alright guys so i have finally decided to start building my spair rb20 and have started the tear down now what i am looking for is alittle help from you guys on where to go with it, like as far as keeping the rb20 crank or using something different, what to do about pistons and rods, i am looking to go all forged. i will also be bulding my head and putting in bigger cams. for my block i want to go all forged. hoping for round 350-400hp but yet still somewhat reliable..i know i know according to some people power isnt reliable but i just dont want to build it and then have issues couple 100 kilometers later as the car is going to be somewhat daily driven
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rb20 build opinions
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From what I have heard and researched, as long as you aren't boosting over 14-15 psi and not revving high 7-8+
and always let your motor warm up so the pistons can expand, the motor should last with regular maintenance,
Now I am no expert, but have been so stressed about my motor blowing a few hundred km later, that Ive spent literally hours on the phone with various shops.
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If its doing to be a daily driver, a forged bottom end might be overkill
I've pushed 20psi thru my stock motor for 2.5 years now and a recent compression test showed my motor is very very healthy. (165-170psi across 6 cylinders). A lot of people will overkill their set up which isn't a bad idea but sometimes unnecessary. A forged or built motor is necessary if your abusing the car for a period of time (continually full throttle to redline thru the gears like track drivin)
If its a daily driver, I'd build it smarter, not harder. But then again I don't have a lot of experience with rb20's. I just know guys who DD their forged motors and they slap around and are kinda temperamental. Your power goals are realistic without going mentalR33 GTST RB25DET series 1
Stock motor, holset HX40, power fc d-jetro, bolt ons, 20psi = 492rwhp 364 lbft
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Stock RB20DET engine can take a thrashing on racetrack with 350hp -
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This car had a boosted up stock RB20DET engine (including stock turbo), 330hp at 1bar and was able to catch up to and pass a boosted up R32GTR in Targa -
R32 GTS-t chases down "The Elephant Man", Mr Steve Thatcher, and his lovely Navvie Kel in their R32 GTR. haha, good times :)
On racetrack -
It eventually failed due to high oiltemps (no engine oilcooler, bearing failure) on racetrack, but took heaps of laps before it failed (I think was using 10w60 oil, hence why it lasted so long).
This stock RB20DET + Greedy TD06 20G turbo kit has close to 400hp at engine and is road / track driven -
First time back to PI in a long time. Finally able to prove that my last PB was well off the ability of the car. No noise limit meant no concerns over black ...
As long as you keep oiltemps, coolant temps under control and has a good tune (doesn't run lean), stock engine should last.RESPONSE MONSTER
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thanks for the info skym and budget im not really sure cause its a slow build mostly just collecting over time...r33_gtst as for the forged bottom, the car does see a fair amount of drag strip and a few burnout contests at out track and as of now i am workin on trying to get some small gymkhana events set up in new brunswick and i am trying to get into drifting so my car does get a fair amount of abuse, and another reason for the forged is my motor is pretty tired out, it came from a car that was once a track car in japan so i figured if i am gonna go as far as building it i might as well go forged but i could be wrong1991 skyline GTS-T - first import/winter project
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Buy a rb 25 and build it.. building a rb 20 only leads to a head hung in shame everytime you open your hood, or try to race somebody.... if your afraid of wiring it's actually easier to wire a 25 into a 20 bay then it is for the most common swap ever.... which is a sr into a 240I love Skylines! My jackstands never get stolen...
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RB25DET is good if want easy 400hp+, more torque down low (VVT helps), spool bigger turbo's. But if going that route, might as well buy a RB26, as a RB25DET once modified is like a RB26 with front facing plenum, RB26 bottomend (crank, conrods, forged pistons).
But a boosted up RB20DET in R32 GTS-T chassis (lightened like a drift car) can run a 1:01 around Tsukuba with traffic on racetrack (if EVO didn't hold him up, could have been quicker) -
It's just as quick as a stock R35GTR, 600hp R33GTR, 600hp R34GTR that run 1:02 in race and 1:01 on clear racetrack -
R32, R33, R34, and R35 battle it out at Tsukuba. Most of them are tuned. Video courtesy of Racingflix.com
Forged RB20DET can take up to 500hp in Group-A. But they are rebuilt every 3000-3500km (routine rebuild) due to being thrashed lap after lap. Same rebuild km for RB25, RB26, V8, etc when thrashed lap after lap.
Spool sell a forged RB20DET kit (pistons, H beam conrods, bearings, etc) -
I think most use CP pistons. Also I think ACL sell forged pistons, 1.3mm metal headgasket. I would use Tomei or ACL metal headgasket than metal headgasket in above kit.
Also you'll need a oilpump drive collar (short stock oilpump drive needs to be machined off and collar, etc fitted) -
They also sell upgraded N1 oilpump (gears are stronger) -
ARP head, main studs -
Also you'll need a Nisaan repair gasket kit (used when rebuilding engine) and custom copper or similar intake gaskets.
N1 waterpump if used on racetrack or stock waterpump for street use. Same with stock thermostat (street), Nismo (racetrack) thermostat, unless engine needs low temp thermostat on road (motorway trips with higher boost levels).
Nistune ECU, Deatschwerks injectors, Deatschwerks fuelpump, fuelpump hard wire kit, Z32 AFM + Z32 AFM plug, upgraded clutch, electronic boost controller, 3" exhaust, etc.Last edited by Skym; 08-03-2012, 07:38 AM.RESPONSE MONSTER
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thanks for the info skym you gave me something more to think about now for my build , and knate as good as the rb25 sounds the amount of skylines i know in new brunswick they all want the rb25 or already have it and i like to be different and i want to prove to them the rb20 can stay with the rb25 if not do better and from what skym just showed about it i am even more into building an rb201991 skyline GTS-T - first import/winter project
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