Blue Smoke Come From Exhaust When Switching Gears

[DeutschePro]

I have an R32 GTS-T and this problem just occurred.

Now when I drive the vehicle, it doesn't accelerate as quickly.
When I hit a higher RPM (4500 and up) and switch gears, blue smoke comes out of the exhaust.

Anyone know what the problem could be?


I just got it back from the shop a couple days ago and it was not like this before I sent it in.
Reason why it was in the shop was for a new water pump.
I also got an oil change today and the problem is still there.

This is really frustrating. So if anyone knows what the problem could be, please respond!

Could it possibly be the turbo?

[bobbo]

Could be valves seals going. See if there's smoke under deceleration while still in gear and when you first start the car. If so its seals valve seals.

[DeutschePro]

None of the blue smoke comes out when I start it or decelerate. The only time the blue smoke comes out is when I switch to a higher gear from a higher RPM.
If I switch it to neutral, the smoke does not come out until I put it into a gear.

Could it be I'm running rich and need to check the spark plugs?

[Blackcossie]

I would start with a compression test.

[leeaspin]

probly a bad ring. same thing happened to my car.

[NismoS-tune]

These cars are know to eat piston rings and bearings... Comp test time.

[RixR32]

Could be turbo seals as well. Especially possible seeing as its at higher rpm & under boost.....
Blue smoke is oil burning.

Like others said...start with compression test to rule out (or in,,) rings or valve seals.
If a cyl is low, add a capful of oil to the cyl and re-do the test. If compression rises, it indicates the rings are bad in that cyl.
Hopefully it's just a turbo man!
Did the shop happen to joyride in your car and beat the piss out of it?? 'Cause other then that possibility, it shouldn't have anything to do with a water-pump job.

Rick

[blink]

The shop probably went for a hard "test ride"

[NismoS-tune]

I remember my old stock turbos had bad seals and only leaked oil into the exhaust when not under load or idle. Also, if you have after market BB turbos and no oil feed restrictor, thats the fastest way to turbo oil seal failure.

[coston]

I remember my old stock turbos had bad seals and only leaked oil into the exhaust when not under load or idle. Also, if you have after market BB turbos and no oil feed restrictor, thats the fastest way to turbo oil seal failure.

Would that mean new turbos or could you just rebuild them using new seals?

[NismoS-tune]

Before worrying about cost and what's needed, figure out the problem first. By your post I'm guessing you have no restrictor and new Turbos lol.

Start with easy stuff like comp test

[steveo1502]

Not really sure if this has anything to do with it but a while ago I replaced my turbos with a set of rebuilt with Steel wheels. when installing them I kinda folded over one of the gaskets for the oil return line off the back turbo, it's right above the down pipe,at full boost oil would spray over the exhaust, and blue smoke, took me a bit to figure it out, thought it was the rear main seal, do you have new turbo? And sure the smoke is blue? Running rich would be black , sounds like bad rings

[DeutschePro]

The turbo is not stock. It has about 30 000km on it.

Now the smoke is mainly white. The blueish tinge went away.

What should my numbers be for an R32 GTS-T if I were to do a compression test? I have the kit, I just don't know what the numbers should be and I can't seem to find anything online.

Also, the shop I brought it to specializes in JDM vehicles so maybe they wanted to compare it to the rest. Either way, I want to get this fixed.

It just makes no sense because it will accelerate with no problems for about the first 5-10 minutes of it running. But as soon as the engine warms up, thats when the problem starts. When the engine warms up, my car just won't accelerate and then it blows out WHITE SMOKE NOW.

[steveo1502]

Sound like head gasket, how does the antifreeze look? Should be able to smell the antifreeze burning if it was, always reminds me of pancake syrup, compression test will be your answer, believe they should be around 170 psi, I checked mine a while ago, came up 140 across the board, after I did it I heard u should take out all the plugs , not just one at a time, that's what I did, maybe why the low numbers, and engine should be warmed up to operating temp

[steveo1502]

Also found this online

according to the R32 manual, the RB20DET's factory value is 170psi and actual limit value is 128psi. The allowed variance between cylinders is 14.2psi