices do not include any maintenance items to ensure the vehicle is in good running shape , ie spark plugs , oil change , fuel filter .


    Basic Modifications (340 ?360 horsepower)

    Intake ($300 - $500)
    Exhaust ($700 - $1700
    Downpipe (frontpipe) ($200 ? 500)
    Twin plate clutch ($1500)
    Boost up to 1.0 bar peak with restrictor removal

    Cost: $2700 - $4300





    Intermediate Modifications (400-420 horsepower)

    Intake ($300 - $500)
    Exhaust ($700 - $1700
    Downpipe (frontpipe) ($200 ? 500)
    Twin plate clutch ($1500)
    Power FC , Commander , Boost Control kit ($980 , $350 , $380)
    Intercooler upgrade ($700 - $1500)
    Fuel pump ($450)

    Cost : $ 5560 - 6670









    Advanced Modifications (500 ? 550 horsepower)

    Intake ($300 - $500)
    Exhaust ($700 - $1700
    Downpipe (frontpipe) ($200 ? 500)
    Twin plate clutch ($1500)
    Power FC , Commander , Boost Control kit ($980 , $350 , $380)
    Intercooler upgrade ($700 - $1500)
    Fuel pump ($450)
    Transmission Upgrade ($3000)
    Camshafts ($1000)
    VG30DETT MAF ($780)
    Twin turbo upgrade ($600-$5500)
    Fuel Injectors (720 cc) ($1000)

    Cost : $11,940 - $17,950



    Above this horsepower level it is generally necessary to go into the motor and strengthen the internals , specifically the pistons.

    These are proven combinations of parts that will work to produce the specified power levels . These parts have been used in a number of vehicles. Dyno sheets , and drag strip time slips are available.

    In addition to these engine performance items . People choose to upgrade the brakes , suspension ,interior , exterior , wheels , and tires .
    Sean Morris




  • #2
    Good info Sean, thanks.

    It seems that an upgraded clutch is pretty much a must. Is that "just to be safe", or can the stock clutch just not handle mods?
    Chris

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    • #3
      I would assume the stock clutch is designed by the manufacturer as the most cost effective to produce clutch they can fit to handle the stock power with best/most pleasant usability for the majority of the intended customers. Its almost always a compromise of those factors. When you up the power expect the clutch to go up in smoke. Mild mods should be okay, but anything that will make a noticible difference in the performance will require a heartier clutch.

      ...Of course I don't own a GTR yet, but this experience comes from my old Z32, so I speak from *some* experience.

      JZ

      "Life's too short to drive boring cars!"

      Comment


      • #4
        I must admit that one of the beauties about the GTR/RB26 is the fact that with "little effort and cost", you can really have a street beast... okay, well not a beast - but more like a serious ass kick'n puppy!

        Also, Sean is my hero Hahaha!!!

        Cheers,
        KaOz.

        P.S. Usually you should replace the clutch on most used vehicles of this caliber... expect them to be driven hard and also, well... due to the age, you can only assume its condition!
        "Straight roads are for FAST CARS, Corners are for FAST DRIVERS!"

        TUNER SHOP:
        Absolute Motor Specialties (AMS INC)
        AMS Motorsports

        Comment


        • #5
          If your doing the famous 7k clutch dump, the stock clutch will only last a few times.

          I have an upgraded NISMO single, which is almost stock like, and will hold up pretty well for power increases.

          There are a lot of choices out there, look around. First thing is you have to figure out, what you are tring to accomplish for the car.

          If its a 1/4 monster, you are at least going to have use a twin, god forbid if go to a triple. I have never seen any triple handle street driving conditions.
          89 R32 GTR; 90 R32 GTR; 92 R32GTR

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Feyd
            Good info Sean, thanks.

            It seems that an upgraded clutch is pretty much a must. Is that "just to be safe", or can the stock clutch just not handle mods?
            7 launches...... the stock clutch will handle about 7 launches before its toast.

            And I mean a brand new stock clutch.

            7 hard dragstrip type launches and you will be traveling no where fast.


            If its a used older clutch , it might not even handle one good hard 7,000 rpm sidestep the clutch launch.
            Sean Morris



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            • #7
              Sean,

              What max SAFE PSI will a GTR's 15year old twin turbos be safe at?? Basically will I be able to run 1.0Bar on the stock 15 year old turbos RELIABLY??

              Steve
              Nismo stands for Nissan Motorsports, right? So then I guess Homo stands for Honda Motorsports?
              GTi-R, the baby \'zilla!

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Godzilla
                Sean,

                What max SAFE PSI will a GTR's 15year old twin turbos be safe at?? Basically will I be able to run 1.0Bar on the stock 15 year old turbos RELIABLY??

                Steve
                That's an unreasonable question.

                We don't know how hard the car has been driven by the previous owner.

                We don't know how hard you will drive the car.

                If you set the boost to 1bar, and proceed to putter around town below boost threshold, the turbos may last forever.

                Then again, if the car's been completely thrashed, it may not... or it may... every car is different.

                Sorry to be so vague, but old turbochargers are not the most reliable parts on the car.
                Nick

                Comment


                • #9
                  As Nick said , really hard to tell how long . I can not give you a resonable amount of time they will last.

                  Since they are ceramic exhaust wheels , they do snap off.

                  Also related to the turbos - depending on how someone cared for the motor - the bearings may not be good. It may only take a couple good blasts to last.


                  BUT , then again I have seen an R32 that was beat on a bit , with stock turbos . An the guy ran 1.6 bar of boost on stock turbos to run 11.81@120 mph on stock turbos.

                  Not something I would recommend.

                  I just got a couple of T28 turbos that are bolt ons. Steel compressor and exhaust wheels . 0.64 exhaust housings. Retail on them is about $1000 each. I have to see how they work out on this R33.
                  Sean Morris



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                  • #10
                    Are those t28 the same found on notch-top(s14) sr20det?
                    Along the way, I lost two wheels

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I dont know too much about SR motors..... but they are not like the ones on an S13 SR...

                      The T28 for the GT-R is 2 bolt in flange and 2 bolt out flange on the compressor side.
                      Sean Morris



                      Comment


                      • #12
                        this was some help as i am planing on buying a gtr and doing it up for targa once a sell my gts4. btw i jusy noticed tyndago we are friends on yourtube

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                        • #13
                          I got bout 30 good launches on my stock clutch 92 GTR. Intake, Straight piped from turbo back, removed boost restrictor. My first pass I didn't release the clutch fast enough and it slipped the entire 1/8 mile run, 1st 2nd 3rd. That was the only problem I had with the clutch so far. No 7k clutch drops here, 4000 to 4500 rpm launches, not quite dumping the clutch but close. A 7k launch will make your front tires spin and bounce and kill your 60 foot times or burn the clutch if you don't let it out fast enough. If you slip you clutch good enough it will glaze the flywheel surface and that is the beginning of the end. I know it is a matter of time before mine goes, but they are not nearly as bad as a 3000GT VR4 or Stealth TT, those eat clutches for breakfast.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            where could you find a transmission upgrade?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Sri-LanKING View Post
                              where could you find a transmission upgrade?
                              PPG, OSG. Check. Vex or lightspeed I guess? It's my next required upgrade cause I'll prObably kill it this summer..
                              Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
                              Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
                              Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
                              Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
                              Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
                              White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

                              Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

                              start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
                              lol

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