Best Reliability Mods for R32 GT-R?

[aN4rk1]

Tried to search, didn't quite find what I was looking for.

So I own a R32 GT-R and it is my daily driver, so far, absolutely no big qualms about it but tranny (as can be expected ) But I do have a few plans for it such as:
Boost Controller
Wideband
Stand Alone ECU
Dyno Tuning

I want to be able to push out the max HP that will be safely possible after all that. I have no plans to track the car. The previous owner has done a few things such as:
HKS Intercooler (I know this probably isn't a reliability thing but heck, it beats stock!)
Turbo Timer (I guess this counts haha)
Oil Filter Relocation Mod

So Iam wondering what other things I can do to make it as reliable as my parents Corolla () So far I want to add a HKS timing belt and air separation setup by ARC.

Ive heard good things about the tension-er pulley + spring, and not so good things about the N1 water-pump for daily driver hence the air separation unit.

Ive already changed the plugs and changed most of the fluids. Any other ideas is greatly appreciated!

[Skym]

I wouldn't recommend air separation bottle unless you have upgraded welsh / water plugs, metal headgasket, thicker radiator. The radiator cap they provide in those air separation bottle kits is a higher pressure radiator cap, which is normally used on thicker race style radiators.

If want a bit of hp and reliability, follow the Nismo S-tune engine specs -

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory/original_menu/engine_m/s1/index.html

For ECU retune, can use Nistune which allows you to change ECU tune anytime you want or need to (reflash stock ECU like most modern cars, but tune in realtime).

[jimbojones]

Tried to search, didn't quite find what I was looking for.

So I own a R32 GT-R and it is my daily driver, so far, absolutely no big qualms about it but tranny (as can be expected ) But I do have a few plans for it such as:
Boost Controller
Wideband
Stand Alone ECU
Dyno Tuning

I want to be able to push out the max HP that will be safely possible after all that. I have no plans to track the car. The previous owner has done a few things such as:
HKS Intercooler (I know this probably isn't a reliability thing but heck, it beats stock!)
Turbo Timer (I guess this counts haha)
Oil Filter Relocation Mod

So Iam wondering what other things I can do to make it as reliable as my parents Corolla () So far I want to add a HKS timing belt and air separation setup by ARC.

Ive heard good things about the tension-er pulley + spring, and not so good things about the N1 water-pump for daily driver hence the air separation unit.

Ive already changed the plugs and changed most of the fluids. Any other ideas is greatly appreciated!

If you want to make it as reliable as your folks Corolla, then wire the turbo wastegates WIDE OPEN. Seriously...boosting an engine is not going to extend it's life. Why do you think your tranny is acting up?!? Cuz someone's been boosting and worn it down...if it had been used for 'getting groceries and driving grandma to church' it would still be in good shape.

More boost = less life re: boost controller...factory one is dumbed-down to help prevent you from blowing up the engine.

N1 water pump/air separation unit - what does that mean?!? Are you talking about 'cavitation'? If so, that is something different and it's actually BETTER to have the N1 water pump to prevent it but that applies to high RPM driving. If you're talking a higher-pressure radiator cap, then you need to take the advice given above and that is still independant of whatever water pump you use.

Whats with the standalone ECU? That is not a cost-effective mod for a mildly-modded car and only a mildly-modded car is going to last reasonably long.

Sounds like you want a bunch of power without having risk...that simply doesnt exist. Often when I hear this is because the guy is also being Cheap e.g. doesn't have the money to do things properly and can't afford to fix the engine if it gets wrecked. It's been said many times but here it is again: FAST, RELIABLE, CHEAP..you only get to pick 2...

[aN4rk1]

I wouldn't recommend air separation bottle unless you have upgraded welsh / water plugs, metal headgasket, thicker radiator. The radiator cap they provide in those air separation bottle kits is a higher pressure radiator cap, which is normally used on thicker race style radiators.

If want a bit of hp and reliability, follow the Nismo S-tune engine specs -

http://www.nismo.co.jp/omori_factory/original_menu/engine_m/s1/index.html

For ECU retune, can use Nistune which allows you to change ECU tune anytime you want or need to (reflash stock ECU like most modern cars, but tune in realtime).

I see, thanks for the input on the air separation unit.
Also, is that link in English somewhere? I know i can go to the Nismo website in English, But I cant seem to make my way back to that page. I have heard of Nistune before, where do i get that? just download somewhere>?

