gtst daytime running lights?

[gtst20]

I just brought over a gtst and to pass an out of province inspection i need to get a daytime running lights kit, figured someones had that problem and might know where i can get one. I'm in alberta if that makes a difference.

[-Jay-]

****, I'm in the same boat as you, just I don't quite have the car yet, I'll quiz my7 mechanic and get back to you.

[CanadianGTR]

WTF? I thought only cars built AFTER 1992 need DTRLs

[gtst20]

Ya i work with a mechanic and he showed me the "regulation book" or whatever its called where it says that after 1989 cars need DTRLs, in alberta. After talking to more importers i guess its just not really enforced here, i'll just try some shady mechanics

[entelijint]

wonderful module you can pick up from canadian tire or partsource. for 25$ it's a universal thing that splices into all the original wires. installs in about 20-30mins and after passing safety it can be taken out without hardly leaving a mark.

this is the package so you can spot it, grab it and get out ASAP

[genius]

oh nice thx a lot !!!!

[wakmen]

wow....I would not think this device is avilable in quebec.....I have never seen something with that much error on a package in french

[spikeone]

easy solution costs 2 wires + 1 fuse for a total of about 2$ or something lol...

might be ghetto, but at least it works and passes inspection!

[CanadianGTR]

Can't you just hook up the driving light's to an ignition source like the clock or something? So then as soon as the car turns on, the driving lights come on (instead of having them on a switch).

[Paradis]

i just got mine done in alberta, no mention of DRLs at all, my guy looked for actual safety concerns (ie. brakes, tires, mirrors) and none of that other hocus pocus

[GTSTDrifter]

i own a 1990 honda civic as my winter beater and it has something like that hooked up the car was never equiped with daytime light from the factory but when i stop the car shut it off and pull up the e-brake there off and then when i start the car and put the e-brake down the lights come on but its not the dash lights just the head and tail lights

[Jules965]

Help Wiring

Alright, my thoughts are to jumper the headlight switch. There are 3 settings, off, Running lights, and Headlights. With the key in the ignition, they do as follows:

Off - Every thing off
Middle - Taillights on, and The little bulb in N1 headlights is on
Top - Headlights and taillights are on.

My thought, is to jumper the plug that the switch plugs into so that the tail lights, and small bulb in the N1 headlights come on with acc power. Basically turning the switch into 2 positions, headlights, or daytime running lights. anyone have experience with this? what wires connect to what from the plug? and what slots should i jumper?

Even if it end up being that the lights are on even when the car is off and keys are out, then so be it. this will be a temporary solution until i can solve a neat way to do it.

[Bruizer]

I've done this on a mustang before. Nothing to it. All your doing is, instead of using the constant voltage for control (through the 3way selector) you just use the ignition for control voltage. Before doing the exchange, find out the inductance of the relays' coils to make sure your not gonna add too much current to the ignition fuse(s) and bog it down or worse. I'm not gonna say how to do it cause I don't want to get sued if someone messes it up lol Anyways there's either 3 or 5 conductors going to the 3 way selector switch (I don't remember if there's a small lamp there). It's pretty simple to find out which is the line side conductor and which is the load side. Once you know which one is which, switch out the "constant voltage" for the switched voltage (Ignition) and there you go, all you need to do is either trace the constant voltage feeder, disconnect it from it's current source and connected it to a switched source or just pull in a new conductor and tie it to your line side of the selector switch. If you can't find a good source and you have a turbo timer nearby, just tap into it there (the timer is a TOF controller, it'll be on the "set"/"reset" terminal unless auto guys call it something else lol, so I can't help you there. If you want to control BOTH relays with the 2nd selector position (not using the 3rd selection) just tie the load side conductors of position 2 and 3 together on the load side of the 2nd selector load terminal point. Really, you can do anything you want here, it's pretty simple to personalize. If you can't figure it out, get someone else to do it for you and save from little jolts, burns, fires equipment damage or wasting your time cause it doesn't work. You can get help for an ok price. You just need to tell them what you want and they'll know what to do. It's pretty straightforward if you have an understanding of it. Good luck have fun, USE A PROPER METER and you'll be fine.

[Stay_Tuned]

there is a lot more than 3 wires going to the selector switch.

Shoot me a pm if you want a hand doing the DRL. If I have time I can help you out.

[Bruizer]

I was only talking about the switch itself, no all the bottons in the same harness going to the other buttons nearby. there should be no more than 5 including the lamp. If there's more then they just did things differently. If there's only 2 positions aside from off, there's can't be that much more for conductors. I could be wrong, americans build stuff pretty simple so there could be many more wires to make things confusing in these cars, even though it's the same idea lol. Anyways you know what your doing it seems so you'll be ok.