RB25det. Oil filter relaction and Oil cooler, what is needed

[RHDskyline]

Ok.

So trust me, i understand that i have been making a lot of threads lately, but like a lot of us, we want to do something, and we want to do it right the first time.

So i found a good deal on an oil cooler and since my last oil change ive been wanting to relocate the filter.

So ive been reading a lot and such and i think i got it somewhat down, i just need some clarification


SO lets start at the beginning.

I need to get the oil out of the block

these are the options i see

Run this little guy in place of the stock Oil filter tree and stock oil cooler



after this i get a little confused.

The site tells me to run something like this



But that doesn't allow me to relocated my filter does it?, that just allows me to run a filter with an oil cooler



THIS IS WHAT I WANT, correct? This could be mounted anywhere and would allow me to run an oil cooler.

But how to i get the oil from the block to this.


If i had an sr20 i could just run this



Which mounts to the Block of the engine

Is there something like this out there for an rb25?


After i get that figured out i got the rest figured out. My only dilemna is what i just explained.

Please help

[Zacho]

Getting rid of stock "coolant warmer" is a great idea.

RB stud-->to this



Then to relocation-->core

Don't buy an oil cooler without a thermostat on a street driven car. Terrible idea

[RHDskyline]

Yeah. I know about the whole thermostat thing. Ive pretty much informed myself on everything but how to hook it all up.


That blitz kit is pricy seening as how i only want the block adapater part.


whats the thread pitch on that rb stud. I could just use a generic block adaper after that could i not?


Is there any other options besides that blitz one?

I apprciate all the help. i really do

[nelsonmxmarc]

Taken from my past mistake of using a godspeed kit, i have actually ended up changing everything except the cooler core (which is an older setrab core) and the mounting plates.. lol.

Filter thread pitch is 3/4 UNF-16

Your best bet is to build a kit. And i know it sounds rather difficult/pricey etc. but its rather the opposite.

Earls has adapter plates from the block to remote relocator with/without thermostats. I would look into that and build from the ground up. Once you have your remote plates you need adapters and fittings. These can be sourced from your autoparts or if you've turned into a bit of a sucker for sh*t quality, you'll turn to something expensive and right, the first time around - check out tuboquip.com / aeroquip.com - they're supplied parts by Eaton and are all aircraft certified, which makes them pricey, but bullet proof because aircraft parts have to meet pretty exceptional standards.

Greddy/grex/trust/blitz all use these fittings - thus why the kits are rather pricey..

So you've got your adapter plates - you want fittings/adapters. Look at -8 as a minimum but -10 seems to be the general consensus. The adapter plates are normally accomodate 3/8NPT (national pipe thread) fittings, which means if you need -10 adapter for your -10 fitting, you need a -10 to 3/8NPT adapter.
(side note.. 3/8npt is more of a -6, so -10 to -6 entrance is rather constrictive. IF i were to redo my kit AGAIN, i would go -8an)

You'll need line - 10 feet of stainless braided line is good. Rubber insert, teflon is for like 260 celsius and is super stiff, not a lot of fun to work with.

Good cores are easy to come by. You can get a setrab 10 row for like 75$ from them directly. Mocal is nice as well.. You can be cheap here though, most companies, like godspeed, have managed to get hold of earlier stock and have been using them, so coolers can be had cheap, and are equally efficient (Minus the new endtank designs which accompanies more oil, but for DD application you wont need that)..

9-19 row is solid - no worries about your oil pump not keeping up to par..


So to reiterate;
Adapters;

https://secure.demonweb.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=138_144_198&zenid=d656460c028ca09027a2a21feaa888cd

fittings;

https://secure.demonweb.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_3

Hose;

https://secure.demonweb.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=25

Remote plates;

https://secure.demonweb.co.uk/earls100/earls_shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14_195_197

Only thing missing there is a remote relocator but i couldnt find a URL.

Anyways, you can be cheap in 2 places - the remote plates and the core. The rest, save yourself the headache..

All my fittings leaked on my godspeed kit, it failed hard in the fitting department.. Went with aeronautical fittings, thing works like a charm!

Good luck

[RHDskyline]

A couple comments, questions and concerns.

now that i know the size of the thread pitch i can find some block adapters.

Get lines to run to the to the remote plate and then to the cooler and back

i already ordered a used oil cooler core

so once i find the rest of the stuff i need. it should be a go


question


how do you attach the ss lines to the earls fittings. ive tried to find places that explain it but i cant

[nelsonmxmarc]

I know eh?? Doesn't it seem effin complicated?? When i got my lines i was excited to find out how they work too loll

Lets use the simplest fitting as a description;

Straight -# fitting



You can see its comprised of 3 different sections.

The first (top left) is the coupler section that is wired locked onto the second and is what connects to the cooler or adaptor.

The second section is the middle portion, it holds the threads and a swedged tip. Basically when you pull it out, it has a long section with a smaller to gradually wider section (swadging/flaring) that plugs into the line to make it nice and snug.

Now the final section is the red part. This part slips over the braided line basically and crimps the line down on the swedge to hold it all in place.

Basically it just tightens the line around a larger bored fitting to hold it tight in place.. You'll see when you get them, they're very easy to work with an install..

[RHDskyline]

ooooh ok


that makes total sense now


cause when i was reading online about them before some places said to have them professionally installed and i was thinkin, come on, cant be that hard




thanks for all your help dude


im still on the lookout for a block adapter that will fit over that rb stud

[nelsonmxmarc]

Not a prob man!

Rb stud is common to most if not ALL japanese vehicles.. Heres a good guidelines;

http://prosportgauges.com/oil-filter-adaptor-plate.aspx

Same basic thing you need, but with sender/return lines.. Check most major autoparts retailers like Summit.. Guaranteed summit will have everything you're looking for, and for a great price. Good guys to deal with too

[RHDskyline]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-1113/

would something like that work

would those ends be AN -10 fittings cause it doesn't say

[nelsonmxmarc]

Its a completely different fitting end but in theory it would be fine. The outside diameter they say is 2.5".. so inside can't be less than 2, which is considerably more than -10.. might be a little overkill - remember summit mainly deals with muscle enthusiasts, this particular setup would probably be run on something like a big block drag car running a mopar 5.6 or something nuts..

Try to find something in a normal dash size, to save yourself the trouble

[RHDskyline]

Yeah. I wasn't sure the conversion on that


I'm trying to figure this all out now so come time to buy it all I can refer back to thus thread. And hope others can do the same

[Supraclean]

Yes great info here, thankyou for asking Rhdskyline :P. I am kinda in the same boat altho I already have a Grex oil filter relocation kit. I want to add a cooler, and had no idea how the fittings worked.
Marc is it? Awesome info man, top notch as usual.

[RHDskyline]

What did you use supraclean?

Or your just going to run the relocation kit and run a cooler off of it ?

[nelsonmxmarc]

Marc it is! Not a problem man. Honestly, i love responding to threads like this because i've gone through the same situations and in many circumstances i would have chosen a different route had i known. Like i said my godspeed kit failed on many levels, so i would have built a kit ground up..

Luckily for you, you just need a cooler, 5 feet of hose (to be safe) and 2 AN fittings and you're good to go!

[nelsonmxmarc]

Or your just going to run the relocation kit and run a cooler off of it ?

Its a pretty simple solution in his case. He has his sender plate on his block, it has an entrance and exit. exit from block goes to the entrance on the remote filter adapter, and the exit goes back to the block. If he wants to add a cooler, he's going to simply use the same block to adapter fittings, then from the exit on the remote filter, he's going to go to the cooler, and from the cooler back to the return entrance on the block.
Like i said, wont take much to get it working.