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  • Interesting ATTESA info

    Interesting... Now we know why R32's slide so much compared to 33 34 and 35. There brains are much smaller and slower LOL.

    Copy and paste from another Nissan site:

    What is ATTESA/ATTESA-ETS/ATTESA-ETS Pro and differences between v-spec & non-vspec ?

    Short Answer:
    ATESSA E-TS PRO is Nissans 4WD system which transfers power and braking force where it is needed for best performance. Torque is split between front and rear wheels while braking force is split independently to all four wheels utilising ABS. In ordinary driving conditions torque is delivered purely to the rear wheels, however when the car is pushed the computer engages the front wheels and calculates the amount of power split between front and rear.

    Long Answer:
    The Nissan Skyline GT-R is predominately a rear wheel drive (RWD) car. All power, be it a V-Spec model or not, is transferred to the rear wheels. The 4WD control system is called ATTESA. In true Japanese style, this acronym stands for "Advanced Total Traction Engineering System for All wheel drive". This system is used by Nissan on a majority of their 4WD cars and off roaders (Shogun, Pajero, etc.). There is a further refined variation of this system, known as ATTESA-ETS. Where ETS stands for "Electronic Torque Split". This is used in the GTR. Then, there is an updated version again, known as the ATTESA-ETS Pro. The Pro spec version is used on the V-Spec varient (it stands for Victory specification, in honour of the many Nissan motorsport victories, BTW). There are other versions (ATTESA-ETS Pro ELITE, used in motorsport and not commercially available, as there are undoubtably others).

    The difference between the two GTR versions is that the Pro version has control over the torque split between the left/right rear wheels (via the A-LSD rear diff) - in addition to the standard versions front/rear lockup (which is performed via an electically pumped, fluid filled, transfer case arrangement). There are also other differences in how the torque transfer is performed front/rear. Namely to do with the ramp speed of the pump (which affects the progression of the lock up) as well the monitoring of various extra sensors.

    The sensors used by ATTESA-ETS are a three dimensional G-sensor and the ABS wheel speed sensors. The V-Spec variant will take into account deceleration and vertical G's in it's torque split bias, whereas the standard non-vspec GTR will not. Both versions will take note of road speed differences (via the ABS sensors) and cross reference them with the G-sensor input. If ATTESA detects a loss of traction at the rear, it will proceed to gradually lock up the transfer case (by increasing the pressure of the fluid with the electric pump) until it achieves a full 50/50 lock. Depending upon the quality of the fluid, the state of the pump, the state of the clutch pack arrangements in the transfer case, you might not get a 100% lock (ergo a 50/50 split) and this is usually the case on older cars that have been thrashed. Basically, put the car onto some wet grass/dirt, Vspec or not, and dump the clutch at 8000 RPM in 1st gear. If you don't get 100% lockup within a second (a full 50/50 split) your ATTESA system might need some attention. As Vspec or not, your transfer case should be locked. More on the differences between Vspec and non-Vspec. The Vspec cars will take into account the vertical G's, so if the front of the car is dipping (due to a decline in the road) or under heavy braking, 10% is immediately transfered to the fronts (your torque transfer gauge should show this). Also on the Vspec, if you are in a hard turn, with the rears braking traction (drift) ATTESA should detect that you are in a moderate to high G sustained corner and not take action (the normal ATTESA-ETS will in this case). The Pro version will limit torque split to the fronts until such a time as your input from the steering wheel indicates that you wish to terminate the slide (by counter steering) at which point it will immediately transfer gradual lock (in correlation to the speed of your steering input, via the HICAS computer). The system is very complex, but there is more to it than the usual dealer story that 'there isn't much difference'. The truth of the matter is that most people will never push the car hard enough to find the differences, in conjunction with the fact that a lot of second hand GTR's have 'loose' transfer cases and the 4WD system has suffered. ATTESA requires that all the wheels and tyres are identical. The same grip level and rolling diameter. One of the common mistakes that people make is using different tyres (grip levels) and different sizes (your fronts and rears should be the same size, width and height) as any small changes will drastically affect how ATTESA interprets its input. Tyre choice is also crucially important. If you use crap tyres, don't be surprised to see the 4WD system doing strange things and the handling suffering as a consequence.