If you want to make it as reliable as your folks Corolla, then wire the turbo wastegates WIDE OPEN. Seriously...boosting an engine is not going to extend it's life. Why do you think your tranny is acting up?!? Cuz someone's been boosting and worn it down...if it had been used for 'getting groceries and driving grandma to church' it would still be in good shape.

More boost = less life re: boost controller...factory one is dumbed-down to help prevent you from blowing up the engine.

N1 water pump/air separation unit - what does that mean?!? Are you talking about 'cavitation'? If so, that is something different and it's actually BETTER to have the N1 water pump to prevent it but that applies to high RPM driving. If you're talking a higher-pressure radiator cap, then you need to take the advice given above and that is still independant of whatever water pump you use.

Whats with the standalone ECU? That is not a cost-effective mod for a mildly-modded car and only a mildly-modded car is going to last reasonably long.

Sounds like you want a bunch of power without having risk...that simply doesnt exist. Often when I hear this is because the guy is also being Cheap e.g. doesn't have the money to do things properly and can't afford to fix the engine if it gets wrecked. It's been said many times but here it is again: FAST, RELIABLE, CHEAP..you only get to pick 2...

I dont want a crap load of power, I just want to keep what I have "hardware" wise and then tune it using the ecu and boost controller, hence the standalone. I pick Fast and Reliable :P I never said money was the biggest issue but its not like I have a ton of cash that I can dump into the car. That being said, I am more then willing to wait a little longer and get a better part that costs a little more. So what do you suggest I do? My goals:
1) Primarily, Make the car as reliable as possible
2) Add the boost controller and ECU, or retune the stock ecu and tune the car to push out max HP within safe limits.

Increasing cooling will most certainly help. So:
- Nismo or Koyo Rad
- Nismo Thermostat
- Nismo Diff oil cooler

[Skym]

I think was around 400hp at engine for S-tune engine with stock R34GTR turbo's, etc.

Roughly 390-400hp at engine can be done with stock injectors, stock fuelpump, stock R32GTR turbo's (if in good condition), stock AFM's (boost up with podfilters, full exhaust from turbo's, ECU, boost controller, clutch upgrades, etc). Max hp I noticed stock R32GTR turbo's are capable of with upgraded injectors, fuelpump, intercooler?, Z32AFM's x2 + plugs, ECU retune is 430hp at engine. With upgraded intercooler it adds roughly 27hp.

Use a website translator for Japanese part of Nismo website -

http://www.google.co.nz/language_tools?hl=en

or

http://babelfish.yahoo.com/

Info about what Nistune is and looks like, etc, can be found here -

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/group-buys/t-official-nistune-group-buy-50623.html

[bobbo]

With upgraded intercooler it adds roughly 27hp.

Is that just because of a lack of efficiency with oem intercooler? I understood the stock one would flow sufficiently for up to 600hp(ish).

Curious how much head work would effect those numbers.

[aN4rk1]

Thanks SkyM. Very helpful info, Learning a lot.

[Skym]

Better at cooling, more air reaches engine. Sometimes boost at intake manifold can increase by 1.5psi or so. But probably won't notice any gain in psi with a stock ECU that controls boost level (ECU won't let boost level rise).

For example with intercooler upgrade on a R33 25T (similar capacity engine to RB26) -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6FJUmChzgQ

17.2kw / 23hp gain with intercooler upgrade and not touching ECU tune.

On one persons R33GTR, roughly 400rwkw / 536awhp was possible with stock R33GTR intercooler. But stock R33GTR intercooler is better than stock R32GTR intercooler and R34GTR stock intercooler is better than R33GTR stock intercooler.

R34GTR has been proven to produce roughly 330hp in stock trim, even though it is said to produce 280hp (gentleman's agreement in Japan to not excede 280hp with stock car). R32GTR was 311hp and R33GTR 320hp and alot more hp than the claimed 280hp. Lots of things changed between R32-R34GTR like turbo size, intercooler, ECU tune, etc, that probably explains the hp difference. There's like nearly a 20hp difference between R33GTR N1 (442hp), R34GTR N1 (460hp) turbo's.

[bobbo]

Ok Skym I gotta ask...
How the eff do you know all of this stuff?!?
Good info though, Thanks!

[aN4rk1]

Better at cooling, more air reaches engine. Sometimes boost at intake manifold can increase by 1.5psi or so. But probably won't notice any gain in psi with a stock ECU that controls boost level (ECU won't let boost level rise).

