what to do about these parts?

[archaeic_bloke]

hey,

considering removing and relocating a few things in the engine bay.. wondering what you guys reccomend for each of the following:


1) PCM valve... is it needed? what does it do!? can it simply be unplugged, block off the 2 vacuum lines coming and going for it and toss it out?

2) resistor pack: obviously necessary, but is there a good place to tuck it away?

3) radiator fluid reservoir: is it really necessary to keep this? i mean.. if fluid comes out its just "supposed" to go into the bottle.. but if it doesnt i don't realy care.. i mean that bottle doesnt GIVE" fluid to the rad if its low on coolant does it? i don't see any lines going to it....

4) charcoal canistor: ... toss it out. and block off the vacuum lines? what about the lines from the gas tank?

5) heat shields above where cat used to be and throuhg out exhaust: are these worth keeping around?


and finally, is it worth re-wrapping the electrical wires in new plastic tube and black vinyl tape?.. i was planning on checking the electrical resistance of all the wires in the ecu and ign harness to see if any are worth replacing (in case of interior line corrosion)

thanks guys,

[Skym]

1.) Do you mean the PCV valve???

2.) Could use black paint to make it not stick out (if engine bay is black).

3.) Coolant expands when it's hot and goes into overflow bottle. Then coolant goes back into radiator when coolant cools (you need it). On classic cars they left a little bit of room in top of radiator for overflow. You can make a custom overflow bottle out of aluminium, if for showcar or racecar.

4.) Vent gas tank with filter.

5.) As far as I know, under body seal is made up of resin, rubber, so yes worth it to protect underbody and not get a rubber smell.

All looms in engine bay are changed with new items on older cars when they are restored. Or some rewire the old looms. Injector, coilpack looms are the looms that can cause problems.

[archaeic_bloke]

the thing i highlighted in the obnoxious colors is what im calling the PCM valve

if i remove it and plug both lines.. then won't my turbos over boost?

but should be fine once i install an aftermarket boost controller right?

[NismoS-tune]

I killed that thing when I got an after market boost controller. Being the stock boost controller, the lines that feeds it, feed your new boost controller if I recall, I was drunk though sorry.

[Skym]

With overflow bottle, mark level on side of overflow bottle when engine / coolant is cold and see if the coolant level in overflow bottle rises when engine is warm.

This link explains how coolant gets into overflow bottle -

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm

I think that's the stock boost control solenoid. Some stock ECU's control boost level (plug on side of boost control solenoid suggests ECU adjust's boost level). Can adjust boost duty cycle at ECU via main, knock boost duty maps. At least the R32GTR maps I have access to show this can be done.

Removing stock boost control solenoid means ECU has no control over boost level. Normally you remove the boost restrictor inside the vacuum hose to get up to 0.9-1 bar. From memory it's marked by yellow paint looking strip around vacuum hose. But if adjusting boost level via ECU, leave stock boost restrictor in place, as it helps stock boost control solenoid with building boost earlier, etc.

I noticed one person on SAU had slow boost build problems with R33 RB25DET (stock ECU controls boost level on R33 RB25DET) when fitting aftermarket boost controller, removing stock hoses, fitting new vacuum hoses to aftermarket boost control solenoid, internal wastegate actuator, etc. He put a bleed valve (acts like a boost restrictor), then adjusted to suit and problem solved.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Resistor pack can be extended to the firewall. I'll dig a picture up for you.

charcoal canister can be tossed. Theres a large inlet from the tank, that, i fed into the tube from the bottom of the canister (to atmopshere) where it sits in the frame rail. The top 2 vac sources i pulled as well.. On my rb20, there were 2 metal pipes that ran along the jpipe to the intake plenum for vac source.. All that came off, and the intake plenum was blocked off at those 2 respective points.