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  • Turtle Accelleration

    I traded my 90 jeep yj for 91 skyline r32 4 door 2 weeks ago and the jeep had faster accelleration then the skyline and i got rid of the jeep becasue it was to slow. Theres was a new tranny put in a short while ago could that be the reason is so slow maybe they didn't put the right one in? or does it just need to be tuned some to get moving? everything seems stock, Thanks

  • #2
    Is the skyline turbocharged?

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    • #3
      lol is this for real
      1991 Black GTR

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      • #4
        yes it single turbo and automatic tranny, i hold the pedal to the ground and it crawls then once it gets going around 40km it starts to take off.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Kras View Post
          lol is this for real
          sadly it is real

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          • #6
            Best thread ever. Can't wait to see where this goes.
            1995 R33 GTR Vspec - Sold
            2004 Dodge SRT-4 Stage 3R - Sold
            2013 Subaru WRX STI - Where is the power? - Daily

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            • #7
              Have you driven a turbo car before? Depending on your setup (I'm assuming stock) you wont's start getting boost pressure until around 3,000-4,000 rpm. So no, you probably won't feel much power under 40km/hr.
              RightDrive Inc. Parts Manager
              http://www.rightdrive.ca :: http://www.rightdriveparts.com :: http://www.rightdriveusa.com
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              • #8
                gotta love automatic turbo cars- hold the acceleraton down...... then Woosh!
                '95 GTR

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                • #9
                  maybe take some vids, this car isnt red is it?
                  Proud owner of the 2nd Skyline and the only GTR on the island!

                  Boost@14PSI, YellowJacket Coils, Extreme TSC, Full Nismo N1 Bodykit, Greddy Speed Cut Controller, HKS Turbo Timer, 280LPH Denso Fuel Pump, Nismo Slave Cylinder, AMS BOVs, Nismo Clutch Pivot, ACT Xtreme 6 Puck and HDPP, Greddy Panel Filter

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by MooSe View Post
                    yes it single turbo and automatic tranny, i hold the pedal to the ground and it crawls then once it gets going around 40km it starts to take off.
                    Do you have a huge turbo that takes a while to spool? But yeah, usually turbo cars are pretty slow under 3500-4000rpm depending on your turbo size and other factors.
                    BNR32- Sold
                    1998 Evolution V

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by MooSe View Post
                      yes it single turbo and automatic tranny, i hold the pedal to the ground and it crawls then once it gets going around 40km it starts to take off.
                      Just how stock is it? Are we talking bone stock right down the the factory exhaust? If so, that, combined with being an old car + an automatic transmission probably means it's struggling to make 140hp

                      And yeah, a 2 litre 6 with a short stroke and small bores trying to spool a turbo below 3000rpm just doesn't happen very well. Even with a bunch of bolt ons and the stock turbo, it's completely and utterly devoid of power below 3000, some would even say below 4000rpm it's useless. And that's with a 5 speed.

                      Convert it to a 5 speed and put a turbo back exhaust on it. Leave the stock airbox intact and just use an aftermwarket panel filter in the stock airbox. It'll still be slow, but at least it will be fun to drive with a 5 speed :P

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                      • #12
                        No i haven't driven/owned a turbo car befor.The car is blue? I'm not sure of size differance of turbos, i'm kinda teaching myself everything as i go with help from you guys when i can't figure it out. I'm pretty sure its bone stock, it just seems thats its really slow at take off sence my old wore out 90 wrangler could take off faster then it not talking about boost/turbo it crawls like as fast as i can walk, say im making a left hand turn and other side traffic right turn lane is blocking my view i have to wait till yellow and not take a chance and step on it cause its that slow. Just doesn't seem normal. i'll try and take a video of it taking off and show ya's(i'll get the gf to walk beside the car and show you she can pass me walking lol) Thanks for all your help so far guys i'll check into more stuff.

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                        • #13
                          run a compression test
                          Proud owner of the 2nd Skyline and the only GTR on the island!

                          Boost@14PSI, YellowJacket Coils, Extreme TSC, Full Nismo N1 Bodykit, Greddy Speed Cut Controller, HKS Turbo Timer, 280LPH Denso Fuel Pump, Nismo Slave Cylinder, AMS BOVs, Nismo Clutch Pivot, ACT Xtreme 6 Puck and HDPP, Greddy Panel Filter

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                          • #14
                            That's not normal.

                            Pull the pan on auto trans and change the filter in trans with filter in service kit and clean the magnet on pan, refit pan with new cork gasket in service kit, refill pan via dipstick that's located next too engine on drivers side in engine bay. Then drive around the block and check oil level again via dipstick. I think fluid was Dexron 3, but double check that, as I don't want to put you wrong. The trans part number for service kit is on the blue id plate in engine bay.

                            You might want to pull one of the hoses (into stock oilcooler) off stock autotrans oilcooler and let it drain into pan while engine is idling to clean out fluid in auto trans, etc every 40,000-60,000km and refill at same time with new fluid via dipstick hole (I think it should pump 6 litres every minute if in good condition). But if autotrans hasn't been serviced in a while (every 10,000km or 1 year, whichever is first), probably better to drain, refill trans, etc. Or go to autotrans specialist and get them to flush system with machine and change filter, etc.

                            Why I say to do this, if filter mouth on filter is too long (there are similar filters that fit, but mouth is too long) that sucks fluid in, can touch the pan and starve auto trans of fluid. This causes the revs to flare to higher rpm (above shift point), then car suddenly moves. Sometimes people grind down mouth down a little to fit, but still not enough and causes flaring problems.

                            Another common problem is oilcooler in bottom of radiator can clog and cause similar problems, so might need to get stock oilcooler cleaned out by radiator specialist. Or replace with aftermarket auto trans oilcooler. With aftermarket oilcooler, can change fluid every 20,000km or 1 year, whichever is first. But run in series (aftermarket, then stock oilcooler) if in cold environment like snow to get autotrans up to temperature.

                            Starving autotrans of fluid that cools the autotrans = overheat and autotrans can fail, so don't leave it.

                            Auto trans Skyline is fairly quick once modified properly and can run into high 13sec with mild mods like Stage 2 hybrid stock turbo, fuelpump, ECU, intake, exhaust, suspension. There's usually a 16rwkw difference between auto and manual trans at higher rpm. From what I understand, auto trans can slip at lower rpm's and that is why it feels less than a manual down low. When autotrans locks up, similar mechanical connection to a manual trans and it will accelerate hard.

                            You can go all out and fit manual valvebody, autotrans oilcooler, shiftkit, higher stall torque convertor, etc to get more hp to ground.

                            Auto trans is made by JATCO (Japanese Automatic Transmission Company) in Japan (part of Nissan), so there should be parts available in US for them from JATCO USA -



                            JATCO Japan -

                            Last edited by Skym; 07-17-2010, 04:41 AM.
                            RESPONSE MONSTER

                            The most epic signature ever "epic".

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                            • #15
                              if you want your turbo to spool quicker, take the black wire on your solinoid and ground it to the chasy not to the ecu...this help your turbo run a constant 7psi not 5psi untill 4500 rpm and then 7 after that

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