For example with intercooler upgrade on a R33 25T (similar capacity engine to RB26) -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6FJUmChzgQ

17.2kw / 23hp gain with intercooler upgrade and not touching ECU tune.

On one persons R33GTR, roughly 400rwkw / 536awhp was possible with stock R33GTR intercooler. But stock R33GTR intercooler is better than stock R32GTR intercooler and R34GTR stock intercooler is better than R33GTR stock intercooler.

R34GTR has been proven to produce roughly 330hp in stock trim, even though it is said to produce 280hp (gentleman's agreement in Japan to not excede 280hp with stock car). R32GTR was 311hp and R33GTR 320hp and alot more hp than the claimed 280hp. Lots of things changed between R32-R34GTR like turbo size, intercooler, ECU tune, etc, that probably explains the hp difference. There's like nearly a 20hp difference between R33GTR N1 (442hp), R34GTR N1 (460hp) turbo's.

I have a HKS Intercooler already. I WAS thinking about Nismo but this one seems to work great. So far plans are:
- Nismo Thermostat
- Nismo Diff Oil Cooler
- Nismo Rad

What else can I do for cooling? Upgrade Rad fan? Suggestions for upgrades?

[Skym]

Web (the dynochart for R34GTR dyno graph comparing stock vs real stock figure and from what I can remember mentions the R32GTR, R33GTR stock engine hp figures, dynocharts of R33N1 vs R34N1 turbo's when compared in Japan, etc), friends that are tuners, customers cars of these tuners, etc. What I learnt from my own car, etc.

The Japanese tuners follow a stage tuning system (similar system in USA for V8's), so can see the mods required from stock to 1000hp+ for RB26DETT and for RB25DET, RB20DET, SR20DET, etc. Things like when you change cams, turbo's, injectors, etc are all shown in the stage tuning system list's. Every tuner has a different spec of cam, turbo, etc, so stage tuning system differs from tuner to tuner. But basic boost up like mentioned above for GTR is common knowledge amongst tuners. You can find the stage tuning system list's on the internet, but they are not in English (Japanese) and sometimes are removed from websites after a short period of time.

You can find that R34GTR real hp vs stock hp dynograph for engine around somewhere on the internet (UK???). It's got blue line for factory vs red for real hp R34GTR produces.

For cooling, air to oil engine oilcooler is must have an any car, including GTR. Thicker radiator is good if you can run a higher pressue radiator cap, but water plugs can pop, etc with higher pressure, so probably best to stick with factory until engine can be upgraded to suit.

[DarKcyde]

Leave it completely stock. That's the only way anything is going to be even remotely reliable. Do NOT increase boost.

Take all thoughts about "push out the max HP" and beat them out of your skull.

Change your fluids twice as often as everyone tells you.

Do the whole timing belt, water pump, t-stat service for peace of mind. Replace everything attached to the engine, including new tensioner stud and idler bolt.

Take care of it and don't beat the crap out of it.

Lastly, LEAVE IT STOCK.

but you're not going to listen anyway :/

[aN4rk1]

Leave it completely stock. That's the only way anything is going to be even remotely reliable. Do NOT increase boost.

Take all thoughts about "push out the max HP" and beat them out of your skull.

Change your fluids twice as often as everyone tells you.

Do the whole timing belt, water pump, t-stat service for peace of mind. Replace everything attached to the engine, including new tensioner stud and idler bolt.

Take care of it and don't beat the crap out of it.

Lastly, LEAVE IT STOCK.

but you're not going to listen anyway :/

Lol, 90% of the stuff on the car now, was from when I bought it a month ago. Like I said, I have no intention or adding HUGE turbos, this, that so on. I want to increase cooling and play around with what I have. I do plan to take care of it and no beating it either (haha).

[Skym]

If want reliability, longevity, leave it stock. But you can just retune stock ECU with Nistune, fit engine oilcooler (lengthens oil lifespan and reduces heat on engine, turbo bearings, etc) and be happy with what you have and will last a good distance (slightly less than stock car). I've noticed Skyline engines with mild mods lasting 250,000km without touching engine. I gather servicing them properly is why they last 250,000km.

[NismoS-tune]

Have you thought of trading the skyline for the corolla? It's the only way to keep it that reliable. You bought a 20 year old sports car (a car that makes power and is normally beat on) but you want it to be really reliable. Shoulda got a newer evo or sti with warranty and call it a day. Welcome to the money pit