rb30's.... yes another thread

[4jo3]

well after a long winter project and a ton of bolts-ons ... my rb26 ran for a few days and well not good ... so i have came to the conclusion im getting an rb30. it just makes sense for the amount of power i want.

im not sure sure if i wanna tackle this idea yet but i have been talking to a few companies that will ship me rb30s that are suitable for rebuild. as it looks right now, i am interested in a couple short blocks for myself.

i am just wondering if anybody else would be interested. maybe we could cut down on some shipping. and i usually visit toronto once a week and ottawa once every two weeks.

as of now im just getting a bunch of pricing. but i will be buying an rb30 for myself. right now i dont have a deadline for when im gonna order my blocks. things are just way to busy for me right now... so i am going to say by the end of the year. depends on work (its crazy right now) realistically it will be in a month when im gonna order them.

so if anyone is interest in the rb30s let me know and maybe we can work something out ... all im trying to do is get the shipping cost down because a lot of the cost is shipping.

more information will be supplied... like i said this is just a testing waters thing so i really dont know wat section this shud be in sorry if its in the wrong one.

thanks,
justin

p.s. it should be understood that these engines are to suit rebuilds. so leakdown and compression tests will not be carried out. the blocks will be a series 2 block that has the turbo oil and water supplies, sump and rotating assembly (crank, connecting rods and pistons)

[spank110]

I'm in if the price is right.

[superdaveosbourne]

Justin, sell me your turbos

[Brendan]

Post up when you get more info. I may be in depending on when it happens and the price.

[raijin-xiii]

Post up when you get more info. I may be in depending on when it happens and the price.

for your GTR or your 240 lol

[Brendan]

for your GTR or your 240 lol

Some other 240, definitely not the DD 240... it isn't the greatest chassis.

[NismoS-tune]

As long as you know RB30s require some modifying to install correctly. If you buy a "ready to install one" it'll cost you around $6000 cad + shipping but you'd still have to modify your hood, engine mounts or get a custom hood cause the engine sits 38mm higher than the rb26. Also, at $6000, the engine is STOCK. If you want to get a built RB30, it'll with probably cost more than a built RB26 since it doesn't have certain bits (like the oil squirters). You'd have to get a modified oil pan, drill and retap the head bolt holes to fit bigger studs, get a block that has turbo oil and cooling provisions and the list goes on. RB30s supposedly can't rev as well as an RB26 but that's as proven as much as "crappy splitfires or shitty genuine N1 oil pumps" so don't that that as truth. In the end, the torque you'll gain won't be too much but atleast you'd have a good time modifying so much to make it fit. Have fun. I also missed some things that would need to be modified like the 4 lower transmission bolts that don't line up, if you want to use an oil pump without it being totally modified, you'd have to machine the crank (balance issues) and add and a sleeve for the really short oil pump drive which all RB30s suffered like the older GTRs.

If you want advice, spend that money building an RB26 which will beat an RB30 if done correctly.

[4jo3]

Dave, my turbos will most likely be for sale. with the separated dump pipes and maybe the manifolds too

I have looked into all this stuff... 6k for a stock motor is steep... when doing the exact same SHORT block rebuild doesnt cost that much more. (rb26 vs rb30) I have an early rb26 and the crank will need work also and the stock oil pump is going in the metal bin. I will be going with a tomei or jun. Ya it will be a headache the only BIG extra cost i can see right now would be the sump (we are talking short block rebuild). and the actual cost of the short block. And for head bolts i will be going aftermarket ... probably L19s maybe not thou they are alot of money. Oil and Coolant lines will not be a problem... my setup now has all stainless lines (there are no banjo bolts on my turbos... i just hate them... haha). But ya i have looked into ... i know its not an easy feat but rb30s can rev past 7500, now your getting into knife edging the crank and nitrating it and of course balancing. RIPS have proven this many times. Modding the hood shouldnt be a problem, you just have to cut the skeleton out. Also relocating the tensioner is not a big deal and all you have to do is run a 152 tooth gates timing belt. Thanks for letting me know, much appreciated. Its just hard because there is not information readily available so any input is gold.

As for the details on the motors. Right Now I have only got a rough quote of 1 motor shipped. Shipping is by ocean so it will take a while but I am looking at roughly 35 +/- 5 days. I have no idea what customs would be probably not that bad. But I was quoted approx 933CAD for one motor + 467CAD shipping. Shipping would be on one pallet and I was told you can fit 4 maybe 8 motors per pallet. Note this price was for one motor and one motor only. This is my cost. I am doing this to get a getter rate on shipping and save some money. So I would like to deal with people around TO and ottawa. Unless there is a group of people elsewhere.

