Question for those with Aftermarket LSDs

[Z-Tuned]

Installing a Tomei Technical Trax rear LSD #EA20 and had a few questions:

- My shop is asking if it's a direct fit or will it need all kinds of shims claiming older cars need them.
- Did you use supplied gear old? gasket? bearings?
- any other parts I should have on hand that might break during Re&Re?
- Any other possibly obstacles when we pull the old R200 and try and get this one in there just don't want to pull it apart and have it on hoist for million years.

Post your experiences.

Much thanks!

[jonask]

Hi, I have the Tomei Technical Trax rear LSD (2ways) for a gts-t r32

The shop that did the job didn't need to "fit" with shims or other stuff.
From their words, it did not required special fittings.
Just be sure to do business with a specialized shop for differential/transmission. don't go in "general" mechanic shop.
This differential is serious, it is very loud (if you have the 2 ways).

[hozer]

Tomei is direct fitment for pre-1993/02 BNR32 and all HCR32.
For the post 1993/02 BNR32 they require new flange assemblies.

Have fun breaking it in lol. Hope you have a strong stomach

[Z-Tuned]

Hi, I have the Tomei Technical Trax rear LSD (2ways) for a gts-t r32

The shop that did the job didn't need to "fit" with shims or other stuff.
From their words, it did not required special fittings.
Just be sure to do business with a specialized shop for differential/transmission. don't go in "general" mechanic shop.
This differential is serious, it is very loud (if you have the 2 ways).

Yes the shop I'm doing the work at is very specialized with Porsche, race cars and classics. They were paranoid with experiences fitting LSDs in older cars - so just wanted to take a poll.

But sounds like I can let them know its drop-in. I did get the 2-way but the car is super loud as it is so...

Tomei is direct fitment for pre-1993/02 BNR32 and all HCR32.
For the post 1993/02 BNR32 they require new flange assemblies.

Have fun breaking it in lol. Hope you have a strong stomach

Yes, I have early '89 so got the early part number. Tomei said it's a drop in affair as well.

What is the break-in process? I didn't crack the manual yet... I hope it's max corning G's LOL.

[hozer]

I hope it's max corning G's LOL.

You say that now haha.

Figure 8's at 30km/h. Accelerate in the straight, clutch in on the bend, repeat for 30 mins. Then 20 full lock circles right, then 20 full lock left.

From personal experience, slurpees and sweet chili heat nachos for a 'fun break in' are highly discouraged.


On a serious note, go to home depot after hours and their light posts are spaced perfectly for the exercise.

[future_R34]

^^^Best reply I've seen in a while


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Z-Tuned]

You say that now haha.

Figure 8's at 30km/h. Accelerate in the straight, clutch in on the bend, repeat for 30 mins. Then 20 full lock circles right, then 20 full lock left.

From personal experience, slurpees and sweet chili heat nachos for a 'fun break in' are highly discouraged.


On a serious note, go to home depot after hours and their light posts are spaced perfectly for the exercise.

But on break-in day there are 3 for 1 Chili Dogs!

30 mins ounds like a work out. I imagine I cant pop the fuses.and drift it at least?

Hope I end up liking it with all the effort.

[hozer]

but the break-in day there is a 3 for 1 Chili Dogs!

30 mins ounds like a work out. I imagine I cant pop the fuses.and drift it at least?

Hope I end up liking it with all the effort.

Do yourself a solid and pass on the dogs haha.

No drifting, you want that sweet, full lock, chattering noise of the clutch plates rubbing and forming a nice flat friction surface.

Glad you asked this because many people aren't aware that some diff clutch plates need to be worn in. It can affect diff performance significantly

[Z-Tuned]

Well last two clutches I have run are carbon fiber multi-plates, which require no break-in. Install and slip them out to launch all you want... so kinda was thinking that what but of course it needs a break in.

Now... Tomei suppllies the gear oil, which is pricey and I've read you have to drain that first gear oil after break in, so put in cheaper synth first time?

[Bruizer]

The os giken rear and front weren't quite drop in either. Needed a bit of grinding to fit into the housings (bigger I guess), shims, bearings and seals. Break in wasn't noticeable. The good thing about the metal clutches is that you can catch the debris and wear with a magnet plug but the organic or carbon clutches cant' be caught... pretty abrasive stuff. How does one catch the fillings and wear debris of carbon clutch deposits?

[Z-Tuned]

Yeah I used to have an ATS Across carbon fiber rear LSD but decided to sell it for that reason. They sound great on paper but had loads of problems early on and I wasn't sure about the carbon bits either.

Turns out their problems were in fact metal filings not carbon as the carbon plates were too hard and metal too soft.

ATS problems explained (complete with Gran Turismo-style music): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UQkbWDGtZs

[Z-Tuned]

Any thoughts on which gear oil to use first for break-in? Since it has to be changed fairly quickly should bother using pricey TOMEI gear oil first or cheaper synthetic, to drain filings and debris, then the good stuff.

FYI I typically use REDLINE 75W90 in the past.

[hozer]

Any thoughts on which gear oil to use first for break-in? Since it has to be changed fairly quickly should bother using pricey TOMEI gear oil first or cheaper synthetic, to drain filings and debris, then the good stuff.

FYI I typically use REDLINE 75W90 in the past.

Any GL-5 will do. W90 better for pure street, will be a bit less aggressive. W140 is better for a more aggressive feel and some track days.

As for break-in, use anything GL-5. It gets drained right after break-in so some people like to use cheap stuff.