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AMS or Drifworks Hicas Delete kit?

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  • AMS or Drifworks Hicas Delete kit?

    As far as I know those are the only two kits out there that actually deletes the Hicas system rather than locking it up

    So does it matter which kit I get?

  • #2
    Dunno about the AMS kit, I have the DW kit and it works well and fairly straightforward to install.

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    • #3
      I hear the old bushing are a pain to get out, and I've heard people use C-clamps to push em out shouldn't be too tough right?

      Also, would you need an alignment after install?

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      • #4
        yes alignment would be strongly recommended. i mean you could so only rear. but that adjust your toe, and probly the most significant alignment part that can wear out your tires quickest if not adjusted properly!!!!
        89 r32 sedan

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        • #5
          i was going to get the kit also, the DW, but its so damn expensive i just got a s13 non-hicas rear subframe and swaped all my parts into it and just got some s13 rear toe arms from Megan, which are like 120$ and everything is pimp... and the subframe cost me 64$. just more work to drop subframe and stuff but its not that bad to be honest. could be all done in 1 evening.
          89 r32 sedan

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          • #6
            where did you get the s13 rear subframe for $64?? I should really look into that

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            • #7
              Buy the driftworks kit and support product innovation. I personally have the driftworks kit and with a few minor adjustments it goes together just fine. the old bushings are a pain but not impossible. Driftworks created the product so pay the few extra $ and support them vs the knock off ams kit where quality is questionable (cough brake pads that everyone loves so much). you will need an alignment to be proper
              1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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              • #8
                just the local pick and pull. i know some pay 80, 120, ive heard some pay 200..... but it was 64$ with tax lol. pretty sick. i just removed all the arms that were left on it, the stock arms that i dont need and make it cheaper since i dont need them. but yeah if you just want a adjustable rear end.... why not. save yourself some money thats for sure. and if you do get a new subframe you can change the bushings before you put it in... like since its out you can work on it before you swap it up. thats what i am doing with mine. i got new subframe, toe, camber, traction, diff, bushings. so when i put it in, it will all be new. something to think about.
                89 r32 sedan

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by gezed View Post
                  I hear the old bushing are a pain to get out, and I've heard people use C-clamps to push em out shouldn't be too tough right?

                  Also, would you need an alignment after install?
                  use heat and a slide hammer they pop right out (drift works i have it its dope)
                  Ryan
                  90 ca powered sil80 (sold )
                  90 r32 gtr (toy)

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                  • #10
                    surprisingly AMS actually cost just a bit more lol

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by fwd suck View Post
                      use heat and a slide hammer they pop right out (drift works i have it its dope)
                      heat+aluminum=win
                      1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by fwd suck View Post
                        use heat and a slide hammer they pop right out (drift works i have it its dope)
                        X2
                        Have DW too: good stuff
                        My sky got 99 problems but to find bitches ain't one

                        Once you go sky; Parts you're going to buy...

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                        • #13
                          Cusco also makes a fender eliminator kit
                          I personally have the driftworks brackets and battle version components.
                          Go cusco or driftworks
                          R33 GTST RB25DET series 1
                          Stock motor, holset HX40, power fc d-jetro, bolt ons, 20psi = 492rwhp 364 lbft

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by gezed View Post
                            I hear the old bushing are a pain to get out, and I've heard people use C-clamps to push em out shouldn't be too tough right?

                            Also, would you need an alignment after install?
                            Yes and yes. You can check out my build thread and see how I did it.

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                            • #15
                              Ball joint puller. Its a giant c-clamp with all the attachments to get different size ball joints out.
                              Dang! You got shocks, pegs... Lucky! You ever take it off any sweet jumps?

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