Well I have to get up early tomorrow and get to work. So Im out. Cheers

Justin

[DJ]

As long as you know RB30s require some modifying to install correctly. If you buy a "ready to install one" it'll cost you around $6000 cad + shipping but you'd still have to modify your hood, engine mounts or get a custom hood cause the engine sits 38mm higher than the rb26. Also, at $6000, the engine is STOCK. If you want to get a built RB30, it'll with probably cost more than a built RB26 since it doesn't have certain bits (like the oil squirters). You'd have to get a modified oil pan, drill and retap the head bolt holes to fit bigger studs, get a block that has turbo oil and cooling provisions and the list goes on. RB30s supposedly can't rev as well as an RB26 but that's as proven as much as "crappy splitfires or shitty genuine N1 oil pumps" so don't that that as truth. In the end, the torque you'll gain won't be too much but atleast you'd have a good time modifying so much to make it fit. Have fun. I also missed some things that would need to be modified like the 4 lower transmission bolts that don't line up, if you want to use an oil pump without it being totally modified, you'd have to machine the crank (balance issues) and add and a sleeve for the really short oil pump drive which all RB30s suffered like the older GTRs.

If you want advice, spend that money building an RB26 which will beat an RB30 if done correctly.

I was thinking about it,to do the conversion this winter but it seems to be to much of a headache for what your getting.I'm going the rb26 route.

[NismoS-tune]

Just to confirm, that 6k was including adapters to convert your tranny to fit (maybe the oilpan too?) and no head or oil pan.

at $1000 cad, that's a good deal. Let us know how your homemade RB30 conversion goes. I'd be curious to know how much work it'll be and cost. Do build a thread for your project.

[Browny_R31]

the rb30 really isnt a hard engine to work with. I guess its more the fact they arnt so common in north america so people just dont know how to work them. Stock bottom end is pretty much bullet proof (can handle over 550 rear wheel horsepower with mods to the bottom end).

At these prices..... i'd seriously look into Australia and getting one shipped over. A N/a sells for around $500 ($420 CAD) for everything. I sold my old one out of a running car for AUS $600 with rb30 gearbox (exactly the same as the rb20det boxs but without the double syncros). It may cost you about $1500 to get it shipped here but ud still have a full working rb30 (NA.... nissan never made a turbo rb30 from factory) to your door for about 2k. Ifyou get the person to throw in the rb30e engine mounts, that would also help very much as you need them.

rb30s do not rev... they also have a shocking rev limiter... totally kills power when u hit it. dont expect any power over 6k. my old one used to make peak power at 5200 rpm. But plenty or torque..... lots!

[NismoS-tune]

the rb30 really isnt a hard engine to work with. I guess its more the fact they arnt so common in north america so people just dont know how to work them. Stock bottom end is pretty much bullet proof (can handle over 550 rear wheel horsepower with mods to the bottom end).

At these prices..... i'd seriously look into Australia and getting one shipped over. A N/a sells for around $500 ($420 CAD) for everything. I sold my old one out of a running car for AUS $600 with rb30 gearbox (exactly the same as the rb20det boxs but without the double syncros). It may cost you about $1500 to get it shipped here but ud still have a full working rb30 (NA.... nissan never made a turbo rb30 from factory) to your door for about 2k. Ifyou get the person to throw in the rb30e engine mounts, that would also help very much as you need them.

rb30s do not rev... they also have a shocking rev limiter... totally kills power when u hit it. dont expect any power over 6k. my old one used to make peak power at 5200 rpm. But plenty or torque..... lots!

The engine doesn't make the rev limiter "shocking"... the ECU does. RIPS built many RB30 (s2) and rev them higher than 8k. A stock bottom end may be bullet proof if you tune it right but you wouldn't see 550whp unless you modded the bottom end with "forgies". The oil pump drive is also an issue on all RB30.

[tokes]

Making peak power at 5200 and redlining at 5200 has everything to do with your head/cams/turbo(s), and very little to do with your bottom end. Your setup that maxed out at 5200 on an RB30 would probably max out at 5600 on an RB26.

[Browny_R31]

The engine doesn't make the rev limiter "shocking"... the ECU does. RIPS built many RB30 (s2) and rev them higher than 8k. A stock bottom end may be bullet proof if you tune it right but you wouldn't see 550whp unless you modded the bottom end with "forgies". The oil pump drive is also an issue on all RB30.

well yes true i was meaning stock rb30e (ecu as well). and yes u can see rb30e stock bottom ends with 550 rw horse power. Seen it, know them, driven them. Not that uncommon really. There is one in Adelaide (where im from) with 427rwkws with a stock bottom end. He dragged it for ages and drove it alot and it never faulted. Many rb30ETs still use the stock bottom end with large power figures. Oil pump is pretty much the first thing u change when modifying a rb30.... they crap out even on the NA versions. Also watch out when buying a GM version of the rb30 (used) cause in the Holdens they were known to blow the heads alot.

[Skym]

I gather what Browny means is the time it takes engine to reach the peak power revs. A N/A RB30 I've experienced in a VL Commodore didn't rev well (single cam head) but felt like alot of torque down low. R.I.P.S fit's a twin cam RB26 head (sometimes with cams), so engine would breathe better at higher rpm's and throughout powerband. Head makes a big difference to bump in hp, sometimes up to 100hp gain on a 4cyl engine, depending on how far the head was ported, etc.

On early RB20 engine, there was roughly a 18.8hp gain (peak power) from switching to twin cam RB20 head.