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LS2 Ignition Coil Swap DIY pics/vid/reference

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  • #31
    A little off topic but I ended up getting a set of these since they are good enough for the power I wanted while having a dirt cheap cost. So with that being said, my okada project coils are for sale. Paid $1150, used for 1,238km. They are not cheap but they are some of if not the best (if you don't consider the cost as an important factor).

    Before I get flamed on the above statement, I did some research before buying "Cadillac"coils haha.

    The ls2 truck coils are somewhat more powerful than the audi cops, but not exactly the most powerful which one could get. The reason why I will test these is the fact that they are low cost (<200$ for a set of four) and a friend of mine had then on his shelf. If the power is not enough will go for 034motorsport coils or plasma COP's. The first costs around 80eur/pcs and the later 200eur/pcs. The black DI would be nice but the current EMS does not support it without update to its HW.

    Based on measurements the LS2 coils give out 100mj with 4ms charge (due to internal current limit charge 4.5ms max), the cops give 60mj with 3ms (cant handle much more) and 034 160mj with 6ms (can handle also 8ms) so yes there is a difference between the coils.
    the ls2 truck coils with same dewell (3.5ms) could only handle 1bar boost and lifting dewell to 4ms got us to 1.5bar and did not dare to test with higher dewell due to the "nice" internal current limit what the truck coils have. By nice I mean that the coil will shoot a spark regardless of crank angle if you cross the limit. Based on one test with 14v voltage the limit was 4.8ms charge time. I do feel that even if I optmize the dewell to be max it still wont reach high enough, so will skip these and contenue the testing with okada projects plasma COP's.
    Obviously its the internet and the guy only had a 700hp 2L car from what I recall but he ended up going okada and the benefits over the ls2 were significant.

    Again, cost wise, best bang is the LS2 coils but if you got money, dont be scared to spend if you go the cash!
    Last edited by NismoS-tune; 10-15-2012, 05:19 PM.
    Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
    Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
    Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
    Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
    Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
    White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

    Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

    start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
    lol

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    • #32
      ls2 truck coils Haltech E11V2 dwell settings???

      Hey guys i'm doing a ls2 truck coil swap on my rb26 my question is how do you change the dwell settings on a Haltech E11V2? thanks guys i hope ya'll can help.


      Nevermind guys got the settings from Scott at Haltech here are the settings.

      Please change the Ignition setup in your E11v2 to:
      Constant Charge
      Falling Spark Edge
      5ms charge time
      spark break time (p.s) 600

      When using LS coils,
      Last edited by ivansnow; 08-19-2013, 12:05 PM.

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      • #33
        Hi Nimblestix

        Thanks for the great writeup! I'm trying to follow it now, while I'm not that great at electrical things I would prefer to do it all myself so I can have a sense of accomplishment at the end

        I just have a couple of questions then for you if you don't mind on the wiring!

        1) the power and ground wires that come off the LS2 coil connectors, did you run each individual power and ground wire the entire length of the head back down to the original 3 pin connector (the one that originally had the power, ground, timing loop) and then sort of join them all together before each wire enters the 3 pin connector? I've seen some people join them all the way along at each coil connector so you really only get 1 wire for ground and power at the end.

        2) timing loop wire from 3 pin connector to coil number 1 is just removed completely as coil 1 now receives a trigger wire instead?

        3) on the ignitor there are 7 wires, one of which is a ground. what happens to that ground wire that enters the ignitor on the "firewall" side?

        4) the additional ground (that doesn't hook up to the 3 pin connector) - you wired that to the head where the old ignitor ground was - did you do the same as in 1) above i.e. just run all wires to 1 spot then I guess twist them together?

        Sorry for all the questions, but any help you could provide would be muchly appreciated!!

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        • #34
          compared to stock or splitfire.
          Originally posted by NismoS-tune View Post
          A little off topic but I ended up getting a set of these since they are good enough for the power I wanted while having a dirt cheap cost. So with that being said, my okada project coils are for sale. Paid $1150, used for 1,238km. They are not cheap but they are some of if not the best (if you don't consider the cost as an important factor).

          Before I get flamed on the above statement, I did some research before buying "Cadillac"coils haha.



          Obviously its the internet and the guy only had a 700hp 2L car from what I recall but he ended up going okada and the benefits over the ls2 were significant.

          Again, cost wise, best bang is the LS2 coils but if you got money, dont be scared to spend if you go the cash!

          Comment


          • #35
            Since this has been gravedug again, I'm working on my harness soon(just finished cleaning up my coils and getting the pigtails ready).
            What is the firing order on the 7 pin plug assuming i have the tab facing me? I don't wanna tear appart my stock harness to find out cause i wanna be able to just do a quick swap over and have everything done fast.
            Also what is the 7th pin, just a ground right?

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            • #36
              It's written on the ignitor^^

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              • #37
                And yes the last one is a ground

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by OZ32 View Post
                  Hi Nimblestix

                  Thanks for the great writeup! I'm trying to follow it now, while I'm not that great at electrical things I would prefer to do it all myself so I can have a sense of accomplishment at the end

                  I just have a couple of questions then for you if you don't mind on the wiring!

                  1) the power and ground wires that come off the LS2 coil connectors, did you run each individual power and ground wire the entire length of the head back down to the original 3 pin connector (the one that originally had the power, ground, timing loop) and then sort of join them all together before each wire enters the 3 pin connector? I've seen some people join them all the way along at each coil connector so you really only get 1 wire for ground and power at the end.

                  2) timing loop wire from 3 pin connector to coil number 1 is just removed completely as coil 1 now receives a trigger wire instead?

                  3) on the ignitor there are 7 wires, one of which is a ground. what happens to that ground wire that enters the ignitor on the "firewall" side?

                  4) the additional ground (that doesn't hook up to the 3 pin connector) - you wired that to the head where the old ignitor ground was - did you do the same as in 1) above i.e. just run all wires to 1 spot then I guess twist them together?

                  Sorry for all the questions, but any help you could provide would be muchly appreciated!!
                  Grateful for any help...

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                  • #39
                    Sorry I'll get back to you tonight from my PC.

                    sent from a galaxy far, far away

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                    • #40
                      Hook up a relay to the LS2 coils like Jon said. That will increase the power to the coil at a lower dwell time.
                      BNR32 Owner
                      Okinawa, Japan

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