oil priming the car before every cold start?? silly idea?

[jimBNR32]

doing a bit of reading and came across some info on the net regarding small about of damage caused whenever you start the car from cold. bearings lack of oil etc for that split second.
has anyone thought about running a switch to the cas or ignitor so you can turn the engine over a few times (without starting), and hence build a bit of oil pressure before starting the car?

doesnt seem like a crazy idea as alot of folks disable these when doing oil changes to help prime the motor, so maybe not a crazy idea, but silly/pointless idea?

[speedfreak]

Could be a good idea for anti theft too

[NismoS-tune]

Ferrari, Porsche, Lamborghini, none of them have this so why would it be a big deal on a 20 year old $10k car?

But if you had to, get a moroso oil accumulator. Runs around $600 + labour and will prelube your engine without anything moving unlike a disabled cas.

[DRIVER_R32]

preventative maintenance!
high quality oils and fluids, once your car fully cycles the oil it lubes the engine for 4 months.

using 0w40 can lube faster, but theres suggestions that it can prematurely damage retainers.
but great fot winter storage as it is super thin.

thinner flows faster ,. thicker builds pressure

you could use a dry sump, but there has been issues of the oil not reaching operating temps. and causing damage.
like the 300sl benz.

there is no real practical way to avoid start up wear. besides never turning the car off.
nissan anti drain back filters are full of oil so it get to the top end quickly.

so again frequent and preventative maintenace with anti drain back filters would be the cheapest most practical way IMO.

[Skym]

Accusump tank setup or Morroso as mentioned above.

CAS plug is removed to prime new turbo's with oil before startup. If you don't, can damage bearings inside turbo CHRA's.

[DRIVER_R32]

accusump page.
"The valve controls the flow of oil between the engine the Accusump. Our Turbo-Oilers do not require any valve system to restrict their oil discharge as they are intended to discharge all their oil at shut down. However our Accusump Oil Accumulators require a valve to close off the unit after shut down in order to hold oil pressure inside so it can pre-lube the engine upon the next start up. "

SO, accusump squirts oil in the top end on start up as its a pressurized unit that traps oil at shut off .. but it says that the turbo oilers do not do this. so there is no additional benefit to the turbo, with this product.

i see how it is good for the top end during pressure loss during aggressive track driving. but even they down play the cold start up oiling.

moroso page
"All Accumulators store oil under pressure and automatically release that oil to the main galleries when oil pressure drops. Moroso Accumulators can also be used to manually pre-lube engines before starting to prevent cold-start scuffing and premature bearing wear."

this is the last line. if there was a huge benefit during the cold start up there would have lead with that as its main intended use and the additional benefits being during pressure loss it... blah blah blah.....

so its a over enginerered anit drain back oil filter... builds pressure after shut down and releases on start up ...

[Dragon Humper]

It's quite a bit more than that.....

If you get the 3 quart model you can have about 10 seconds of prelube if you remember to fill it right up at shutdown (just rev the motor up while closing the valve).

Honestly though, the only startup that will do anything is one after a long storage. As much as people don't like to admit, our engines aren't much more than a old tractor motor with its uber low compression. A modern NA motor with 11-1 will get beat up more than our 8.5-1 lumps at startup.

The Accusump is more for saving a wet sump motor from destruction in the event of the pickup sucking air. The pre-lube angle is a nice bonus but not really the reason to have it on a low compression motor.



Jon.

[gtrte37]

mine has been sitting now for 6 months, what would you guys recommend?

[Skym]

I started mine (with help from a battery booster machine and had been sitting for around 6 months) with old oil, filter (rust builds up on bores, etc and gets scraped off by piston rings and that gets into oil, filter), sparkplugs. Then changed oil, filter, sparkplugs. It ran fine afterwards and has for many years.

Ideally you should remove the sparkplugs, etc and spray the cylinders with fogging oil before letting engine sit for months (to prevent rust forming on bores, etc). That's what they do with racecar engines in the off season.

[DRIVER_R32]

I try to start and drive a little every 3 month to fully cycle everything and keep everything lubed and protected
And since a fully cycled car is protected by its lube for 4 months it easy on the car .
But yes it would be nice to the. Change the filters and lube the. As well
Sorry I'm on iphone

[Skym]

Also I would suggest changing thermostat (can fail), coolant (flush block, heater core, etc when engine is cold), brake fluid (usually had it after about 6 months) as well before driving car. Basically a full service of car.

[NismoS-tune]

My accusump is setup through my vipec in order to disable the accusump on idle/cruising, as the EPC valve is sized for higher pressure. By that I mean, accusump is set at a higher pressure otherwise, it would release oil at idle and cruising ( if I used a higher pressure EPC to protect the high end revs which can be 3-6 times higher pressure) OR if I was using a lover pressure EPC that didn't dischange at idle and I was full throttling through a corner and the pressure dropped to say 50psi (which is still higher than the EPC) the accusump wouldn't discharge but the engine could fail due to lower pressure.

So it's not just a matter of bolting on their kits. You really need to set it up.

I'm thinking about running a second accusump EPC/valve but at low pressure where I could have the ECU toggle between the 2 depending on pressure. I hope this makes sense.

The EPC valves have 1 setting (some are low some are mid some are high) so if it opens at 35psi, it would stay closed at 45psi if it got that low, when you're engine would be normally pushing say 90psi. I think I've hit 9Bar with spirited driving. I'm sure it could go higher. ANyway. I use mine for surge protection and prelube with a 3 quart tank. What's $600 when my 3rd engine cost $20k!

[Dragon Humper]

I hope 9 bar was a typo because there is absolutely no reason to have more than 80psi of oil pressure. Any more than 65 psi in my opinion is just wasting HP. and putting uneeded strain on the pump and oil seals/gaskets. As long as everything is setup properly (ie: no gigantic oil clearences) you shouldn't need that much pressure or volume that a lot of hy-po oil systems can generate for the RB.

FWIW I have a stock pump on my car.



Jon.

[jimBNR32]

nice to see some opinions.
only reason i thought of the question is because of what little i read.
i guess its unavoidable wear. as oil will be cold.
if i have 10 cold starts a week, thats the same wear as 10 cold starts over 6months.
so smaller amount of cold starts the better i guess.

[NismoS-tune]

9 bar wasn't a typo. Sadly if it's wrong ten I'll have to get my pump shimmed for lower pressure, I got a tomei pump installed and that's what I got for pressure. I'm running tighter clearances too. My Pulsar sees over 100psi with a stock pump lol

I use 5-40 oil, maybe it's too thick? Lol