    also to add The older ATTESA system on the R32 GTR updated 4 times per second, the R33 GTR updates at 20 times per second. For the VSPEC ATTESA ETS Pro, the frequency is closer to 1000 times per second
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  • #2
    wow, that is actually some VERY interesting information man,

    i just got my second GTR32, and this one has 2 diff sets of wheels front and back, and when ever i go above 80 km/h the torque splitter sits up around 5%... when i push the pedal to floor it goes to 10%... i cant remember if ive ever seen it go all the way to 50% but i should definitley try that wet grass deal. id like to know if my transfer case needs attention... although i plan to change every fluid in the car next spring.

    cool stuff
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    • #3
      I think the solution is to fit a Group A / N1 Attessa ECU or buy a torque split controller which allows you to adjust the bias. Some make their own torque split controller, like on the Gibson Group-A R32GTR.

      Here's an article about making your own torque split controller, similar to the Gibson Group-A R32GTR -



      Veilside made a E-brake looking manual hydraulic torque split controller.

      On the N1 R34 GTR at Nurburgring they had buttons that which when pressed, reset ABS, torque spilt for wet conditions.

      Here's a thread on torque split controllers -

      Hi all, We've got an R33 here at work that we want to setup a torque split controller on so that we can test the car with 50/50 or 100/0 or anything in between. Couple of issues. 1. Is it true that the R33 can't really handle 50/50 split for any serious time or load and it's more like 70/30...
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      • #4
        Calling the BNR32's atessa slow is not correct at all though. original atessa was 16 bit, new atessa was 32 bit. Speed wise they are both more then sufficient at corrections 10's of times per second.

        Originally posted by archaeic_bloke View Post
        wow, that is actually some VERY interesting information man,

        i just got my second GTR32, and this one has 2 diff sets of wheels front and back, and when ever i go above 80 km/h the torque splitter sits up around 5%... when i push the pedal to floor it goes to 10%... i cant remember if ive ever seen it go all the way to 50% but i should definitley try that wet grass deal. id like to know if my transfer case needs attention... although i plan to change every fluid in the car next spring.

        cool stuff
        thats not 5%, of your power, and the front will never see a full 50/50 split even if you maxed the pump out.


        Now a days you have two choices of splitters. Ones that increase the activity and sensitivity of the system, and the few rare others that create an actual desired split constantly.

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        • #5
          I thought that I heard somewhere that torque split controllers were bad for the whole system, can't remember exactly what they fry.

          If one wanted to upgrade an R32 to R34 ATTESA all you would need to replace is the computer correct? Or would some hardware upgrades be nessary?
          sigpic

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          • #6
            The clutch pack in the transfer case wears out faster.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by SxyBeast View Post
              Basically, put the car onto some wet grass/dirt, Vspec or not, and dump the clutch at 8000 RPM in 1st gear.
              R32 GTR FULL SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOAD:
              http://forums.gtrcanada.com/faq/36-holy-bible-6.html#post467565

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              • #8
                Originally posted by SxyBeast View Post
                If one wanted to upgrade an R32 to R34 ATTESA all you would need to replace is the computer correct? Or would some hardware upgrades be nessary?
                Sorry to bump an old thread, but I find this fascinating. I too would like to know the answer to that question. You would actually need the active differential hardware from the "pro" system I believe as far as hardware is concerned. Looks like RBmotoring has done it:

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                • #9
                  Mines did something similar with their R32GTR demo car (R33 GTR active diffhead) -



                  You can fit R34GTR gearbox into R32GTR. The R32GTR or R33GTR 4.11:1 diffhead's, mixed with R34 gearbox gives it the perfect short gear ratio's to work with HKS 25/30 turbo's or similar. Stock R34GTR diffhead's are taller, so for more topspeed when mixed with R34 gearbox.

                  This is how the R32GTR 4wd system works and how the Gibson team setup 4wd ECU on a Group-A R32GTR racecar -

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                  • #10
                    R34 box with 4.111's is a blast to drive.
                    We have a member on the board with it done.

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                    • #11
                      Any type of upgraded clutch packs or other transfercase internals you can buy for the BNR32?

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                      • #12
                        As far as I know Kakimoto or JUN sell transfer case internals.
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                        • #13
                          I'm assuming the stock transfercase is good for like 800whp?
                          What's it cost in parts for a rebuild? (OEM or aftermarket)

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