What oil and filter should i use?

[ownedbynak]

Any suggestions? I know it's a noob question but yeah..

[PL_GTR]

nissan oem, for a 240sx 1992 - 1994 i believe and get the drain plug gasket as well

[ownedbynak]

A standard Nissan OEM filter?

[Hovinga]

oil filter number from nissan is 15208-55y00, i just used one yesterday. go to a dealer and ask for one, nissan's actually only use 3 different filters.

[supersayianjim]

i use wix for a z32 on my rb 20 and no problems..

[jdm_fantasy]

15w50 oil and z32 filter (k&n filter is nice if you dont have a relocat kit being as it has a welded nut on the end)

[collector240sx]

Well, just stay away from Fram filters (old motormaster with red lettering,
is the same filter).

The new motormaster filter with all black lettering are a lot better than the
old one made by frame. It's made by bounjou or something like that, they
actually make OEM filters for Volkswagen and NISSAN.

I use to always buy the Valvoline filters but can't find them anymore.
Napa gold are made by wix - Great filter
Quaker state filters are good
Mobile 1 filters are just coming out around my place, haven't been able to
look at the inside of one yet. (Should check if they subcontract them too)

Like previously said just ask for a 240sx or 300zx oil filter.
Personaly I would just suggest you go to your nearest NAPA and get
there gold filters.

[m_melen]

blue nissan filter for 1991 300ZX twin turbo worked for me. and i use royal purple synthetic 10w30, but i'll be switching to a thicker oil now that im down where it never snows

[collector240sx]

For the oil, there a couple of thread you should read. If you search I'm
sure you will find more than one.

A screw it, here's one I started it's a sticky in the FAQ.

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/faq/t-info-on-oil-49748.html

If you start with a good company it's a good start.

It's kind of hard to know what to suggest what grade you should use.
But here is the ideal way to pic one, get a good oil pressure gauge
get the car to operating condition, and drive it like you would normaly.
So if your going to drive it like a granny all the time, drive it like a granny.
If your going to be beating on it all the time, do exactly that.
Get reading of the oil pressure when your driving.
If the oil pressure is higher then recommended get something lighter
If the oil pressure is lower then recommended get something ticker

Since your probably not going to do that:
One way to look at it, if your driving on the highway all the time and
take it easy. I would look at something like 5W30 or 10W30. (really unlikely)
If you see some traffic jam often, it's really hard to cool a running car
that is stationary, so the engine run hotter at that time, I would
check into something like 5W40, 15W40 (diesel oil lol).
If you want to beat on it regularly, I would look into a 15W50.
Track car or beat on it like there's no tomorrow. I would look into
20W60.

So if you plan on driving it into traffic, and beating on it once in a while,
I would suggest at least 15W40 something like Shell Rotella diesel oil.
It's actually pretty good oil and it's available every where, even in 20L.
Price is actually pretty reasonable too.

But company like: Aimsol, Royal Purple, Motul all make good oil. Some of it
can get pretty pricey.

Hope this help.

[a14]

I use mobil 10w30 full syn
and k&n hp-2008 filter

[RABBIT]

this thread should not exist ...
better yet the thought of making this thread should not have ever been conjured.

[DarkCaporaL]

Napa Gold #1361. 15$ flat tax included. It's a wix filter.

[JNS Performance]

this thread should not exist ...
better yet the thought of making this thread should not have ever been conjured.

+1

There is about 80 million oil & filter threads lol

[Feint]

For the oil, there a couple of thread you should read. If you search I'm
sure you will find more than one.

A screw it, here's one I started it's a sticky in the FAQ.

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/faq/t-info-on-oil-49748.html

If you start with a good company it's a good start.

It's kind of hard to know what to suggest what grade you should use.
But here is the ideal way to pic one, get a good oil pressure gauge
get the car to operating condition, and drive it like you would normaly.
So if your going to drive it like a granny all the time, drive it like a granny.
If your going to be beating on it all the time, do exactly that.
Get reading of the oil pressure when your driving.
If the oil pressure is higher then recommended get something lighter
If the oil pressure is lower then recommended get something ticker

Since your probably not going to do that:
One way to look at it, if your driving on the highway all the time and
take it easy. I would look at something like 5W30 or 10W30. (really unlikely)
If you see some traffic jam often, it's really hard to cool a running car
that is stationary, so the engine run hotter at that time, I would
check into something like 5W40, 15W40 (diesel oil lol).
If you want to beat on it regularly, I would look into a 15W50.
Track car or beat on it like there's no tomorrow. I would look into
20W60.

So if you plan on driving it into traffic, and beating on it once in a while,
I would suggest at least 15W40 something like Shell Rotella diesel oil.
It's actually pretty good oil and it's available every where, even in 20L.
Price is actually pretty reasonable too.

But company like: Aimsol, Royal Purple, Motul all make good oil. Some of it
can get pretty pricey.

Hope this help.

I studiously read through that thread and have noticed that your oil choices contradict the principles in oil selection discussed in that thread, namely your choice of thicker weight oils for traffic jam situations in which the original author suggested that as bunk, due to heat increases being relatively slow at low RPM and bhp output, and that the oil would not have an issue in gradual heat rises regardless of weight; it would be the cooling system if anything, which as he labelled, cannot exceed 230F. What I am getting at is why you would suggest to the OP to read the stickies thread you posted and then suggest a 15-40W grade oil for traffic and ocassional beatings when that advice is so far out to left field from what was suggested, that it's out of the ball park and passed the parking lot.

I am not trying to be inflammatory here, I am just pressing hard to intelligently get to the bottom of oil selection, and perhaps your reasoning for that oil choice. It's complicated, and in my experience, few forums even have members willing to go this far in depth to properly research things like oil selection, among other things. I'd like to keep the ball rolling a bit here, I've done some searching and I haven't found much that isn't extremely generic, so I think this could be even more beneficial.

Good find btw.

[collector240sx]

Feint,

Technically, you would be absolutely correct, but in this situation we are
talking about a 20-25 years old car with a stock cooling system. You can
keep your car has clean has you like the cooling system of a car this age
is bound to have sludge and all kind of deposit on is inner wall, there for
preventing the cooling system to work perfectly.

That and I will never completely trust the cooling system of any car over
20 years. I personally help my father clean the cooling channel in his 350,
and trust me after you see all the crap that can stay in there. There is
no way the system can cool the engine properly.

The main issue being that the sludge inside the channel after a while could
easily start acting has a barrier between the block and the prestone.
essentially letting the block run warmer and warmer. Can also happen in
isolated spot.

So the authors is correct when he stated that statement. Unfortunately,
if for theorie you can factor out variable, in the real world we have to
live with them. The difference could easily be negligible in some car, but
could just has easily go up to 20 degree higher in other. Remember
the temp sensor is next to the thermostat in front of the engine, where
it's usually much cleaner. How often do you check the temperature of the
back of an engine ? So in a case like this when the cooling system is not
cooling the engine in a uniform manner, it's up to the oiling system to take
up the slack.

Well that's what I think anyway. You can make your own decision.

Thanks for pointing it out, and hope it's help you understand why I said
what I did.

One of the reason he did say to use thinner oil in the older car, is because
some of them, with hydrolic lifters, have really small oil channel, that with
age gets partially block. And using thinner oil makes it easier for the oil to
get there.