Looking for kind and geniue advices from you GTR guru's

[Skym]

N1 oil pump (plan on upgrading)

That probably would be why it failed (ran a bearing). N1 oil pump works with stock cast pistons, etc and around 500hp at 6000rpm (within stock rev limiters which is around 7500rpm). They run Group-A oil pump (similar to Tomei oil pump) with forged RB26 engines producing up to 650hp (Group-A engines), reving up to around 8000rpm (raising rev limit).

Tomei explains what happens when running stock oil pump vs Tomei oil pump (mentions excessive bearing wear, hence engine runs a bearing) -

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e114_RB_oillube.html

Higher reving engine, stroker kit requires higher oil pressure, volume of oil, basically a Tomei oil pump (it's listed on Tomei's specs for stroker engine and I noticed it needs an enlarged sump, at least 9 litres, because Tomei oil pump moves more oil).

Stroker kit specs (mentions Tomei sump, Tomei oil pump) -

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/000_complete-engine/en_engine_rb26dett.htm

Basically have to use the correct oil pump, sump capacity for application. Amount of revs play a big part in what oil pump you fit to engine.

Stroker kit is needed if have a huge intercooler, big turbo's (higher hp engines) that makes it more laggy. What I mean is if you put your foot down, the bigger capacity engine reduces the time (seconds or milliseconds) between engine hesitating, then accelerating. Important with drag racing due to reduced hesitation after each gear change, race track when exiting corners quicker, overtaking on road, etc.

Autobahn88 intercooler

Also ditch this, as it will rob engine of hp (have to pull ignition timing to stop engine knocking, which cost's hp). Basically use a decent tube n fin intercooler (HDI, ARC, etc) and make sure it's sized correctly for application.

If unsure on size, look at this (easy way without doing the calculations) -

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/intercoolers

Those are bar n plate sizes and tube n fin flows, cools better. You can see 20awkw+ difference from just switching to correct size intercooler (more hp on bigger hp engines). awkw x 1.341 = awhp (british hp, not US hp).

Alot of these mistakes can be avoided by talking to experienced tuners and / or buying a crate engine from Tomei, R.I.P.S or similar. Most tuners learn from their own mistakes or from tuners like Tomei, etc who have done the testing, etc.

[leung23c]

I highly doubt the engine spun a bearing because of the oil pump, because it happened at 5000rpm on dyno, for a brief moment......it may have crank walked....for whatever reason it is.

As for the 450-500hp on snow, well I drive it in summer too, right?

I really think getting a used engine is my best choice but I have no way to verify the durability and reliability of it....which is my biggest worry.

The lesson I have learnt is...do more ******* research haha!

[Skym]

Oh, ok.

Clutches have been known to be the cause of crank walking on RB engines. From what I understand, it's something to do with clutch engaging, disengaging (forces) which moves the crank or clamping forces.

A leak down test to check rings (air in sump), valves (air in intake manifold, exhaust manifold), test oil pressure via aftermarket oil pressure gauge and compare to factory oil pump figures / specs to check bearing, cam wear (oil pressure drops when bearings fail, worn or has cam clearance problems). Can run engine outside of car to do these test's (test on ground with radiator, battery, loom, engine ECU, etc connected).

Also that's not taking into account oil leaks from camcover gasket's, etc.

[NismoS-tune]

My engine crank walked at 1,200km at Lightspeed. Was all forged, everything new. Clutch was suspected but it was adjusted right and had 1,100kg force (twin Carbonetic). The thrust bearing was suspected but seemed fine when measured afterwards. One of the leading causes was that during some over fueling problems (stalling) the car was started 9 times, while trouble shooting, with the clutch in the whole time (meaning full clutch pressure on thrust bearing with no oil pressure).

New engine was chucked as the block was also cracked. Has since installed an anti crank walk ignition relay so it can't be started in gear or clutched in now.

[leung23c]

one question: will starting the car in gear with clutch out hurt the engine?

[Dragon Humper]

Yes it is hard on the dry brgings to start in gear. You should always start the engine, gear in neutral and foot off the clutch. You should never start a dry engine with the clutch pedal depressed (dry as in hasnt been run for a few days).



Jon.

[NismoS-tune]

All vehicles that are manual (after 1995 I think when the released the clutch safety switch?) has to start with the clutch in. My engine cranked walk because of too many starts with the clutch in, maybe because my clutch is too stiff? (1,100kg)