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  • #16
    Take it easy at first. Change oil often. Wait a while before you switch to full syn. Once you put syn. oil there is no more "ring seating". Like you said, use a combination of what all the GTRC members said.
    03 lancer dead
    68 gmc w/355 cid rice killer
    05 chevy silverado L33
    2010 crv Wife's ride
    1987 Harley Softail custom

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    • #17
      IMO this is the only way to break in a motor, definatly the procedure I'll be doing when I build my motor.

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      • #18
        I will be breaking in my new motor soon. So taking some of each of what everyone has said. Ideally a good option is to vary rpms and keep it to around 4k in 1st-3rd gear. Drive for about 30 mins then do a oil change. Do this about 3 times with conventional oil then switch to synthetic.
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        • #19
          I read those secret break in methods when i broke my engine in back in 2009... but from all my information gathering one thing that hasnt been mentioned is heat cycling... when you end up driving around and varying your rpm range and doing 5k rpm pulls and letting the engine slow itself back down its good to stop after 10 - 20 minutes to let everything cool down, i even changed the oil, then do it again...

          i drove it after it warmed up right outta the shop doing pulls and slowing till i got home approx 30 - 40 minutes worth, then oil change and when it was cool to the touch get back out and did a buncha 20 minute heat cycles, waste gates wired open 5.5k rpm rev limiter and i did 1500kms in a weekend doing this method. I slowly extended the heat cycle period as the km's went on and i ended up doing 3 oil changes in those 1500km's. Since then been running strong, I'll be doing a compression test this week and I'll post results... I've driven it pretty hard when i take it out since rebuild so we'll see how she has held up over the years.

          Edit:

          hahaha after reading the bottom on the secrets page... which wasnt there in 2009... i guess the heat cycling research i had read and done on my car is a buncha crap... oh well disregard heat cycling post

          "face palm"
          Last edited by curtisgoodman; 04-14-2015, 10:51 AM.

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          • #20
            I was told by my tuner to remove the springs from my wastegates to break in so there is no boost pressure. I'm reading conflicting ideas, thoughts?
            “Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"

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            • #21
              the first time my waste gates were wide open and i still made 5-8 psi of boost at 5500rpm rev limit

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