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  • Identify the part:) little help

    alright got a few parts that im pretty sure need replacing and just some info on them would be nice.


    i wish i could open paint so bare with me please. whats that cylinder thing in the middle of the picture with the black wire plugged into it. I heard replacing this might fix idle problems. My car when first started idles a lil above 1 then decreases until it put puts then shuts off.



    its blurry but what is that light on the right side of the cluster to teh left of the open door light? It has heat lines coming from it. It wont turn off even when the keys are out.


    wondering the purpose of this little button beside the key hole. All i notice is i cant take out the key unless i push it.


    red clamp is messed. any way to replace it?

    sorry for the noob stuff. First car and it had to be a nice complicated skyline

  • #2
    1. AACV Solenoid - typically replace the whole unit (the piece thats actually bonded to the intake manifold) to alleviate idling issues. But first, begin with doing a thorough cleaning of it. Check my build thread for instructions; Nelsonmxmarc's GTST build.

    2. Thats your EGT sensor. It also picks up knock warnings as far as i know. It could be on due to a short in the EGT wiring, or because the ECU is in diagnostic mode. EGT wires will short where they pass through the floor under the passenger seat. The probe enters the side of the cat. This is not a necessary probe (in most cases) and can be removed. Its possible it has been cut and removed already, thus why the light is on at all times.
    To check for ECU diagnostic mode, the screw on the side of the ECU will be turned full Clockwise (to the best of my knowledge). Return it to the full left or counter clockwise "running" position.

    3. Safety feature. Assuming someone reaches in and tries to steal your keys while you're at a light, they cant? That's my best guess.

    4. Battery terminals can be bought at any auto parts or Canadian tire.
    Last edited by nelsonmxmarc; 08-26-2010, 12:13 PM.
    Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
    www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
    Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
    Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

    Comment


    • #3
      What you mentioned for idle issues is due to the AACV adjustment screw being improperly adjusted. Your car starts on cold maps, this means the solenoid opens to allow for a certain % of air to pass. Once the running maps commence, ~5-10 min in depending on temp, the solenoid closes and the AACV allows air to pass through its main idle adjustment port which is this screw.. This in conjunction with the TPS, mounted on the front of your intake plenum, directly on the side of your throttle body (black rectangular box), act to allow the car to run. They monitor air values through the ECU, then the ECU relays info back to gain the proper idle / air flow etc. If your TPS is improperly adjusted, it will also influence bad/rough idling conditions.

      There are DIY's on how to adjust the TPS. It's quite easy and can be done within 20 min time.

      Cleaning of the AACV is highly recommended. Changing the unit is costly.

      On the inside of that unit (left of the solenoid), there's an adjustment screw. With the car hot, adjust this until you reach the recommended idle ~950 RPM. If this doesnt work, and the unit is clean, adjust the TPS accordingly.
      Last edited by nelsonmxmarc; 08-26-2010, 12:12 PM.
      Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
      www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
      Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
      Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

      Comment


      • #4
        Those battery terminal look like they came off a lawn tractor lol get some new ones.
        Proud owner of the 2nd Skyline and the only GTR on the island!

        Boost@14PSI, YellowJacket Coils, Extreme TSC, Full Nismo N1 Bodykit, Greddy Speed Cut Controller, HKS Turbo Timer, 280LPH Denso Fuel Pump, Nismo Slave Cylinder, AMS BOVs, Nismo Clutch Pivot, ACT Xtreme 6 Puck and HDPP, Greddy Panel Filter

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        • #5
          AFAIK all manual cars have that button by the key.. Just some kind of safety feature?
          BNR32- Sold
          1998 Evolution V

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          • #6
            battery terminals have been replaced, not to sure about taking the aacv off and cleaning it. Mines got a load of caked on crap on the larger flathead screw.

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            • #7
              Supposed to. If you follow the "how to" it's super easy. Really. All you have to do is unplug and take those four bolts out then stand outside and empty a can of brake clean on the mofo And don't worry about the larger screw. It's the smaller screw directly below it you need to be turning to adjust the idle.
              -Josh

              1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
              1990 Skyline GTS-R

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              • #8
                Be careful of the gasket.. You might as well change it if you plan to remove the AACV. Very common Vac leak area which will just give you more headaches; cost is like 5$.. Dont use gasket maker, it may drip inside before hardening and gum it up again.
                Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
                www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
                Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
                Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  I cleaned my aacv out the other day. extremely easy. Use throttle body cleaner to clean it. Let dry. Then make a gasket from the cardboard create-a-gasket that you will have to trace and cut yourself.

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